Hello, we make out own bio diesel. I ran this stuff 100% in my 7.3 for about a year before I got rid of it with no problems. Just put a bunch in my 6.0 yesterday.

Whats the big deal about the bio diesel in 6.0s? Anyone who knows anything about properly made bio knows how oily it is so I would think it would be better for the fuel system, as long as you arent running it below about 40 F (dont know how I got away with it in the 7.3 at about 10 F). Just a little worried after doing a search about it and seeing that Ford doesnt warranty it if its over 5 percent?

Someone help me on this one. I have never had a problem with bio. All I did was change my fuel filters and filter it down after its made. Out bio is clear as apple juice. I will say that it kills mileage though...

 

Do you monitor your fuel prssure?

What is your frequency for fluid and filter changes (oil and fuel)?

 

I ran Bio in my 6.0l with no problem. have a hard time getting it now. I was using 5 gal of bio per fill up.

 

Hell thats all we have here in Illinois, I hate that stuff.

 

I have only had it for about 10000 miles so far. I was thinking 5,000 for the oil and 10,000 or every other oil change for the fuel filters?

 

I've been running Bio for a few years and around 45k. The 6.0 is much more dependent on fuel quality than the 7.3. Fuel psi at the injectors is much higher. I just installed a fuel pressure gauge and I think it is a must when running on Bio. You do not want to get lower than 45 psi or the injectors will go south. I average around 56 psi and when hauling a trailer up hill I will get down to 48 psi. If it gets any lower then time to change the fuel filters. I generally like to have a 10 deg margin of error. So If it will get down to the high 30s then I want to make sure I have at least 20% D#2 in the tank. The cold filter plug point of the fuel I use is 28 deg. When in the cold of the winter I run B50 with no problems and that is down to the low 20"s. Just yesterday I filled up with b100. I can just feel that the bad weather is behind us. I keep a few 5 gallon containers full of k1 kerosene at home just in case it decides to get cold on me. I loose around 8% of my hp and around 1 1/2 mpg less. I am still on the fence on whether to get a tuner to bring the performance back up. My warranty is up in another few months so I don't want to loose what I have left just in case something happens. I keep a spare filter and tools in the truck just in case I need to do an emergency filter change. The motor will change. The sound gets really quiet. The biggest issue I have is my hunger. The exhaust smells like fried chicken.

 

Fried chicken ehh?? I'm getting hungry....lol

 

Hmm I hope the spartan can read that. So why are you saying watch the psi. Your only referring to when it is cold correct? i know after you first start running it to watch out cause it cleans the system, but I have seen what it does when it is really cold. It looks like clean bacon grease after its cooled off. I wont run it unless it is ATLEAST 40 degrees from now on.

Hey tazo, do you make yours? We keep getting what looks like animal fat settling in the bottom of our 40 gal batches. Is this normal? We let it sit for days after the mixing to let the glycerin settle, but still getting a white substance on the bottom of the barrel. That to me looks like it could clog a filter.

 

I'd say you're OK with that, but no more. What % bio are you running? I run B10 year round. Make sure you use the right filters, no will-fits in case you didn't know. Syn 5-40 is a big hit here, I run Rotella from Wallyworld, @$20/gal

 

A little bit about bio. If you have a steel tank it will eat the lining. also when running bio fuel you will need to change oil every 3k miles do to the fact the cj4 oil cant handle the ash load.
other then that it should run ok as long as its not jelling and tunring back in to lard.

 

I've heard a few guys running bio who use a bypass oil filter to cut down on the ash load; what's your thought there?

 

Need to watch the psi for a couple of reasons. First bio is a bit thicker than dino diesel and can be hard on the fuel pump. So when towing and running her hard I like to make sure the pump can keep up. I have had her down to 45 psi going up a hill once and all I needed to do was let off the throttle a bit. Second is in the mornings when first starting if the psi is really low the fuel is gelled. Third is it will tell me when the filters need to be changed. I generally change my fuel filters around the same time as the oil just to be safe every 5k. I have had oil checked by Blackstone and all is good. They actually told me I could go 6k on the oil.

I do not make my bio. I don't have the time or energy to do it between my family and business. So I can't help you with the is and outs of making bio.
National Biodiesel Board - www.biodiesel.org - www.nbb.org
Utah Biodiesel Supply - Biodiesel Homebrewing Supplies, Equipment, Processors and Information
Here is a couple of places for some good reading.

 

I have a plastic tank so all should be good. The one drawback of a plastic tank is I cannot use a pad heater to heat the fuel in the winter.
I use a synthetic oil. Rottella. Do you think that it should be changed every 3k? It sure is great to have tech's on board.

 

My 6.0 loved B20. Unfortunately, the place where I was getting it only sells B5 now. I don't think any truck post ULSD will have much of an issue with loosening up deposits in the gas tank. My fuel filter is also generally absent of any impurities. YMMV.