Converting a 1999 Ford E-250 into a camper van
#16
Rust on floor:
You have the factory rubber mat with the felt backing (3/4" thick).
That felt must go in a motorhome application as you accumulate too much moisture inside.
If you don't get rid of it and replace it with a non moisture absorbing material, that is going to be trouble long term.
I put down thick polyurethane, then installed pink fiberglass and the original rubber mat back, adding about 1/2" thichness of insulation.
Before you work on the inside, pressure wash the area in between the outer sheet metal and the inner body --- open the drain valves, there are at least 7 or so of them, from 1" round to smaller plugs, and flush like you are trying to rid everything.. huge amount of dirt accumulate there.
When you are done --- let it dry.. that area must be treated from the inside to deter rust.
You must close off all the holes, etc to the outer body before you add insulation... there must be a vapor barrier on all sides or the insulation will become water logged.
You have the factory rubber mat with the felt backing (3/4" thick).
That felt must go in a motorhome application as you accumulate too much moisture inside.
If you don't get rid of it and replace it with a non moisture absorbing material, that is going to be trouble long term.
I put down thick polyurethane, then installed pink fiberglass and the original rubber mat back, adding about 1/2" thichness of insulation.
Before you work on the inside, pressure wash the area in between the outer sheet metal and the inner body --- open the drain valves, there are at least 7 or so of them, from 1" round to smaller plugs, and flush like you are trying to rid everything.. huge amount of dirt accumulate there.
When you are done --- let it dry.. that area must be treated from the inside to deter rust.
You must close off all the holes, etc to the outer body before you add insulation... there must be a vapor barrier on all sides or the insulation will become water logged.
#18
Hi guys,
@YoGeorge,
I agree that for a couple of grand I could have gotten a better van. Problem is no one was selling one when I was buying. I live in a not very large town in West Virginia and the pickin's weren't just slim. They were nonexistent. I had to travel to the Pittsburgh area to find a van, 2+ hours away.
Even there all that was available was in the $1,000-3,000 range and $8,000-10,000 range. Nothing in the middle and I couldn't afford the higher range.
Even those kind of vans are scarce around here. Once I got it home a guy stopped by the house and asked me if I wanted to sell it. Wasn't a for sale sign or anything, he just needed a van. If I was quicker on my feet I would have asked what he was willing to pay.
There is a bright side with all the work I've had to do just getting to step one. I have a real hands on knowledge of just about every inch of this van.
@hrekaj,
Thanks. A lot of what I get wrong I don't mention so it looks like I know what I'm talking about. Actually it's a lot of trial and error.
@gearloose1,
Thanks for the advice. I did read your thread. These posts are playing catchup so it's too late for some of it. I know the drain plugs you are talking about. Never thought to clean them out.
I removed all the felt backed matting. The rubber matting I put down is non-absorbent, I hope.
A bunch more catch up posts to follow tomorrow.
@YoGeorge,
I agree that for a couple of grand I could have gotten a better van. Problem is no one was selling one when I was buying. I live in a not very large town in West Virginia and the pickin's weren't just slim. They were nonexistent. I had to travel to the Pittsburgh area to find a van, 2+ hours away.
Even there all that was available was in the $1,000-3,000 range and $8,000-10,000 range. Nothing in the middle and I couldn't afford the higher range.
Even those kind of vans are scarce around here. Once I got it home a guy stopped by the house and asked me if I wanted to sell it. Wasn't a for sale sign or anything, he just needed a van. If I was quicker on my feet I would have asked what he was willing to pay.
There is a bright side with all the work I've had to do just getting to step one. I have a real hands on knowledge of just about every inch of this van.
@hrekaj,
Thanks. A lot of what I get wrong I don't mention so it looks like I know what I'm talking about. Actually it's a lot of trial and error.
@gearloose1,
Thanks for the advice. I did read your thread. These posts are playing catchup so it's too late for some of it. I know the drain plugs you are talking about. Never thought to clean them out.
I removed all the felt backed matting. The rubber matting I put down is non-absorbent, I hope.
A bunch more catch up posts to follow tomorrow.
#19
@gearloose1,
Thanks for the advice. I did read your thread. These posts are playing catchup so it's too late for some of it. I know the drain plugs you are talking about. Never thought to clean them out.
I removed all the felt backed matting. The rubber matting I put down is non-absorbent, I hope.
A bunch more catch up posts to follow tomorrow.
Thanks for the advice. I did read your thread. These posts are playing catchup so it's too late for some of it. I know the drain plugs you are talking about. Never thought to clean them out.
I removed all the felt backed matting. The rubber matting I put down is non-absorbent, I hope.
A bunch more catch up posts to follow tomorrow.
It is not too late to remove the plugs and power wash in between the sheet metal --- so much salt and dirt in there (I had it there by the handfulls).
I scopped out as much of it as I can by hand, and pressured washed it out.
If you don't do this.. rust will be back stat.
Serious.. do it.
When you are done and dry... you have to either put some kind of anti rust in there (for the rust already started) or to oil it.
Leave a provision for future redo of oil.
