Valve spring shims work great for this....

 

I didn't know of a better place to ask about this upgrade for a dent. I'm getting ready to do this on my dad's '75. Is there any other way to make it work than either buying the PA Performance regulator or ? His cluster has just the light in it that says "ALT". I would like to clean up the wiring and the stock regulator if I could. Suggestions?

 

The PA Performance regulator is only needed if you want to keep the ammeter gauge. Otherwise, the 3G swap will delete the stock regulator and much of its spaghetti of wiring. I shortened mine up to clean up the engine bay.

 

So it's not necessary if you just have the idiot light?

 

Would this swap work with a 300"6? My buddies keep giving me hell to swap to a 8cyl but this 300 run like "a top" removed all smog and all but 2 vacuum lines I have caught the dent side fever!

 

It shouldn't be any different than the v8 swaps...

 

I didn't think so wanna do the alt and electric fan swap thanks for input

 

Personally, I'm not a fan of electric fans on these trucks. Or any trucks for that matter. The reliability and durability suffers IMO.

Plus the fans take away power to run other things like winches, off-road lights, trailers. Anything else electrical.

 

This is another of those upgrades I plan on doing if ever the OEM quits, it's only 105K miles old, and 27 years young.

 

I only did it because I managed to toast my OE unit after rebuilding it. Dropped a wrench in shorted it out big time.

Glad I did though, amps to spare and clean wiring!

 

Then it's time for dual batteries.

 

Or dual alternators...

Josh

 

If you're running that kind of stuff, then you've already got an alternator that can handle the additional load of an electric fan. If you don't have one, you should.

 

Well I don't have a winch, but I would like to a have more lights and I do have a good trailer plug.

 

I just recently found the threads about the 3G upgrade (yes, living under a rock) and now in my book the 3G is a must. Heck the factory charging system was insufficient to run the headlights and heater at the same time in town let alone throw anything else in the mix.

A number of years ago I had dual electric fans on my 74 w/390. Back then I didn't know about the 3G and ran a second battery because at low RPMs the factory charging system and a single battery just didn't do well. It would only generate enough power when I DIDN"T need it, cruising down the freeway! The fans were never on then, even when towing, unless climbing. When doing anything at low speed/RPMs (backing trailer and heavy traffic come to mind) the fans would draw more than the alt could provide and start to drain heavily on the battery.

I am currently adding electric fans to the 460 in my 73 F-350 which prompted me to do some research and discover the 3G upgrade.

Even with the 3G I plan to run a second isolated battery for other reasons and will connect the fans to that one. Most electric fan setups are designed with the intent to keep running until they reach the set probe temp even after the key is off to reduce heat soak. The coolant will continue to conduct heat away from the motor even without the water pump turning.

Other benefits I thought of:

If you live in an area that gets very cold in the winter the lack of a mechanical fan might even be a plus (this assumes you weren't using a clutch fan before). Especially on the I6 motors, so much external block surface and so little internal heat generation.

For off-road you can install an override switch to temporarily turn them off when going through deep water keeping them from throwing it around the engine compartment or damaging them.