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  #1  
Old 04-07-2010, 08:45 PM
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truck battery not charging?

tested from back of alternator to ground when running, 14 volts. tested batteries when not running, 12V. when i try to start it sounds like its got a very weak battery.. could this be the starter? anyone know whats going on?

this first happened when i was out fishing went to start my truck and i had to get a jump to start my truck.

did play music without truck running for about an hour....
anyone??/
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:56 PM
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my prob: i cant start truck without jumping it
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2010, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluescrew View Post
tested from back of alternator to ground when running, 14 volts. tested batteries when not running, 12V. when i try to start it sounds like its got a very weak battery.. could this be the starter? anyone know whats going on?

this first happened when i was out fishing went to start my truck and i had to get a jump to start my truck.

did play music without truck running for about an hour....
anyone??/
Do you need a jump every time? Or will it start right up after driving for a while?
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:59 PM
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aer cables clean and tight? that was a problem I had
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:05 PM
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yep just sanded them all down

i actually just got it started on its own without jumping it, after running it jumped for 10 mins.

i charged my batterys all day yesterday then went to start this morning and it would not start.

what else can i test?

14v off alternator while running
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:14 PM
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unhook batteries and put a load test on them, may have a bad cell
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  #7  
Old 04-07-2010, 09:29 PM
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how do i do a load test? i have a multimeter
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluescrew View Post
i charged my batterys all day yesterday then went to start this morning and it would not start.
In the morning, before you do anything, open the hood of the truck and feel your alternator. Is it the same temperature as the surrounding metal stuff... or is it "warm" (feel all around it)


Quote:
Originally Posted by bluescrew View Post
14v off alternator while running
How many volts are you reading at the + post on the battery? (grounded to the SAME place)

Is the acid level good on all the cells. (If not, I recommend purchasing some battery acid at the parts store to top them off. I know it's common practice to add water, but that isn't the best practice. The acid is cheap) Are the batteries "swollen?" Have you noticed dampness on the tops of the batteries, or was there visible corrosion before you cleaned them? Check the main engine grounds at the front of the engine. (especially on the passenger side) To find them, just follow the - wire. Just a couple of places to start.
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  #9  
Old 04-07-2010, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CPUNeck View Post
In the morning, before you do anything, open the hood of the truck and feel your alternator. Is it the same temperature as the surrounding metal stuff... or is it "warm" (feel all around it)
What would a warm alternator mean? I ask because I think I may have had this problem with my old alternator.
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:41 PM
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ok its running right now
got 13 v off alternator and positive side of battery
\
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2001 F350 CC SB XLT - 6637, 03 signal mirrors, c-betr mirrors, Gentex autodim temp/compass rear view mirror, (now rusty) tail light guards, 08 white tailgate mod, superduty windshield, RR plenum boots + inserts, WW, IH uppipes, keypad entry, raider canopy, various body rust and dent mods, 2 different style headlight mod, 4" MBRP turbo back straight pipe.. no emissions crap!
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluescrew View Post
ok its running right now
got 13 v off alternator and positive side of battery
\
Talking electricity, anytime there is "heat" energy is being "used" (like a light bulb) If you Alt. is warm, your "leaking" electricity... probably from one of the diodes on the rectifier/regulator assembly. Not field serviceable, probably time for an alternator. At least you could pull the Alt. off and carry it to O'Rileys or Napa for testing to confirm. (I don't use stores that start with an "A")

When you say 13v is that 13.00v? If so, that's to low (unless you have a bad cell in one of your batteries.) 13.9v OK.
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  #12  
Old 04-07-2010, 11:54 PM
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excellent information!!! will check both exact voltage and temp of alt in the morning and get back to you

thank you very much!
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:15 AM
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I had same issue. Cleaned cables and had alt tested 3 times in a row to make sure (changed terminals and unplugged wireharness to tester every time to see if it was a fluke).
I replaced he batterys and same issue starting.
Changed starter and fixed the issue. Starter is quick and easy to swap. It took 30 min in the parkinglot. (did all this in parts store parkinglot...I even replaced the idler pullys)
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:27 AM
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I've been fiddling with the same problem, slow crank (cold) for three or four seconds then click-click nothing. Put the charger on (6amp) 30 minutes cranks right up and cranks all day and tomorrow just fine. If it sits 36 hrs or so, back to crank-crank -click -click.
Hpop level ok, batteries 12.v cold indv., running 14.6v.
In last month replaced GPR, all GP's, positive battery cable (thats alotta cable) and one neg.terminal clamp. Cleaned up all the rest. Finished day before yesterday.
49* cranked up just a wee bit slow but fired up. guess I need th starter draw checked.
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:37 AM
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Since this happened to me, I'll pass it on. Check the positive cable end at the starter. Does it look like it has been hot or burned? I had put on a new starter which helped for a few weeks when the problem returned. When I was replacing the starter again, the cable end fell off. Took the cable to the parts store to have a new end put on and the truck has been starting fine ever since. Once the copper has been overheated, it seems to not have the continuity that it needs to work properly. Just another place to look.
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:37 AM
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