E-brake will be standard rear axle, cable operated. Rear end is out of 90s F350. 10.25 with drum brakes, chassis came with disc brakes on the Dana 80 but.... can't seem to find a disc setup I like for the 10.25 so will have to settle for drums.
So, after finding a rebuilt case and a rear fuel tank, I'm down to needing things like driveshafts and case shifter (I'd rather have the electric shift), makes for a cleaner install and really, if I NEED to pull the hammer on the case I'm probably gonna be somewhere I shouldn't have been. The fuel tank started out as a F-superduty ONLY item, but I found a 350-CnC that has the same tank... I dunno anymore.
No better solution to finishing off the shopping list than to buy a 91 F-350 CnC. I'm sick of searching, I've read at least 50-60 threads in the last couple days about swapping the CnC rear diff into my srw truck.... heard everything from it's way wider to it's the narrowest of the axles offered. Last I saw was the CnC is 1" per side wider. Whatever, it's rebuilt, and has the 4.10 LS that I'm looking for, my srw is just a 4.10 open but it needs a full brake replace.... junk. As far as the pad width and stuff? It actually fits my frame better and won't matter cause I'm smacking the stock pads off with a hammer anyways.
Get a 350 case for a spare, spare 42 ZF tranny, which is what it is, my 47 is rebuilt and if I blow it up, a spare anything will do. Also has front locking hubs where mine has autos. Bunch of random stuff will cross over and the rest is beer money.
F-superduty and c&c should have same frame width. Brad will hopefully chime in.
The c&c axle is the same width as the srw, but spring perches are narrower because c&c frame is narrower. 2wd dually has a wider rear axle, but same frame width as srw and same spring perch width.
A c&c tank should fit in your truck.
As far as transfer case shifter, I've installed a cable shift before. I made my own lever for the transfer case, then mounted an old push/pull plow cable under the dash because the guy "didn't want the clutter on the floor" and I think also he said "I'll be da mnd if I cut a hole in my brand new carpet". It actually worked pretty well.
Got it running on Sunday, little grumpy from sitting but could have been worse. 2- 31 series batteries with 4/0 wire should be enough lol. Little tough to get it around corners tho. Got a few ground cables to run to the frame and body yet, tie stuff down and mount the radiator bottle thingy, heater hoses and figure an intake/air filter out and... underhood should be about done.
Interior.... still gotta stuff the dash in place, going to get it roughly where it'll stay and just fiberglass around it to look good. Tie up a bunch of wires under the dash, find some bucket seats, replace the crappy brown back seat, POR-15 the floor, rig up the old ignition to run the new wiring, replace my stereo since I figured out it'll USB but not CD.... gonna need better interior lighting, some kind of baby seat restraint system, and gotta find one of those green flakey shifter *****.
Found rear fuel tank, looking to push truck out of garage this weekend, pull box and hopefully toss some paint on it, throw the tank in while the box is off, throw coolant in the engine and run it for a while, basically stink up the neighborhood.
Just spent an hour searching for info on this, and all I can find are guys that want to do it, then a bunch of guys telling them why they wouldn't. Was in the middle of taking the old motor out of my 1979 Crewcab 4x4 on a 1974 frame to put a 97 powerstroke back in BUT... my frame isn't worth working with (many reasons) and finding another around here won't happen so.....
The diesel donor truck is a 97 F-Superduty (96 body style with 10 bolt wheels) cab and chassis 2wd. I've figured since the diesel is at home there, the body swap will be the better way to go. The axles would be getting swapped out, that's not my issue. However, what I am looking for is info from people who have actually done a similar swap. I know I will be making all new body mounts. What problems did you run into that might save a guy some time and effort? What did you do that you would do again differently?
Please... not looking for reasons I should put a Cummins in or whatever, just looking for info that will help or save time.
That swap is not that difficult providing you can turn a wrench fabricate and are good with electronics
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