wow, that is weird.

 

All LCD devices will do that if they get hot. If I have to park in direct sunlight for extended period of time I have a shop towel under my seat I throw on the gauge. Keeps it out of direct sunlight and works good. Had to do the same thing with hands free cell phones too.

 

I can understand that about heat and LCD's. What got me going is that it would not even turn on, no red flashing lights.

 

so you could hook up an EGT probe directly to the scan gage?
I saw 206 today. made me start thinkin about an auxiliary oil cooler

 

Jack, those temps are nothing. I had a thread running about aux oil coolers and it didn't get much attention. I was told our oil is good until 260* before it breaks down. I talked about a aux oil cooler and was told I didn't need it. Even Bob Reily at Dieselsite told me that the oil is suppose to be hot or you will ruin your mpg. I put one on anyway.

 

ok thanks oldbird! This scangauge is starting to earn it's keep in my rig. I have been able to test my injectors with the CCT and buzz tests really important since I just rebuilt 'em as stage ones recently. i am getting good data that helps me monitor the condition of my engine and that is important to me.
What about the pyrometer application with an analog input? Anybody do this?

 

Jacksfirstdiesel,

I have the EGT probe set on my analog 1 position. It seems to work fine, the temps are inline with my past PSD's so accuracy looks good. Wiring it up was no problem, just need a 12v ignition hot and a ground to hook it all up.

Rusty

 

Rusty, did you purchase the Interceptor EGT kit or from another vendor?

 

Well at least I could do some work with the scan, I report later what I found and some questions, but now I want to ask somebody here that I got some codes:

just with the scan:
PO236 = turbocharger boost sensor A circuit, range or performance problem.
PO344 = CPS sensor A circuit intermittent (bank 1)

With the CCT:
P1298 = IDM failure
with the Buzz test
P1111

Please learn me about this, in my basic knowledge and common sense, seems that I have a bad MAP sensor, bad CPS sensor and a bad IDM, but it could be for the IDM mod? and the code for the buzz test is OK. any ideas?

One more question: should I clear the codes now or wait to do it?

 

Jose, I would clear the codes. They could be old codes stored in the PCM. After you drive it and if they come back then you can dig into it. The CCT test requires the engine be fully warmed up (hot), above 180 degrees I think. Otherwise it will fail the test. I doubt your IDM is bad if you can drive it.

PS: I tried the "INVERT" option as Glenn mentioned and the display is much easier to see during the day in bright sunlight. It's a green background with black characters.

Doing my taxes this weekend ...

 

ouch!!!!!!

 

I failed with 180 temps on new injectors. Drive it like you stole it then do cct.

 

Jim,
OK, Ill clear the codes and see what happens. I did the CCT with the engine hot, but not sure if above 180*. Ill try later the INVERT option, thanks for the tip (how does it looks like at night?).

William,
What was the failure with 180*? any codes? or what? and with what temps did you "pass" the CCT?.

 

I like the "INVERT" at night. It matches the odometer display which is a green background with black characters.

 

OK, I got that.
BTW I forgot to mention that I realized that all the work with the scan gauge was made with the CHIP in the economy position, I dont know if it does matter or not and it should be done in the STOCK position?.