Ok....

Pulled in my brothers driveway and shut the truck off. Helped him load his jeep (he's moving) and then started the ford and moved it to be loaded. Went to leave and it wouldn't start.....no crank. Had all gauges, lights, etc.
Crossed the silonoid with pliers and she fired right up.

Grabbed a new silonoid from NAPA and installed....still no crank.

Got out the test light and tested the blue & red stripe (colors maybe wrong, don't quote me here) wire that runs to the ignition. No power when key in "crank/start" position.....went back to NAPA this morning and got the "ignition start switch" that goes on the coloumn under the dash. Got that in, adjusted and tried again....

NOTHING.....

Now, I did notice my aftermarket voltage gauge pegs zero when the key is turned to "start/crank" position.....not sure if it did this before this problem or not. When in "run" position, shows just slightly over 12v like normal. Can't find any breaks in the "ignition" wire to the silonoid.....and not sure if there's a fuseable link somewhere I can't find

Any ideas here? Maybe the "neutral" switch? If so, where would I find it on the C6 trans?

I did install a momentary "on" push-button switch for the time being though as the truck was blocking my driveway, preventing the "warden" from getting her car out. I turn the key to "run" and push the button and she fires right up, all gauges show normal.....

Any ideas?????

 

The ign switch (under the dash) is connected to the key switch by a rod. Have you checked that the key switch is moving the rod the full distance? There is a pot metal actuator between the key switch and the rod which can break.

 

On the C6, the NSS is loacted on the driver side of the transmission, where the shift linkage connects. The NSS also controls your reverse lights.

 

Lazy K: Yep, checked that after I replaced the silonoid on the fenderwall and still no go. Chevy uses the same rod/switch setup on the 73-87 pickups, and have had that problem with them before

Thanx for the location of the NSS.....wonder if it is bad, as when I bought the truck the reverse lights didn't work at all and all wiring/sockets/bulbs looked really good. Alot better than the rest of the wiring actually LMAO

 

can the NSS be eliminated?

Mines got 4 wires....I assume 2 are for the reverse light circuit and 2 are for the NSS side....

 

I purchased a brand new NSS that died withing 2 weeks of putting it in. I just bypassed the switch with a splice so now it starts in any gear. After that my ignition switch slid out of whack, so then I added the obligatory push button start to the dash. No mare cranking issues.

 

I think the 2 light blue/red wires are the one you splice together to bypass the NSS. Thats what I did on my 85 when I ditched the C6 and put in the ZF.

 

thanx sycostang