I had clocked the back housing trying to get the connectors lined up where I'd like them.
I ground down the nub or mounting point (threaded hole) and that actually started to clear, but it's now the center section, end of the bearing housing area, that is still contacting the head. I think you can see that in the last picture.

There is some room to keep grinding that down (picture 1), and that would leave the charge wire post the tallest point, so hopefully I could clock that in a way it's outside of the head.

Does just getting the right variant 3g relieve all fitment issues?

Thanks,

 

Thanks. Considering my truck had Armstrong steering, the Ford C-2 PS pump is exceedingly better. I'm not much of a fan of the '65-'77 Ford Thompson 'pencil neck' steering pumps. I like the '78-up C-2's. This unit is quite and not overly boosted and noisy like the Thompson pump.

The Saginaw unit is a good PS pump, I'm just not crazy about its looks. If my C-2 ever gives me a problem, I may consider a Saginaw but until then, this one works great.

 

OIC the interference now...

If you grind the back down, try and stay away from the bearing! but guessing you knew that already

What about grinding a bit of the head too?

How much material do you need to grind down?

If it's too much, perhaps consider using the 95 AMP alternator, it's still an upgrade over 1g's.

 

You could try and find a low mount bracket ..

 

It appears so.. the 3G I got off a Taurus fit like a flesh tuxedo.

 

I like the lower mounting bracket, not sure how hard that would be to find.

Funny though, I grabbed mine from a Taurus as well, and there were a few others there when I was at the yard and they all looked the same, so I just grabbed the cleanest looking one

 

I just removed a little material from the back side of the pulley with the bench grinder. No shim required.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread and RedRoad especially. Thanks for being patient, I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff. I just got done with my 3G swap in my '79 and couldn't be happier with it. It really got rid of a lot of messy wiring in there! By the way, I'm running a single belt and have no squeal issues. Hope it stays that way. Super simple to do, took me about 1.5 hours including splicing and connecting wires. Like someone else said previously, "Why did I wait this long?"

 

Did anyone actually ever use the 3G ammeter conversion kit?

PA Performance 3G ammeter wiring kit

A voltmeter looks like a cheaper/easier install than buying all this extra stuff just to retain a crappy amp gauge and all that bulky wiring.

 

I agree it would be much cleaner to skip the kit and go with one of these.
Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations
Then you would actually have a gauge that actually provides meaningful information.

 

I'm actually thinking on going with an aftermarket gauge set. Something similar to what CRSSweet's (Connor I think) has for gauges. I'm partial to the Black rings on Black faces/bodies with orange needles.

Is there anything special that needs to be done to incorporate a voltmeter in the dash?? I assume it's just another 1-2 splices somewhere along the alt wires.... but I'm no wiring genius (more like a wiring moron :P)

 

Sorry it took me a few day's to see this. I've been wandering around in the mountains for a few days.


Aftermarket voltmeters typically connect to a 12V switched source and ground. I'm sure the gauge will come with instructions.

 

Maybe no one else answered it because it was so easy to figure out lol.

Like I keep saying, I aint no genius with wires. I prefer motors and transmissions

Thanks for the response!

 

Quick question, my upgraded 3G alt apparently took a dump. Less than 100 miles on it since my swap. Was working great for a while then noticed my volt gage reading less than 12 volts and would not come back up to 14 or so where it would normally be. Took it to Autozone where their plug adapter was conveniently broke and took it to Napa. The guy there fumbled with it for 15 minutes then brought it back and said it was bad. Not entirely sure I believe him, think maybe he didn't have a clue and told me it was bad. I've got one more parts store to take it to and have tested. Question is, if it is bad do I find a different JY unit, get a reman unit, or try to figure out what went bad and order parts to repair the junk alt? Anyone have experience diagnosing and replacing parts on these? Where would I start?

 

I'd open it up and check for bad brushes or a burned/broken connections.

Look OK? Then I'd take it to a different parts store (Oreillys, Advace) and have it checked.

I'd get another JY unit... they are so cheap that I have an extra one of the shelf ready to go.