I HAVE ALWAYS JUST USED SHORT STRAIGHT ZERK AND BOUGHT A 90 DEGREE ADAPTER FOR MY GREASE GUN. MOST PART STORES STOCK THE ADAPTER AND IT WORKS GREAT. IF U USE THE 90 DEGREE ZERK AND IT GETS BROKEN OFF IN THE BALL JOINT, YOUR SCREWED.

 

I ground off the slightest bit off the top of the zerk housing (pretty much just rounded the top out a bit). I've had no problems over the last 15K, and I off-road a lot in 4wd. Zerks are still there and as greasable as ever...

 

Resurrection of an oldie here, I know. I'm getting ready to do the balljoints on my 04 F250 and was game-planning for the grease zerk dillema. I didn't see it noted anywhere, although I'm sure someone has realized, but the 90' zerks that were supplied with my moog balljoints, are two pieces. They were loc-tited togather but if you take a 9/32 socket to the actual zerk portion of the 90' joint, you can wrench it off there. It then can be used as a flush mount zerk on the upper balljoint. Just thought I'd add to this thread, as I see a lot of people grinding on theirs.

 

I have the MOOG upper and lower ball joints and have the 90* zerk installed that was provided.

Yes it looks like it might rub and chances are " like mine " it might just a touch but not enough to break it off. I have had mine installed for a long time now and run my 4x4 often and they are still intact.

I thought they would get snapped off upon install but i was wrong. Throw them in and with a pry bar up against the axel housing pry up on the axel/u-joint "incase your bearings / seals are bad " and spin the u-joint. I did this and mine barley touched. If yours do the same ..... RUN IT

GOOD LUCK

 

Does anyone know the size of the Moog zerk fittings to order new ones? I ground the 90 degree ones to fit in my upper ball joints originally but have recently developed some play in the right front axle (another project) and it has snapped off the zerk. I want to get a couple of caps to put in there now but don't have them any more.