You need insulation below the rubber mat.. or you are going to freeze your feet --- or boil in summer with heat from cat and exhaust.
#20
I cannot tell from your pics..
It is not fatal if you miss this, as it is easy to do later.
The rear spring shackles (check front too) is a known major rust spot.
Check it for structural integrity and replace (my advice is all 4) them as needed.
#21
Note:
Your truck is likely to have serious corrosion issues in "under the dash"
See my thread about rebuilding the dash --- complete disassembly, cleaning of dust, and lube with dielectric grease all bad contacts.
Also replace all dash bulbs, rebuild bulb base... etc.
Essential in a van that old.
Your truck is likely to have serious corrosion issues in "under the dash"
See my thread about rebuilding the dash --- complete disassembly, cleaning of dust, and lube with dielectric grease all bad contacts.
Also replace all dash bulbs, rebuild bulb base... etc.
Essential in a van that old.
#22
It is not too late to remove the plugs and power wash in between the sheet metal --- so much salt and dirt in there (I had it there by the handfulls).
I scopped out as much of it as I can by hand, and pressured washed it out.
If you don't do this.. rust will be back stat.
Serious.. do it.
When you are done and dry... you have to either put some kind of anti rust in there (for the rust already started) or to oil it.
Leave a provision for future redo of oil.
You need insulation below the rubber mat.. or you are going to freeze your feet --- or boil in summer with heat from cat and exhaust.
I scopped out as much of it as I can by hand, and pressured washed it out.
If you don't do this.. rust will be back stat.
Serious.. do it.
When you are done and dry... you have to either put some kind of anti rust in there (for the rust already started) or to oil it.
Leave a provision for future redo of oil.
You need insulation below the rubber mat.. or you are going to freeze your feet --- or boil in summer with heat from cat and exhaust.
George
#23
Hey Gearloose,
Just to be clear. We're talking about those plugs you can see if you're laying under the van. Like this one:
I didn't see a place big enough for my hand. Just these plugs.
Are these the shackles?
Will do.
Thanks,
Dave
It is not too late to remove the plugs and power wash in between the sheet metal --- so much salt and dirt in there (I had it there by the handfulls).
I didn't see a place big enough for my hand. Just these plugs.
The rear spring shackles (check front too) is a known major rust spot.
See my thread about rebuilding the dash
Thanks,
Dave
#24
Dumb question--are you talking about the inside of the rocker panels with plugs accessible from under the van? Namely can I clean out this crap in my 2002 van, or is the access thru the interior? Just wanted to confirm what you're talking about and would love to flush mine out.
George
George
George - the really dumb question is the question you thought was dumb and did not ask... and then it turned out to be really important.
Yes --- George.
Confirmed.
Believe me.. the amount of dirt in there... we are talking about fist fulls.
Same with side and rear doors.
If the truck was not fitted with a liner that covered it up... during its life, lots of crud (bottles, snacks, etc.) all end up there.
Get it completely out while you can.. and use a small camera to inspect the places you cannot reach.
#25
There are those big round ones as you show... there are smaller plugs as well.
Smaller ones are narrow, rectangular, and tend to be on the underside.
Note there are plugs along the entire side rocker panel, then there are plugs after the rear wheel.
Shackles (correction) I mean the thing that tie the shackle to the side of the frame.
It is the circular bolt on part right to the side of it --- in your above picture, they look OK from what we can see.
#27
Fords vans are a nightmare of bad electricals because the plugs in the interior are not marine grade.
So don't close up any wires or render them inaccessible.
You need to have provisions there for rewiring -- from the word go.
Also think same when you do your electricals.
I wired mine for 4 circuits.. 2 to way back (provisions for generator), and 2 going to side beside side door.
Also did 12V wire --- used a ribbon cable with about 6 conductors doubled up..
Be sure you have provisions for things like coax (if you need it for TV), and also ethernet (if you need it).
Audio cable.. optical cable.. etc.
So don't close up any wires or render them inaccessible.
You need to have provisions there for rewiring -- from the word go.
Also think same when you do your electricals.
I wired mine for 4 circuits.. 2 to way back (provisions for generator), and 2 going to side beside side door.
Also did 12V wire --- used a ribbon cable with about 6 conductors doubled up..
Be sure you have provisions for things like coax (if you need it for TV), and also ethernet (if you need it).
Audio cable.. optical cable.. etc.
#29
Immediate question:
What temperature are you operating this van in?
i.e. ambient temperature.
How much insulation are you putting in?
What ventilation? Powered?
What load do you expect from "hotel"?
What appliances are you running?
Are you charging batteries from Van engine as well?
Is alternator output enough?
Your plan do not show a generator.
How big are the house batteries?
Where are you keeping them?
What temperature are you operating this van in?
i.e. ambient temperature.
How much insulation are you putting in?
What ventilation? Powered?
What load do you expect from "hotel"?
What appliances are you running?
Are you charging batteries from Van engine as well?
Is alternator output enough?
Your plan do not show a generator.
How big are the house batteries?
Where are you keeping them?