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Maual primer on fuel pump?

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  #31  
Old 07-17-2010, 04:44 PM
Rick Wallace Rick Wallace is offline
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Ok,,Ill redo it when I get to that point..Thanks
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  #32  
Old 07-17-2010, 06:55 PM
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cmsteppe Otahyoni86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marianna2003 View Post
At the bottom of Post#8 that's the one I recommend.
See? I knew i heard that somewhere...
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  #33  
Old 07-17-2010, 08:55 PM
Marianna2003 Marianna2003 is offline
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These pumps only draw 3-4 amps. The electronics energizes a coil that pulls the plunge against a spring allowing fuel to flow through the hollow plunger. the valve in the end of the plunger then closes sand the spring pushes the fuel out of the pump. If they are deadheaded, the plunger will try to cycle but it can't move leaving the electronics uneffected. Running them dry could damage them since the plunger will cycle without lubrication or cooling.

The switch from Summit is a 3 prong, 3-5 psi switch. It has a common and anormally open and a normally closed contact. GM uses them on their EFI engines for the idiot light and fuel, pump control. A junkyard item if you're short on cash.

If you are concerned about saving power by removing the MFP, it only uses about 0.0004 HP to pump 0.1GPM at 7 PSI. The electric will take about 0.06 HP to do the same job. Just a thought!

As I've said before, you don't have to eliminate the MFP. If you mount the EP between the MFP and the EP you will not push fuel into the crankcase.

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Old 07-18-2010, 06:40 PM
daman_55 daman_55 is offline
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I have mines wired in to the fuel shut off plug in .
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  #35  
Old 08-12-2010, 10:11 AM
n2ohatch n2ohatch is offline
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do you leave the electric pump running all the time of just to prime the IP at start up??
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  #36  
Old 08-12-2010, 11:56 AM
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I just hit mine when starting up and run it only until the motor catches, then turn it off - only 15 seconds or so seems to do the trick.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:43 PM
tailgateresponseunit tailgateresponseunit is offline
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Back from the dead

I am looking to complete a setup similar to that in post #8 on my e350 with a 7.3 idi that has had air intrusion issues since I purchased it.

I will be the first to admit that I don't know the 1st thing about working on a diesel motor...with that ignorance, I am trying to get some input on what the line which is now connected to the auxiliary pump in post 8 was originally leading to. Any help is much appreciated.
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  #38  
Old 08-19-2014, 07:50 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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I still don't see why not just put a check-valve on the intake side of your water separator... it solves all these problems without adding another electronic/electric piece to fail.
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  #39  
Old 08-19-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macrobb View Post
I still don't see why not just put a check-valve on the intake side of your water separator... it solves all these problems without adding another electronic/electric piece to fail.

Can you give us a picture of where you put yours. I bought a primer bulb but I'm unsure where to put it.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:21 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozdatman View Post
Can you give us a picture of where you put yours. I bought a primer bulb but I'm unsure where to put it.
http://robbiethe1st.afraid.org/image...140723_006.jpg
The rubber hose comes from the mechanical fuel pump, through that squeeze-bulb, and then into the intake of the separator.
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  #41  
Old 08-20-2014, 01:05 AM
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Cheers for the pic.
So you got rid of your metal line altogether?
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:39 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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Originally Posted by ozdatman View Post
Cheers for the pic.
So you got rid of your metal line altogether?
Either that, or just whack it down near the pump and use that end as a fitting -- slip it into hose.
I'm actually not sure on this rig; it was already converted to rubber hose by the PO; I just added the squeeze-bulb.
I've replaced the other side with rubber as well, actually(filter to IP), but that's very recently.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:39 PM
 
 
 
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