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  #1  
Old 04-01-2010, 01:48 PM
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Clutch Master Cylinder Now with pics!

Howdy ya'll,
Clutch went bang an shot to the floor in a busy intersection yesterday. After getting towed home along with my tool trailer, I went in search of the issue. Lo and behold, its the plastic end on the pushrod to the master cylinder. I have been looking at different places and calling about prices. The local dealership wants 170.00(not in stock), a not so local dealership wants 155.00. Napa and others want around 55.00 to 65.00 bucks for theirs. This concludes givin' ya'll the skinny. What do those of ya, 'in the know', think about this?

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=30992
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=30994
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=30990

Update: I bought the NAPA one and it appears the electrical connection doesn't fit onto the new one. I guess its off the not-so-local-dealership.

Last edited by diesel_daze_ray; 04-01-2010 at 07:58 PM. Reason: No response Circumstances changed
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:20 PM
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That is exactly what happend to me about a month ago. Here's the bad news. Just replacing the rod most likely wont be an option. I could not for the life of me remove mine. I had to buy a new clutch master cylinder. Wait, it gets better, someone redesinged the clutch master so that the hose you have will not connect to your new clutch master. Now you have to buy a new hose as well. Since I was replacing the master and the hose I got a new slave cylinder as well so that everything would be new. Dont get your parts from the dealership, I got everything I needed from Schucks/O'reilly's for a lot cheaper.

Here is the new CMC next to the old one.
Click the image to open in full size.

The neutral safety switch fit on the unit I got from Schucks.
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1993 F-250 HD XLT Lariat SC 4X4 7.3/5spd ATS WG turbo @ 12psi, 3" DP 4" straight exhaust, 5" stacks, Hypermax cowl induction with inline filter, IP up 3 flats, DPS stage 1 injectors, GPR LED mod, SMF conversion, coolant filter, catch can, Pyro/Boost gauges.
1986 F-250HD XLT Lariat 4X4 6.9/T19, soup bowl mod, straight pipe.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:20 PM
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the switch threw me off. i managed to look into it farther and the guys at napa found me the right one, down tube and all. it was listed under an f350. the first one i got had the line coming straight out.

it kills me when i need answers quick, fast and ina hurry, when i know everyone is at work and i should be too. i don't make much money sitting at home.
as it turns out the master is leaking at the firewall, so it was on its way anyhoo.
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:54 AM
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Wow, you got lucky. I had people searching high and low trying to find an old style CMC, I even went to ford to ask them what the deal was. Thats when they told me about the redesign and why I couldn't find the CMC I wanted.

Make sure you bench bleed your new CMC, I have found that just installing it and trying to pump the pedal doesn't always work. The pedal may not travel far enough to get it going.
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1993 F-250 HD XLT Lariat SC 4X4 7.3/5spd ATS WG turbo @ 12psi, 3" DP 4" straight exhaust, 5" stacks, Hypermax cowl induction with inline filter, IP up 3 flats, DPS stage 1 injectors, GPR LED mod, SMF conversion, coolant filter, catch can, Pyro/Boost gauges.
1986 F-250HD XLT Lariat 4X4 6.9/T19, soup bowl mod, straight pipe.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:56 PM
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Don't waste to much time bench bleeding these things. If you can get it in gear, go for a drive on a rough road. The bumps will work up all the air bobles out of it, then just add fluid and your good.
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1989 Ford F150 300-6, C6, 2.73, 152,000km/95,000 miles.
1987 Ford E350 26ft. Motorhome, N/A 6.9L Diesel, C6, 3.54, 289,000km/180,000 miles.
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Old 04-03-2010, 12:38 AM
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If you get one made from metal, fill it up and pump all the fluid out.

I do this on both clutch and brake master cylinders now.

If you catch the fluid in a clean container, you may be surprised at what you catch in it.

I have seen over 1/4" of metal shavings in a coffee cup from a brake master cylinder.
Wonder whay the seals wear out so fast?
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:15 PM
Craig1967 Craig1967 is offline
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Thumbs up CLutch Master CYlinder

I have this same problem. 1993 F350 dually and clutch went to floor. I just bought a new CMC for $38 at Oreilly's. Came with pushrod and retainer rod as well. Going out to change it.

I don't understand how it connects to the pedal. Instructions in rebuild manual say to "pry" it loose.

I did see a youtube video on a fix a guy did for that plastic retainer on the end oft he pushrod. I have to admit it looks junk.

Wish me luck. Will be back in shortly to see what it has turned out as

Craig-
Montrose, IA
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:39 PM
Craig1967 Craig1967 is offline
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Doggoneit!

It's the slave cylinder. Can see fluid leaking out. Not looking forward to pulling this tranny by myself.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:19 PM
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pulling the trans to fix the slave? why?
just pop it off the bracket. I sourced most of my clutch parts from autozone. IIRC they had the old style stuff and that was as of about a year ago. i justhad to go to the junk yard for the hose.
Rob
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:14 PM
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Yeah, none of the IDIs have an internal slave, no matter what transmission they have behind them.

The slave just clips onto the bell housing.

A word on bleeding the system:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...l#post13279495
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Old 08-17-2013, 11:35 PM
Craig1967 Craig1967 is offline
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hmmmmm

Wow, the book I bought today, as well as the Oreilly's guy, says you have to pull the tranny because the slave cylinder is around the shaft. Not sure what IDI means. Anyone want to explain it.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:28 AM
Craig1967 Craig1967 is offline
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engine

my f350 has a 302 Modified in it with a 5-speed. You guys sure it doesn't have internal slave cylinder?
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:25 AM
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You are in the wrong forum then, this is the 6.9 & 7.3 IDI Diesel forum.

The forum for lil' putt putts is over here:


Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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1986 F-250 Lariat Ex-Cab 4x2 6.9 IDI C6
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:25 AM
 
 
 
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