Wandering issue - power steering related?
#1
Wandering issue - power steering related?
My truck has the classic front end wandering issue, and its been driving me nuts.
I drove my neighbor's Chevy 2500 today for comparison.
It requries pretty constant steering input as well, but its very effortless.
Could it be that my power steering is not working properly?
I drove my neighbor's Chevy 2500 today for comparison.
It requries pretty constant steering input as well, but its very effortless.
Could it be that my power steering is not working properly?
#2
Your wandering issue could be the result of several issues.
Alignment, worn or improperly inflated Tires, shocks, trackbar bushings, balljoints, tierods etc..
I would do a thorough inspection of the front-end and if nothing comes up have a "quality" alignment shop check it out.
Does the steering "pulse" when turning the wheel stop-to stop? if the fluid doesn't smell burnt and belt is tight it should be ok. Also check the pitman arm for wear.
Alignment, worn or improperly inflated Tires, shocks, trackbar bushings, balljoints, tierods etc..
I would do a thorough inspection of the front-end and if nothing comes up have a "quality" alignment shop check it out.
Does the steering "pulse" when turning the wheel stop-to stop? if the fluid doesn't smell burnt and belt is tight it should be ok. Also check the pitman arm for wear.
#3
Your wandering issue could be the result of several issues.
Alignment, worn or improperly inflated Tires, shocks, trackbar bushings, balljoints, tierods etc..
I would do a thorough inspection of the front-end and if nothing comes up have a "quality" alignment shop check it out.
Does the steering "pulse" when turning the wheel stop-to stop? if the fluid doesn't smell burnt and belt is tight it should be ok. Also check the pitman arm for wear.
Alignment, worn or improperly inflated Tires, shocks, trackbar bushings, balljoints, tierods etc..
I would do a thorough inspection of the front-end and if nothing comes up have a "quality" alignment shop check it out.
Does the steering "pulse" when turning the wheel stop-to stop? if the fluid doesn't smell burnt and belt is tight it should be ok. Also check the pitman arm for wear.
Jusdt had the random thought that perhaps its due to the power steering as it appears to take so much more effort to correct than my friends Chevy.
I don't know if it pulses, but will check.
#4
Hi im having the same problems as you done all the same on the front. cant keep truck inline on the road rough or smooth surface. Had tie bars replaced. ford tell me there is nothing wrong. Some f350s they have seen worse. So im fitting a double shock on the steering see if this helps ford dont seem to want to do anything about it. Only have 130,000 km on a 2005 king ranch f350 anybody got any idears would be great.As i said ford say there is nothing wrong with my truck HELP please this is driving my around the bend no pun intended.....
#5
I have a bit of a wandering problem, but i KNOW it is due to the stearing gear box. I replaced it with a "remanufactured" unit from the local autozone and it is actually worse than the old one.
If i have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth, i can see the input shaft turn quite a bit before the pitman arm starts to move. The adjustment nut did nothing... That is my problem at least. My point is, just because you replaced it doesn't mean its not still the problem.
Get someone to turn the wheel back and forth for you while you lay under the truck and try to see if anything has play or slop in it.
If i have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth, i can see the input shaft turn quite a bit before the pitman arm starts to move. The adjustment nut did nothing... That is my problem at least. My point is, just because you replaced it doesn't mean its not still the problem.
Get someone to turn the wheel back and forth for you while you lay under the truck and try to see if anything has play or slop in it.
#6
I had the wandering problem bad a while back. Replaced all 4 tie rods (anything with a heim joint), all 4 ball joints (and hubs too) and a new steering damper. The wandering is far less, but still present. Everything seems tight but not while I'm driving. All that's left is the steering gear box. Many have said that a Redhead steering gearbox (Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home) solved their problem. Once I build the repair budget up enough or convince the wife it's bad enough, I'll be getting the Redhead (and a new pitman arm while I'm in there). If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll just live with it.
#7
I have the same problem on my (new to me 6months now) 08.. with new OEM steering box.. shocks, and stablizer.
going for a couple new front tires later today as I have some out of round condition (Discount tire and NTB tell me)..
I've seen feedback from others with the Red Head gearboxes that are amazed at how nice it is... so this is on my list too.
