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Rear Main Seal is Leaking

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Old 03-24-2010, 02:28 PM
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Rear Main Seal is Leaking

I had some small oil leak & I found out that my rear main seal is leaking on the V10.
Has anyone had this problem? Is it expensive to fix? from what I understand you have to drop the tranny to get to it.
Geez
I had 2 technicians, 1 of them a ford tech take a look at it and they both said it was the rear main seal.
Its leaking slowly, and when idling in park you can smell the burning oil because it drips directly on the exhaust.
 
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:14 PM
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I just had my rear main seal repaired under the diesel warrenty. Service tech said it would have cost me about $2300 had it not been under the PSD warrenty and I had to pay for it myself.

They had to pull the engine out of the truck. Tranny, radiator, engine, fans, etc...they all came out.

I went to the dealer to check on it before they were done putting it all back together and about died when I saw the tranny and all the other parts out of the truck. Not an easy feeling.

That was two weeks ago. I have been driving the truck a lot to make sure it all works right. Everything seems fine thank goodness.

Good luck with that...
 
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Old 03-24-2010, 11:22 PM
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You might want to just forget about it. When I was a mechanic all the engines just required dropping the pan, rear main cap, sliping a new seal in the top and bottom part and button it back up.
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:20 AM
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Since the rear main is a complete circle pressed in at the rear of the block, the transmission clearly has to be removed or engine removed:
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by OutlawNomad
I had some small oil leak & I found out that my rear main seal is leaking on the V10.
Has anyone had this problem? Is it expensive to fix? from what I understand you have to drop the tranny to get to it.
Geez
I had 2 technicians, 1 of them a ford tech take a look at it and they both said it was the rear main seal.
Its leaking slowly, and when idling in park you can smell the burning oil because it drips directly on the exhaust.
I had to change the rear main on my '05 F250. It's not a bad job-I pulled the trans so I could tear it down far enough to change the crappy low/reverse snap ring, so I changed that rear main while I had it out. Pulling the trans is the easiest method by far.
Leaky rear mains are not common on modulars-this one had just been mishandled when it was originally installed,but it took 50K miles to show that it was damaged on initial install.
JL

 
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:49 AM
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Dam.
I just bought the truck from a reputable dealer and it had a 60 day power train warranty, so they are going to foot the bill I just have to find a good trans shop to get it done.
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:01 AM
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That's good you have a warranty, hope they don't give you a hard time about it.

Good Luck.
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cbradford
That's good you have a warranty, hope they don't give you a hard time about it.

Good Luck.
So far so good, they asked me to find a shop & get them an estimate.
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:13 AM
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I will make one recommendation....
Use this rear main seal. It's the best you can get, and will ensure that you're not back in there redoing this later on after your 60 day warranty is up.
JL
Rear Main Seal Set by Felpro - Part BS40644 - Advance Auto Parts
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:36 AM
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Thanks Johnny
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:26 PM
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The 1 piece seal is clearly a better seal but at the expense of pulling the tranny. That might be easier than dropping the oil pan though. We used to drop the engine pan, rear main cap, pull the top part out and thread another one through with a wire tool that worked like one of those Chinese finger grabbers. It was only fabric with some kind of low friction coating on it. Ditto fror the bottom one. No wonder mine doesn't leak! I think a lot of extended heat would be the only enemy of the round seal.
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 05:31 PM
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Dam,
What should I expect to pay for this labor? I know the seals like 30 bucks but the labor should be like 5 - 6 hours?
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
The 1 piece seal is clearly a better seal but at the expense of pulling the tranny. That might be easier than dropping the oil pan though. We used to drop the engine pan, rear main cap, pull the top part out and thread another one through with a wire tool that worked like one of those Chinese finger grabbers. It was only fabric with some kind of low friction coating on it. Ditto fror the bottom one. No wonder mine doesn't leak! I think a lot of extended heat would be the only enemy of the round seal.
The trans MUST come out. The OEM seal is a one-piece,as ALL modulars have been from the beginning. These engines aren't designed like dinosaur pushrod Windsors from the 60's.
JL
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Langton
The trans MUST come out. The OEM seal is a one-piece,as ALL modulars have been from the beginning. These engines aren't designed like dinosaur pushrod Windsors from the 60's.
JL
I never said it didn't come out if you would READ.
 
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I never said it didn't come out if you would READ.
You reply clearly confused Outlaw......and if one is not familiar with these engines,or how the rear mains are made would be confused in thinking that the OEM seals are still 2 piece with a one-piece available as a replacement-they might think that pulling the pan would be an option.
JL
 


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