I had problems with one of the switches for the RT window a few months back. I checked the wires to the motor and found there was no voltage. Replaced the switch on the driver's door and it's back in business.

Then a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the window would not go back up again. Checked voltage and this time there was 12 V across the wires to the motor. So, I don't have a voltage problem. Pulled the motor and it works fine on the bench. Put it back in and it works fine - until it gets all the way down. When it bottoms out, it is as if something binds or jams or something and the motor won't push the window back up. In fact I pulled the screws holding the motor to the regulator and it is stuck in there solid. A smack with the end of a hammer handle and it pops out of the regulator. I pushed the window up just a tad, put the motor back in and it's working fine again.

Has anybody else had similar problems? I thought about a bad motor, but when I take it out, it's fine again. And it seems to have no problem with being weak when it's going up and down. So, I don't really want to put a new motor in and have it do the same thing.

Any ideas?

Dave

 

Window goes up & down OK w/ motor not hooked to regulator, right? Take motor off regulator, remove the cover where the gear is on motor, clean out all of the old grease & check nylon gear for excessive wear, if none re-grease w/ new stuff & re-assemble. Should work fine, sometimes the grease gets "hard" and doesn't do it's job any more.

 

Oops. Forgot to add that I did remove the motor and replaced the missing/broken plastic slugs and all. I cleaned out all the grease and little plastic bits. Reassembled with new grease and it runs smooth as can be. It also runs smooth until it gets all the way down. Then it's like it jams or gets stuck there. I can see the motor housing/regulator interface deflect as it hits the stop.

 

Only other things I can think of are the motors limit switch (if it has one) when it maxs out at top or bottom should stop motor so it doesn't "jamb", the regulator is off a tooth (but then you wouldn't go all the way up or all the way down), clocked the motor in wrong position, or lastly the window is binding in the tracks/frame of the door.

 

Well, I watched it for awhile after reassembling things and it worked, so I left it alone, but it's broken again. Still works after I "pop" it out of the regulator, so I'm thinking it must be something in the regulator binding. The drivers side doesn't do this. Too bad the motors aren't the same on either side. I am going to see if the motors in my parts car for the project car are the same and if they are, I'll try the one from it. I am baffled. AFAIK, there is no limit switch or breaker or anything. At least not that I've found. The motors in the seat of our minivan had breakers built in so that when they hit the end, the current rose and it opened up. Then after the breaker cooled (almost instantly) it closed and worked again. Anyway, the breakers got to where they did not close, so I hardwired the motors and installed self-resetting breakers under the seat. Worked great the rest of the time we owned that vehicle. Or, if I can get everybody (including myself) to remember not to roll that window down all the way...

Dave

 

Any luck figurin this out Dave ? I have the same issue with driver side window on my 87 f250. fixes itself temporarily when i remove and replace same motor. replaced with new motor and same problem. have voltage from switch when activated. the square part of the regulator that slides under the window channel broke off ( might have happened after issue started) and i just ordered this part to try to repair it 2 Ford Window Glass To Regulator Fastener Assemblies: eBay Motors (item 120596617009 end time Sep-08-10 15:05:28 PDT)
now the window is supported by the metal **** on the end of the regulator that goes inside the slider

 

No luck. In fact, the passenger side door panel has been off for a few months now. (Got tired of pulling it off to un-stick the window. I thought about the little bushing that rides in the channel. Can't see where it is causing it, but I suppose as it is a moving part, it could be. I was just this afternoon thinking about it more. Wondering if I pull the window and motor loose, if I could wiggle things around to find out what part has worn too much. I sure wish everybody had this problem. I'd probably have found the solution by now.

Dave

 

Well, this probably ain't gonna help you, but I had a similar problem with my 95 I got a month ago on the driver's side - but mine would stop at top or bottom. Cleaning and regreasing worked for a bit of time, but I wound up having to replace the motor. Everything is fine now and the Ford tech who replaced it couldn't tell what was wrong. Got my fingers crossed now 'cause I haven't had a working driver's window in my Chevy for 5 years so it's nice to have one.

 

I recommend you disassemble the motor and clean the contacts on the armature with sandpaper. Also make sure your brushes are not worn down to where they won't stay in the hole anymore.

 

In my case, I disassembled the gearbox and removed all the broken pieces of nylon and replaced them with new round nylon stock. In the process, I also removed the motor and cleaned it up. The motor always works fine on the bench. Maybe I need to pull the driver's door panel and see if the regulator seems to bind up the way the passenger side does.

Dave

 

I have the same problem on my 89 F250 passenger side as well. Here is what I found in looking at it. When the window bottoms out all the way (a hard stop) the little **** on the regulator arm the actually stops the window jams on the regulator mount...the raised piece of the regulator where the motor mounts. It is tough to describe it in detail, but since you have worked on it so much I'm sure you know what I am talking about. It rides up on the raised portion slightly and jams there. I greased the little **** and where it rides up to reduce friction and have not had a problem in the past couple months...but I am also very careful about that window and try to not let it bottom out lest I be caught in one of our frequent south Florida downpours.

A new regulator might solve the problem permanently as it would not be as worn and loose as or 21 year old regulators.

 

I'll have to look again on mine, as it's been a few weeks since I actually stuck my head in the door. (Figuratively, of course. I can barely fit my hand in comfortably.) I do recall a post that sticks out on one part that I suppose is a stop for the arm. It contacts the body of the regulator, as I recall. I'll have to actually see what it looks like again to refresh my memory about the area you mentioned.

BTW, I have found that a digital camera makes a great periscope. Just stick it where you want to see something from, take a pic, and then pull the camera out and look at it.

Dave

 

Oh, forgot, the new regulator would probably fix it, but this truck has almost 300k on it and I'm not wanting to pour a lot of money into it. The body needs a lot of work, the interior is 22 years old. It's really just a work truck to me now. Problem is, the damned thing still runs great. I don't even think the AOD has ever had anything done to it other than fluid and filter changes. I know nothing has happened to it in the past 190k.

Dave

 

Mine looks kind of rough, but I'm making it a little more hospitable so we can use it as a family fun rig...and the less quirks it has the more apt my wife will be to ride around in it. Luckily my 2 year old thinks riding in the truck is the greatest thing ever so it always gets her vote!

 

Well, I don't know any more now than I did before, but today when leaving the ATM, my driver's window wouldn't roll up. I don't recall having this problem on the driver's side in a long while. Luckily the weather was nice today. So, now I have neither door panel on. Same drill, though. Loosened the screws holding the motor to the regulator and pressed the motor away from the regulator body, just slightly, and the window rolled up. It does look like the "gear" on the regulator flexes a lot. I wonder if it isn't flexing too much and getting bound between the motor housing and ???. I'll try to look at it more this coming week, but may not have much time between running kids everywhere and working.

Dave