Sam
going for a couple new front tires later today as I have some out of round condition (Discount tire and NTB tell me)..
I've seen feedback from others with the Red Head gearboxes that are amazed at how nice it is... so this is on my list too.
Sam
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#8
#10
I don't exactly remember, and it probably depends on the year of your truck, and shipping costs, and wether or not you will send your steering gear back for a core. But call Harvey at 1-800-808-1148 he is exceptionally nice, and will even talk you through why most rebuilds suck, and how he rebuilds them to higher tolerances... He will give you a quote over the phone.
#11
I had the wandering problem bad a while back. Replaced all 4 tie rods (anything with a heim joint), all 4 ball joints (and hubs too) and a new steering damper. The wandering is far less, but still present. Everything seems tight but not while I'm driving. All that's left is the steering gear box. Many have said that a Redhead steering gearbox (Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home) solved their problem. Once I build the repair budget up enough or convince the wife it's bad enough, I'll be getting the Redhead (and a new pitman arm while I'm in there). If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll just live with it.
Did you carefully check or replace the track bar bushings? Any slop there will let the axle move side to side, effectively turning the front wheels.
#12
My cost, almost a year ago, was $305 (plus deposit of $100, plus shipping of new box, plus shipping of old box). This was for a 36 spline box. Most SD's have a 32 spline which is slightly less. See my sig for a link to my write-up.
+1. I replaced my track bar bushing with ones from Energy Suspension. Easy to do as long as you have a press to get the old bushings out and a can get enough muscle to get the bolts off and reinstalled to the proper torque (129 ft-lbs for 1999, 2000-2002 is 369 ft-lbs, 2003-2004 is 406 ft-lbs).
+1. I replaced my track bar bushing with ones from Energy Suspension. Easy to do as long as you have a press to get the old bushings out and a can get enough muscle to get the bolts off and reinstalled to the proper torque (129 ft-lbs for 1999, 2000-2002 is 369 ft-lbs, 2003-2004 is 406 ft-lbs).
#13
+1. I replaced my track bar bushing with ones from Energy Suspension. Easy to do as long as you have a press to get the old bushings out and a can get enough muscle to get the bolts off and reinstalled to the proper torque (129 ft-lbs for 1999, 2000-2002 is 369 ft-lbs, 2003-2004 is 406 ft-lbs).
I did not replace the bushing, but I did have to drop the track bar to replace my front springs (busted a leaf off-roading a while back). The 406 lb-ft wasn't as hard as just getting the track bar lined up to put the bolt back in! Everything seemed good at the time so I haven't given it any thought. Since I've got 197K on the original rubber bushing, I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to retire it soon. Thanks for the info as I would not have connected the dots between the track bar and wandering. Reps to you!
#14
Well, don't cheap out like i did and get the "autozone special" gearbox. I might as well have set fire to 5 fifty dollar bills in my driveway.
I am convinced their re-manufacturing process involves repainting it black and sticking it back on the shelf with a price tag.
I am convinced their re-manufacturing process involves repainting it black and sticking it back on the shelf with a price tag.
What makes the Red Head that much better? I'd hate to have burned my $200 and go spend another $300, but probably would if something convinced me that it would solve my problem.
#15
Well I can't make you any guarantee but it made a huge difference in my truck and this was after rebuilding almost the whole front end (drag link, tie rods, track bar bushing, sway bar and end link bushing, axle u-joints, ball joints, wheel hub, locking hubs). The Red Head steering boxes are hand rebuilt. The owner Harvey specs each part for each box to make the tolerances as tight as possible. There is no mass deassembly and then reassembly with the same parts with his steering boxes. Each box wears differently so they need different parts to get them back into spec. Anyway I suggest you call Red Head up and talk to Harvey. He's a nice guy and will talk to you about how he rebuilds his steering boxes.
As a side note I do have a slight near center memory steer issue that I have an idea given to me on how to resolve it. I'm still trying to rent or find a tool I need to complete the job before I tear into it.
As a side note I do have a slight near center memory steer issue that I have an idea given to me on how to resolve it. I'm still trying to rent or find a tool I need to complete the job before I tear into it.