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  #31  
Old 06-11-2010, 12:54 PM
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i got mine from the dealer it cost my dad 52$. ill try to get a pic today if i can
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  #32  
Old 08-10-2010, 01:46 PM
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Other than the vibration, how would one know if your carrier bearing is bad? Should it have any play in it if you try to lift or move it?
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  #33  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:21 AM
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I'd be interesed in an answer to the above question as well.
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  #34  
Old 08-15-2010, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trucky2 View Post
Other than the vibration, how would one know if your carrier bearing is bad? Should it have any play in it if you try to lift or move it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsmall07 View Post
I'd be interesed in an answer to the above question as well.
You can look to see if you have grease running out from the bearing.this means its been getting hot.You can grab the drive shaft and give it a push,pull and see if it moves.Just not the rubber moving but the shaft in the bearing.

Also you could remove the driveshaft and the spin the bearing by hand and feel if it is hard to turn or if it sounds rough when spun.

Hope this helps guys.
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  #35  
Old 08-15-2010, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the answer. I figured that was the case. A mechanic said mine is bad, but I get no vibration and when I jerk it round, I get deflection in the rubber but nothing else.
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  #36  
Old 05-08-2012, 12:49 PM
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I think this bearing is causing the CRAZY LOUD whining/roaring I hear when on the throttle at exactly 30mph and up.

After I change it I will let you guys know if it solved the issue.
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  #37  
Old 05-08-2012, 04:54 PM
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TSB: DRIVE-AWAY SHUDDER OR VIBRATION

There is a TSB for this vibration....in which they tell you to add shims to the center support. Sheez.

TSB 06-23-4
12/06/06
DRIVE-AWAY SHUDDER OR VIBRATION
FORD:
1999-2007 F-Super Duty

This article supersedes TSB 05-17-6 to update the vehicle model years.
ISSUE
Some 1999-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit excessive drive-away shudder or vibration, under moderate to heavy acceleration from a stop. This may be due to driveline angle.

ACTION
Shim the center carrier bracket downward to correct the condition. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
When shimming the center carrier bracket, a maximum of three (3) 1/4" shims may be used (EOTZ-4A209-A). When refastening the carrier bracket use bolt (56564-S2). A 7/16 x 14 grade 5 bolt may be substituted providing that it extends at least three (3) threads past the nut. Use Motorcraft® Threadlock 262, and torque bolts to 46 lb-ft (62 N.m).
NOTE IF THE VEHICLE IS NORMALLY LOADED, ROAD TESTS WILL NEED TO BE PERFORMED WITH THE VEHICLE LOADED.

1.Before beginning the repair, road test the vehicle to gain a feel for the harshness of the shudder/vibration.
2.Install one (1) shim, (DO NOT use threadlock on the bolts at this point), re-road test vehicle.
a.If condition is corrected, apply threadlock and torque bolts as directed above.
b.If condition is not corrected, re-perform step 2 (to a maximum of three (3) shims) and reevaluate vehicle.
NOTE IF THE CONDITION IS STILL NOT CORRECTED AFTER INSTALLING A MAXIMUM OF THREE (3) SHIMS, REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL SECTION 205-00 FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS.

Click the image to open in full size.

Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME062304A 1999-2007 F-Super Duty: 1.2 Hrs. Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim And Road Test To Verify Repair (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) (Do Not Use With 4602A, 4602A4F)062304B 1999-2007 F-Super Duty: 1.7 Hrs. Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim And Road Test To Verify Repair Condition Still Exists, Install A Second Shim And Road Test (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) (Do Not Use With 4602A, 4602A4F)062304C 1999-2007 F-Super Duty: 2.2 Hrs. Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim, And Road Test To Verify Repair Condition Still Exists, Install A Second Shim And Road Test Condition Still Exists Install A Third Shim And Road Test (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) (Do Not Use With 4602A, 4602A4F)
DEALER CODING

CONDITIONBASIC PART NO. CODE4A209 42
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  #38  
Old 05-08-2012, 04:55 PM
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TSB: NOISE - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING NOISE

And a TSB for squeel....lil piggy.

NOISE - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING NOISE

Article No.
03-22-2

11/10/03
^NOISE - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING NOISE -
VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 6/1/2002
^DRIVESHAFT - DRIVESHAFT CENTER BEARING
NOISE - VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 6/1/2002
FORD:
2002-2003 F SUPER DUTY

ISSUE
Some 2002-2003 Super Duty F-Series vehicles built after 06/01/2002, with a multi-piece driveshaft may exhibit a squeaking and/or squealing noise from the center bearing while driving. This noise is produced when the bearing seal rotates in the bearing outer race.
ACTION
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


To service, replace the center bearing. Use a center bearing assembly with a white paint dot (built after 6/9/2003). Determine the style of the driveshaft per (Figure 1) and (Figure 2), then follow the appropriate Service Procedure below.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE WHENEVER DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL IS NECESSARY, IT IS IMPORTANT TO PAINT MARK THE DRIVESHAFT TO THE TRANSMISSION (OR TRANSFER CASE) AND THE REAR AXLE. ADDITIONALLY, MARK A PAINT LINE THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE MULTI-PIECE DRIVESHAFT ASSEMBLY. THIS IS ESSENTIAL TO INSURE THE DRIVESHAFTS ARE REASSEMBLED IN THE SAME ORIENTATION AS ORIGINAL. FAILURE TO REASSEMBLE THE DRIVESHAFT IN ITS ORIGINAL ORIENTATION MAY RESULT IN AN UNBALANCED DRIVESHAFT CONDITION.

