These pumps only draw 3-4 amps. The electronics energizes a coil that pulls the plunge against a spring allowing fuel to flow through the hollow plunger. the valve in the end of the plunger then closes sand the spring pushes the fuel out of the pump. If they are deadheaded, the plunger will try to cycle but it can't move leaving the electronics uneffected. Running them dry could damage them since the plunger will cycle without lubrication or cooling.
The switch from Summit is a 3 prong, 3-5 psi switch. It has a common and anormally open and a normally closed contact. GM uses them on their EFI engines for the idiot light and fuel, pump control. A junkyard item if you're short on cash.
If you are concerned about saving power by removing the MFP, it only uses about 0.0004 HP to pump 0.1GPM at 7 PSI. The electric will take about 0.06 HP to do the same job. Just a thought!
As I've said before, you don't have to eliminate the MFP. If you mount the EP between the MFP and the EP you will not push fuel into the crankcase.
I am looking to complete a setup similar to that in post #8 on my e350 with a 7.3 idi that has had air intrusion issues since I purchased it.
I will be the first to admit that I don't know the 1st thing about working on a diesel motor...with that ignorance, I am trying to get some input on what the line which is now connected to the auxiliary pump in post 8 was originally leading to. Any help is much appreciated.
Cheers for the pic.
So you got rid of your metal line altogether?
Either that, or just whack it down near the pump and use that end as a fitting -- slip it into hose.
I'm actually not sure on this rig; it was already converted to rubber hose by the PO; I just added the squeeze-bulb.
I've replaced the other side with rubber as well, actually(filter to IP), but that's very recently.
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