steering shaft & flange question
#1
steering shaft & flange question
Hi all.
I'm probably going to have to replace my rag joint (it's got some slop in it) BUT looking at the flange that joins it at the bottom of the steering shaft, the flange looks bent up. Isn't that flange supposed to sit flat against the rag joint? (the picture in the exploded view from the master parts catalog looks flat)
If I need to replace the shaft & flange (catalog seems to show this as 1 piece) any suggestion as to where I can get one?
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Judi
66 F100 2wd
I'm probably going to have to replace my rag joint (it's got some slop in it) BUT looking at the flange that joins it at the bottom of the steering shaft, the flange looks bent up. Isn't that flange supposed to sit flat against the rag joint? (the picture in the exploded view from the master parts catalog looks flat)
If I need to replace the shaft & flange (catalog seems to show this as 1 piece) any suggestion as to where I can get one?
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Judi
66 F100 2wd
#2
Check your cab mounts. It is common for the cab to sag even with sound metal cab supports as the rubber compresses over time. If your truck has rotted cab supports, it is even worse.
The sagging shortens the distance between the steering column and the steering box, which is mounted to the frame.
The rag joint ends up taking all the pressure and bends downward under the pressure from the steering column.
Check it out, and see if that isn't the case.
The sagging shortens the distance between the steering column and the steering box, which is mounted to the frame.
The rag joint ends up taking all the pressure and bends downward under the pressure from the steering column.
Check it out, and see if that isn't the case.
#3
The cab mount rubber isn't rotted. The metal around the cab mounts isn't rotted. How else do you check them? (ie what do I measure?)
It isn't the rag joint that's bent, it's the flange on the end of the shaft that looks bent.
I will try to get a picture to post and maybe that will help with the diagnosis....
Thanks for the answer!
It isn't the rag joint that's bent, it's the flange on the end of the shaft that looks bent.
I will try to get a picture to post and maybe that will help with the diagnosis....
Thanks for the answer!
#4
The cab mount rubber isn't rotted. The metal around the cab mounts isn't rotted. How else do you check them? (ie what do I measure?)
It isn't the rag joint that's bent, it's the flange on the end of the shaft that looks bent.
I will try to get a picture to post and maybe that will help with the diagnosis....
Thanks for the answer!
It isn't the rag joint that's bent, it's the flange on the end of the shaft that looks bent.
I will try to get a picture to post and maybe that will help with the diagnosis....
Thanks for the answer!
As long as you don't go radical you can apply some real pressure without causing damage.
As John has suggested there may be metal rot there that you are not aware of.
John
#6
John,
Any particular point to set the jack? (center, each corner, in between the front corners, then the back corners, side to side?)
Banjopicker,
I really have to get that picture to post. Pretty sure mine is smiling not frowning. I'm guessing it would take a lot to bend that piece upwards, yes?
Any particular point to set the jack? (center, each corner, in between the front corners, then the back corners, side to side?)
Banjopicker,
I really have to get that picture to post. Pretty sure mine is smiling not frowning. I'm guessing it would take a lot to bend that piece upwards, yes?
#7
Judi, your ol boy is smiling cause he knows you will be rubbing on him some more.
Just get the jack set up as close as you can to the cab mount. With the 2 by between the floor & jack it will spread the impack area and you will be able to apply some good pressure without bending. The front end is on springs so don't get alarmed by the chassis raising.
John
Just get the jack set up as close as you can to the cab mount. With the 2 by between the floor & jack it will spread the impack area and you will be able to apply some good pressure without bending. The front end is on springs so don't get alarmed by the chassis raising.
John
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#8
In reply to your first question, the rubber part of the rag joint is available at Autozone in their 'help' section.
Runs about $7. and comes with bolts, etc.
In re-reading your post, I wanted to comment that the rag joint acts like a U-joint. Seems like it would be nearly impossible to bend one flange or the other due to sag of the cab. The flanges don't touch, and are bolted 90 degrees apart thru the rubber. Additionally, each is isolated and cushioned by the rubber joint. As pointed out earlier, each flange is cupped, which further helps to isolate them.
If I remember correctly, the bottom flange (on my power steering box) wasn't even a full flange. Looked like a bow tie. (No, not the Chebbie kind!)
Maybe I am missing something. The picture would help.
Runs about $7. and comes with bolts, etc.
In re-reading your post, I wanted to comment that the rag joint acts like a U-joint. Seems like it would be nearly impossible to bend one flange or the other due to sag of the cab. The flanges don't touch, and are bolted 90 degrees apart thru the rubber. Additionally, each is isolated and cushioned by the rubber joint. As pointed out earlier, each flange is cupped, which further helps to isolate them.
If I remember correctly, the bottom flange (on my power steering box) wasn't even a full flange. Looked like a bow tie. (No, not the Chebbie kind!)
Maybe I am missing something. The picture would help.
#10
Pic looks normal for a 45 year old truck. However, the bright shiny spots on the metal 'nubs' at the rag joint do indicate the rubber may be allowing too much movement and the steering shaft flange is contacting the 'nub' when the wheel is turned and causing those marks by metal-to-metal contact.
Good news is: metal flange at bottom of steering shaft is NOT bent! They were made that way.
If you have any slop there, replace the rubber part. Before you do, remember there also may be play in the steering box or steering linkage that may also feel to you like steering slop.
Have a friend turn the wheel back and forth while you watch under the hood and you should be able to trace down where the slop is. There will be a small amount of play in the steering box, though, as this is normal.
Good news is: metal flange at bottom of steering shaft is NOT bent! They were made that way.
If you have any slop there, replace the rubber part. Before you do, remember there also may be play in the steering box or steering linkage that may also feel to you like steering slop.
Have a friend turn the wheel back and forth while you watch under the hood and you should be able to trace down where the slop is. There will be a small amount of play in the steering box, though, as this is normal.
#11
I concur with Old Harley and would add that I think the shiny spot plus the wrinkle in the rubber joint indicates cab sag.
You will find it helpful to loosen the steering column and pull it up into the cab to change out the rag joint. When you reposition the steering column, check to see if the wear/scratch marks indicate it is sitting up a bit higher in the cab than before. This will likely be most noticeable at the 2 bolts under the dash.
If you find this to be the case, it will confirm that your cab is sagging.
You will find it helpful to loosen the steering column and pull it up into the cab to change out the rag joint. When you reposition the steering column, check to see if the wear/scratch marks indicate it is sitting up a bit higher in the cab than before. This will likely be most noticeable at the 2 bolts under the dash.
If you find this to be the case, it will confirm that your cab is sagging.
#12
#15
I would also try and adjust the steering box. Don't have the proper term for the bolt/nut adjuster on top of the box; lossen the nut and turn the bolt to take some of the slop in the wheel after rpelacing the rag joint. They (Rag joint) (In side the engine bay without taking the coulmn out) can be remove with a box end 1/2" wrench; usually need to use a pry bar ( screw driver) to hold tention against the joint when removing old rag.
Heck I've driven some with worse wear than the one in the pic's; but once its breaks while driving its a 3 ring circus act to handle then.
Easy to replace now; a nighmare if breaks while driving. (DANGER DANGER DANGER)
Mitch
Heck I've driven some with worse wear than the one in the pic's; but once its breaks while driving its a 3 ring circus act to handle then.
Easy to replace now; a nighmare if breaks while driving. (DANGER DANGER DANGER)
Mitch