My 2005 with only 70,000 miles on it "wandered" on the grooved/wavy pavement of the interstates. On a recent 2000 mile trip, I got really tired of "chasing" the truck from one side of the lane to the other. It seemed that the steering was always "behind" when reacting to small road disturbances. This was true even after making the following upgrades:

- V, B springs installed. 3.5" tapered block on rear axle.
- Hellwig anti-roll bar installed on rear axle.
- New Michelin M/S2 tires installed (run at 70 psig).
- Alignment checked. Right in the "middle".
- New front end ball joints installed (Moog greasable).

I finally decided that it had to be the steering gear box. Based on many other reports here in the "Ex" and Super Duty forums, I purchased a "Red Head Steering Gear Box". The rebuilt steering gear shipped from Seattle to Tulsa in less than 4 days. I replaced the gear box on Saturday. It took me about 8 hours, mainly because I was having a "hack mechanic day". Should really have only required about 4 hours on the 6.0L.

I've now driven the truck about 50 miles with the new gear box. It does not wander or follow the dips or grooves on the road. Big expansion joints do not disturb the alignment. The truck drives pretty much as a truck should.

I have noticed that the steering requires slightly more effort all the time. There is a bit more friction. But...there is no free play in the steering wheel either. From what I can tell, however, it does return to center with minimal assistance.

So far, I am very happy that I finally decided to make this purchase. My total cost net after two-way shipping and return of the core will be $394. This is probably the best return on investment that I've made relative to controllability of the truck.

I will report back after our next big road trip or towing adventure.

 

I'd never seen anyone ever posting this before, after adding a red head box to their rig.

Good info to know for when I get around to this mod.

Thanks for posting!

Stewart

 

Good stuff. I have heard that Red Head makes quality stuff. How difficult was the install?? Anything special we need to know, or was it pretty much take apart and reinstall??

 

They are not that bad. You need about a 34mm socket, and a pitman arm puller. 3 bolts on the box, a few little bolts on the steering rod, detach the 2 lines. There are 2 different spline #s so be careful. I think 1 has 2 more splines on the shaft.

 

Doesn't sound too bad, thanks for the info - reps given.

 

Thanks, You can find the exact size of that socket with a search or maybe someone will chime in.

 

Pretty straight forward changeout, but it was an "off" day for me. Took me 8 hours of fooling around and making quite a mess on the floor. If I were to do it again, I would be prepared with two Tygon hoses--3/8" ID and 1/2" ID. These can be used to slip over the ends of power steering lines and prevent a big leak like I had.

I rented a pitman arm puller at Advance Auto for $0--be sure to get the "heavy duty" puller. My neighbor had an electric impact wrench. I had a 1-5/16" impact socket, which substituted for the 34 mm socket mentioned above. You will also need a torque wrench for up to 200 ft-lb. I also used red thread locker on pitman arm, steering rod pinch bolt, and 3 steering gear mount bolts.

Do not forget to order new power steering line O-rings. Only about $4 and $2 at Ford dealer, but they were not in stock Saturday. Even though I don't have any leaks, I may go ahead and make another mess on the floor to change them out. Old O-rings are never a good idea.

Surprisingly, one of the hardest things to do was to replace the CAC tube (between aftercooler and intake elbow). This large plastic tube on my 05 would not push on over the circular rib built into the intake elbow. I tried silicon lube and Armor-All. Nothing would allow me to push that pipe back on without some sort of leverage. I finally resorted to making a lever out of numerous short lengths of 2x4s and putting a bit more force behind it. It finally popped back on after about an hour of fooling with it.

Steering gear: $394 plus a Saturday.

Going down the road straight: Priceless.

 

There is a trick for your CAC tube. Cause it a plastic one its more of a press fit one. Use a long flat head screw driver and the engine I hook and press on the tube and it should pop right in!

 

i've been really debating this because my truck takes constant correction, i'm so used to it now when i drive my other trucks i'm all over the road because i forget i dont need to keep going back an forth with the wheel lol

glad it worked out well for you, would be interested in hearing your thoughts on it after you get more miles on it.

 

It may be a few weeks until I really drive it much. "Midas" is kind of a hangar queen. It is used for long distance hauls and towing duty. As soon as I get some time behind the wheel, I'll report back on my experience.

 

Did you try to adjust the box?

 

That usually doesn't work. If the box is wore it will then be too tight either way of center as the parts don't wear evenly from lock to lock.

 

yes and it did help some, took most of the slop out of it, but it still wanders.

 

Take your steering stabilizer off, push it in and out, and check for leaks in it too.

 

its new lol