Spark plugs for my 460
#1
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#4
Unless you have a very special application going, the factory stock plugs are gonna be your best bet. The vast majority of these fancy, super duper spark plugs are just exactly that, all flash for a lot of money and no improvement in anything over you basic $2 spark plug.
But alot of people have a brand preference, and for a good 'ol American V8 I thought I might get some people chiming in with plug XXX thats hotter or colder is better because the factory plugs were best for emissions, blah blah... stuff like that.
Same goes for gap. I know people pick different plugs and gaps than the factory recomended, but I don't know what or why
Try asking "what spark plug should I use" in a Motorcycle or Jet Ski forum and you'll end up starting a raging debate
#5
I did learn one plug trick bad in the late 60's. The Ford FE truck engines ran the Champion RF9 or RF10 plugs while the cars ran the RF9Y and RF11Y. The "Y" plugs had an extend reach on the electrodes. Putting the "Y" plugs in the trucks boosted the mpg by at least 1 number and sometimes more. I have never checked to see if the car 460 ran a different plug than the truck but it might be worth the try.
#6
I did learn one plug trick bad in the late 60's. The Ford FE truck engines ran the Champion RF9 or RF10 plugs while the cars ran the RF9Y and RF11Y. The "Y" plugs had an extend reach on the electrodes. Putting the "Y" plugs in the trucks boosted the mpg by at least 1 number and sometimes more. I have never checked to see if the car 460 ran a different plug than the truck but it might be worth the try.
I've got Autolite 25s in there now. They're not too bad, I gave them a cleaning and put them back in. They are the OEM plug I found. I forgot, I had them replaced just prior to the engine rebulild, so they only have 1k more miles than the motor
#7
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#8
I've spend so much time in the small engine world lately (you know, less than 7 liters lol) and there are so many pros-cons to different plugs on things like my JS550 that I was hoping I might have a choice here
#10
I just re-checked gap. I was pretty much spot on on all 8...
I do plan to check timing. I'm trying to chase a bad gas mileage problem. I'm getting like 3-4mpg lately, with seemingly nothing wrong yet...
I do plan to check timing. I'm trying to chase a bad gas mileage problem. I'm getting like 3-4mpg lately, with seemingly nothing wrong yet...
#11
i had an old farm/heavy equipment shop(holland and sons, no longer around) set up my carb and timing. no where near stock. after a couple of older mech tinkerer's set it up i got about 11 mpg's and a very noticable improvement in power, in an 85 f1504x4 with a c-6, 4.11 gears and 36"s. i was getting about 7-8 before that if i was easy on it, but you're in cali. so unless it's a trailer rig you've got smog f.ing you over. i did go from a holley that was worked over, to a 750 edelbrock performer manual choke/secondaries.
#12
Well, a 460, especially a carbed 460 is never gonna be a mileage getter. My 1984 F250 Supercab, Superduty, 460, C6 and 4.10 rear end with stock tires, stock got 6 to 7.5 mpg depending on what I was doing (camper, boat, quad in the truck bed and little trailer with second quad or the dual axle flat bed with 4 to 6 quads or any combo of the former). I replaced the carb with a Holley 1850 that I had massaged (originally built it as a back up carb for my 1968 F250 with a worked over 390), recurved the dist. and installed a 3" single exhaust and I now average not quite 10 mpg. But the 4.10 rear end requires that I stay under 58 mph or the mileage gets back into the 6 to 7.5 range again.
#13
It all depends on how you 'tune' your engine
The gaps can vary between applications. Its generally the largest gap possible without causing a miss. Too large a gap will cause a high resistance; same thing will happen with in-cylinder pressures and turbulence. The higher both of those are the more difficult the ignition of the fuel will be. Too small of a gap will also cause a miss because of the less volume of air/fuel exposed to the flame kernal produced by the electricity jumping the gap.
Make sure you have electrodes that are square, not rounded etc.
Like Fatdan460 mentioned, just make sure you have the basics set and your engine should be great. Make sure your connections on everything are the best possible.
#14
Two things about indexing plug. First unless you are looking to pull that last little single horsepower out of the motor, don't bother. Second and most important, with tapered seat plugs it is next to impossible to do it without either leaving the plugs too loose or way over tightening them. Neither situation is a good one.
#15
i had an old farm/heavy equipment shop(holland and sons, no longer around) set up my carb and timing. no where near stock. after a couple of older mech tinkerer's set it up i got about 11 mpg's and a very noticable improvement in power, in an 85 f1504x4 with a c-6, 4.11 gears and 36"s. i was getting about 7-8 before that if i was easy on it, but you're in cali. so unless it's a trailer rig you've got smog f.ing you over. i did go from a holley that was worked over, to a 750 edelbrock performer manual choke/secondaries.
Well, a 460, especially a carbed 460 is never gonna be a mileage getter. My 1984 F250 Supercab, Superduty, 460, C6 and 4.10 rear end with stock tires, stock got 6 to 7.5 mpg depending on what I was doing (camper, boat, quad in the truck bed and little trailer with second quad or the dual axle flat bed with 4 to 6 quads or any combo of the former). I replaced the carb with a Holley 1850 that I had massaged (originally built it as a back up carb for my 1968 F250 with a worked over 390), recurved the dist. and installed a 3" single exhaust and I now average not quite 10 mpg. But the 4.10 rear end requires that I stay under 58 mph or the mileage gets back into the 6 to 7.5 range again.
Something like that. But if the stock plug is what everyone else runs, it's good enough for me (and what I have already)
Two things about indexing plug. First unless you are looking to pull that last little single horsepower out of the motor, don't bother. Second and most important, with tapered seat plugs it is next to impossible to do it without either leaving the plugs too loose or way over tightening them. Neither situation is a good one.
Thanks guys, I cleaned up my Autolite 25s, gapped them, and put them back in. I did decide I need new plug wires.... one of them was so badly corroded in the boot that it wasn't re-usable...