Hello all!
I don't know if this is the correct forum, but...

I just got back from my getting my 1987 F350 (dually dump 460 4v with 4 speed manual transmission) Connecticut emissions scammed (oops, I mean "tested").

The good news, the gas cap PASSED!!! This has got to be the first time the cap "passed"... or the shop wasn't in the mood to sell me a new one...

The truck is running great, by the way...

So, I pull up to the dealership (closest testing place) at 8:00am. Park the truck and shut off the engine. Go in, they say it will be about an hour to get it tested. I ask about keeping the engine warmed up, they say don't worry.

In the waiting room there is a tv monitor that shows the work area... I keep my eye on it. 45 minutes after arriving (and the truck has been sitting shut off), they pull the truck in and begin testing. Two mechanics walk around shaking their heads -- YES, you have to use an exhaust probe, no computer connection. They start testing, and end up running the truck twice in "cruise mode".

Well, the truck ends up failing. It did pass HC on the cruise mode, with 53 out of 450, but failed CO with 2.55 with max being 1.60. Idle was HC 658 (max being 450), and CO 3.48 (max 1.60) at 1100 RPM (kinda high, I think the mechanic was trying to help it pass).

Again, I asked about whether testing when the engine was cold had anything to do with it, and they said no.

So, any suggestions? Connecticut has it set up now that if you do any repairs yourself or use a "non-certified" shop any costs related to repairs CANNOT be put toward a waiver. This obviously leans heavily towards having the testing shop do the work... hmmm....

I may just have the dealership do the work, as I know the mechanics there and they know I have some mechanical knowledge. Also, this may be the last time the truck needs to be tested, as in two years it should become exempt (25 years old, unless of course Connecticut changes that, as they have in the past - used to be 20 years old).

Just wondering if you all have any ideas, thoughts, or moral support. The truck is running beautifully, and right now I expect to keep it for many more years.

 

You could do the basics plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV, filters and look for any obvious issues (vacuum leaks etc). Don't forget to change the oil, then re-test it... I'm guessing the stealership will try to sell you a new Holley

 

Cold engine will affect emissions, especially if it had not been running long enough for the choke to come completely off. Choke not completely off would explain the 1100 RPM idle vs a normal in the 550-700 RPM range. If I were you I'd have the test run with the engine fully warmed up, make sure the choke compleltey opens, and retard the heck out of your timing. Like until the engine doesn't idle nice and smooth, runs like crap, has no power, heats up, etc. Open idle screw on carb a bit to return to normal idle RPM and test it.

 

Nope, not gonna fall for a new Holley! The original was rebuilt a few years ago, and as I said, the engine runs great.

Thanks for the responses...

With the dealership doing the testing, I have to call them and see if I can arrange an exact time for testing, so I can show up with a warmed up truck.

I will go over the "basics". I also have to thoroughly check for mouse nests... last month there was a nest down in the air filter intake tube, down by the radiator, kind of a pain to clean out. Would restricted air (say, from a partially blocking mouse nest) cause some of those high numbers?

 

I absolutely concur with the fact the truck was not up to operating temp!!!! If you want to just have a little extra confidence....stop by any speed shop or pep boys, etc.....pick up a bottle of "Heet"...8-12 oz iirr...it is 100% methanol and will "clean up" the emmissions and will have no effect on the tuning or drivability. used it many a time on my own!

 

It would if the mouse nest was in the air pump filter cannister on the passenger fenderwell.

I just LOVE CT Emissions.

BTW, 1100rpm is the high limit for idle.
Spinning the engine faster means that the carb butterfly's were cracked open and the A.I.R. pumps were trying their best to burn off CO in the exhaust manifolds.
(the mechanic WAS trying to help)