PROCEDURE FOR DRIVESHAFTS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE 1
1.Remove the boot clamps from the rubber boot and discard.
2.Disassemble the driveshaft from the coupling shaft.
3.Remove and discard the retention slinger, center bearing assembly, and dust slinger from coupling shaft.
4.Install the new dust slinger and center bearing assembly per Ford Workshop Manual.
NOTE DRIVESHAFTS OF THE TYPE SHOWN IN (FIGURE 1) REQUIRE THE INSTALLATION OF THE RETENTION SLINGER PROVIDED IN THE SERVICE KIT TO RETAIN THE CENTER BEARING TO THE COUPLING SHAFT.

5.Reassemble rubber boot and boot clamp to stub shaft and crimp the boot clamp.
6.Slide the other boot clamp onto the slip yoke of the driveshaft assembly, then assemble the driveshaft to the coupling shaft. BE SURE TO ALIGN THE PAINT LINE MARKS FOR PROPER ORIENTATION. Align the rubber boot with the slip yoke boot groove. Clamp boot clamp while the boot is in the relaxed position.
7.Reinstall the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle per the Ford Workshop Manual.
8.Drive the vehicle 10 miles at different speeds with the driver's side window down to verify that the noise condition is corrected.

PROCEDURE FOR DRIVESHAFTS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE 2
1.Remove and discard bearing strap bolts and remove and discard bearing straps.
2.Remove and discard the end yoke retaining nut.
3.Remove end yoke from the coupling shaft assembly. BE SURE THE END YOKE IS PAINT MARKED FOR PROPER REINSTALLATION.
4.Inspect end yoke for any damage to lug ears and/or hub splines. Save the end yoke for reuse.
5.Remove and discard both the center bearing assembly and dust slinger.
6.Install the new dust slinger and center bearing assembly per Ford Workshop Manual.
7.Reassemble the end yoke to the splined shaft. BE SURE TO ALIGN THE PAINT LINE MARKS FOR PROPER ORIENTATION.
8.Install the new End Yoke Nut (F81Z-4819-AA) and torque to 407 N.m (300 lb-ft).
9.Install the driveshaft assembly to the coupling shaft connecting the u-joint to the end yoke. THIS WILL TYPICALLY BE A TIGHT FIT AND MAY REQUIRE SOME EFFORT TO SEAT THE U-JOINT INTO THE END YOKE. BE SURE THE PAINT-LINE BETWEEN THE TWO SHAFTS ALIGN WITH EACH OTHER.
10.Secure the U-joint to the yoke using the bearing straps and bearing strap bolts:
a.For F250/350 applications use Bearing Strap (E4HZ-4A254-B) and Torque Fasteners (F81Z-4N272-M) to 34-41 N.m (25-30 lb-ft).
b.For F450/550 applications use Bearing Strap (E4HZ-4A254-A) and Torque Fasteners (F1HZ-4N272-A) to 61-81 N.m (45-60 lb-ft).
11.Reinstall the driveshaft assembly per the Ford Workshop Manual.
12.Drive the vehicle 10 miles at different speeds with the driver's side window down and verify the noise condition is corrected.

Click the image to open in full size.

Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
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  #39  
Old 05-09-2012, 11:38 AM
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1 and 5/16 = 33mm, I do believe.
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  #40  
Old 05-12-2012, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for adding all the info to this post!

This will help anyone who's is looking for help with a carrier bearing issue.

Reps sent.
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  #41  
Old 06-17-2012, 03:15 PM
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Can this be done without removing the drive shaft? In other words, just disconnecting the end nearest the carrier bearing and then putting a torque wrench on the 33mm bolt holding the center support bearing in place?

I assume this wouldnt damage anything?
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  #42  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:20 PM
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i got a vibration also but only at about 30-35 mph.if i step on it or let off and slow down it goes away.great write up i plan on doing mine real soon along with universals while its apart.no sense in tearing it apart again.to grease slip joint,once you cut off metal bands will zip ties hold the rubber boot back on?
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  #43  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lex2002 View Post
Can this be done without removing the drive shaft? In other words, just disconnecting the end nearest the carrier bearing and then putting a torque wrench on the 33mm bolt holding the center support bearing in place?

I assume this wouldnt damage anything?
Ignore this question....its easier to take that section of drive shaft off completely in order to wack the center support bearing off.
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  #44  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:51 AM
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Guess thats why I'm on my third carrier bearing, I think, I lost count. Not only do I need to shim at stock height, but now I got 4 inch rear blocks and defintly need to do this. Brad, not sure what the heck I was talking about on my previous post, 2 years ago, disregard my post, was problibly half shot that nite...
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  #45  
Old 06-21-2012, 03:12 PM
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BTW, I have been shopping around for the center support + bearing for my XLT for some weeks now....and after visits to Advance, Autozone, Pepboys and another independent store, I found that NONE of them carry the correct bearing. NAPA is the only one, and it costs exactly the same price as Ford charges.

So while some guys on the forum have bought replacements for $25 (timken etc)....I have learned that this part varies hugely by transmission shaft length (?) and even trim (?). My XLT shortbed, crew cab with 4x4 automatic requires the most expensive center support bearing. NAPA, ROCK AUTO, EBAY or DEALER, all in the $95-120 range.

FORD part F81Z4800FA
Some aftermarket companies use part number 804100FA
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Old 06-21-2012, 03:12 PM
 
 
 
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