Yes, the "power in" side of both circuit breakers should be bridged. They are marked "BATT." The outbound posts are marked "AUX" Usually there was a metal shunt connecting the two "BATT" posts - that is also where your power wire from your alternator (or alternator regulator if you have one) will attach.

 

"I had some time today so I'm checking my wiring. comparing the last diagram (circuit breaker) to my actual circuit box, how do I tell which is the 30s and which is the 15s? Well, anyhow thinking the 30s is the lower post. I ran the 30s lower post to the Battery of the regulator. Than I ran from the 15s, upper post, thru the ammeter with a 10 gauge wire, over to the B terminal of the starter Solenoid. Is there supposed to be a wire joining the upper and lower post? I wouldn't think so but what does that maroon line mean? the one from the 30s to the 15s."


It's not easy to find a 30 amp ammeter today. You'll probably wind up using a shunt resistance & measuring voltage across that. It's much easier but less accurate to use the existing ammeter of the gauge cluster provided the wire that runs through the ammeter's induction loop is in good shape.
The maroon line on Julie's diagram that runs between "30s & 15s" is probably a brass or copper rectangular bar that join the two circuit breaker posts.
I've attached a picture of the back of my speedometer & gauge cluster. The circuit breakers are to the right. Hope this helps...

 

Okay, let's try again.

 

In looking at your photo, the circuit breakers have been taken out of use. Question, is your truck 6 volt positive ground or 12 volt negative ground. I assumed it was stock 6 volt positive ground.

In your pucture, the only thing the circuit breakers are being used for is as a mounting stud to hook a bunch of wires too. So, if the truck is 6 volt and you want stuff to have CB protection then they should be powered off the "AUX posts of the CBs. The generator wiring the way you have it should work as long as the large wire running through your ammeter is going out of the "BATT" post of the starter solenoid - the same post the negative battery cable is hooked up to. But you need to flow the rest of your wiring as shown in the drawing below. What ever the wire is that you have hooked up along with those two - with the blue shrink wrap, needs to come off of there and get run out of the "AUX" post of one of the breakers. As it is it is subject to the pull and unprotected output of your generator.

Power to your ignition switch should flow off the circuit breakers, and then power for the gauges should flow back from the "ACC" post of the ignition switch. I'm not seeing any of that - maybe you aren't that far yet. If it is 12 volt, you should have a fuse panel installed and have the power distribution running off of that.

The metal shunt appears to be in place between the two. The 30 amp and 15 amp labels are cast into the bakelite backs of the Circuit breakers - under the cardboard.

Here's a picture of the 51/52 CBs. The only difference is how they are mounted. Disregard the hook up notes on the photo - they were for another post.



Your panel is 48-50 and they are physically set up as in the drawing below.

Here's a picture of the 48-50 circuit breaker set up. The small light blue circle with the "A" in it is your dash ammeter :

 

Great photos help me tremendously; I had purchased a manual from e-bay a while back. It is good, helpful, but I do better talking with people. Also I don't have an ammeter. But I do have a multi-meter, it may have the capability to do these tests but I'm slacken as to using it to its fullest potential.

 

No sweat - that's why we are here.

That multimeter will get lots of use - probably get worn out by the time youare finished restoring!

 

Julie,
I do have a '51 pos ground 6V. My cb's look like what you posted, I think jbrittonjr has a '48 or '49 also with 6V pos ground. The picture is from jb's truck. I haven't learned how to post that good. Rick.

 

AH, well, you should have enough pictures now to get it hooked up and see if it works right!

 

Thats right! Julie, I looked into your galleries and that is an incredibly bad aXXXed truck you built. Wow!
Another quicky, the wire I run thru my ammeter, #10 gauge, over to my starter solenoid, needs to hook up to the lead with the (-) from the battery?

 

Thanks! All it takes is time, money, and the good help you get from folks here!

Yes, that's correct on the hook ups.

There are 3 posts on your 6 volt starter solenoid. Two big and one small. The small one runs to your Starter Button.

With the solenoid installed such that the button on the metal plate is pointing DOWN, as you look at the firewall of the truck, the left hand (on the trucks right side - pointing outward from the engine compartment) should have the 10 AWG wire that passes through the ammeter connected to it, and also the battery cable running up/back to the NEGATIVE Battery post.

Here's a picture of mine. It's a little hard to see and it looks as though I need to build a drawing of the Solenoid. But you can see the oreintation I'm describing. Also, mine is 12 volt and has a fourth post (that goes out to the ignition wire to the coil)



The other large post should have a cable that runs down to the starter connection (sticking out of the side of the starter)

 

Well I'm at it again, I just have one more connection to make than start up the truck and see if its charging.
O.K. the generator circuit is wired as per schematic and all the great help, truck starts right up and runs smoothly, ammeter reads like right in the middle. I can't tell if its charging though to be honest. Probably because I don't know how to read amps with my meter. Anyway, and sadly I have put my truck up for sale. Even as I continue to work on it a gentleman farmer and antiques dealer will be over to look at it in the next few days.

 

Well, that's a shame. I hate to see someone sell their truck!

The dash ammeter should pop up a little when you start up the truck if yo have it wired in. Of course we don't know if the gauge is any good either. You can test it with a D-cell battery for the others who are interested. It will just move a dash if it's good.

Here's a picture of how, and here's also my two new drawings on Starter Solenoid hook ups I have a third one of these for a starter switch and no button in the gallery: