"Real" Oil Pressure Gauge
#16
no you have to pull the guage cluster out to check if it's a Real OP cluster or not. It's pretty easy to do!
You just unhook your speedo cable from the rear of your tranny or transfer case and pull some of the slack up from the floor. Next, take the screws off the dash pieces sourounding the cluster and remove to passenger side seat. I think that reveals a few torx screws IIRC (T15 or T20 if they aren't philips head). Once the screws to the cluster are removed it should slide right out into your lap/hands so you can see the back of it.
Good luck this is a great mod!
You just unhook your speedo cable from the rear of your tranny or transfer case and pull some of the slack up from the floor. Next, take the screws off the dash pieces sourounding the cluster and remove to passenger side seat. I think that reveals a few torx screws IIRC (T15 or T20 if they aren't philips head). Once the screws to the cluster are removed it should slide right out into your lap/hands so you can see the back of it.
Good luck this is a great mod!
#17
Motorcraft Part# SW1547B fits the 1989 F250 351W in case anyone needs the info.
Is there a way to look under the dash to see if it already has the resistor? I think I can talk my son into going upside down in the truck but only if he will be able to see it (not going to be me this time!)
I don't really want to pull them out just to see if it's there.
Is there a way to look under the dash to see if it already has the resistor? I think I can talk my son into going upside down in the truck but only if he will be able to see it (not going to be me this time!)
I don't really want to pull them out just to see if it's there.
If you had an oil switch you have a resister.
If you had an oil sender you do not have the resister.
#18
well I was the exception to this rule... I had no resistor but did have the 7psi switch. It might be b/c I was in the break year for real op guage vs the switch. or a PO messed with the system...
#19
I can not find my 1989 Ford Truck shop electrical manual right now to look up the 89 information.
But the 1990 Manual shows the resister and the switch.
#20
My 88 F250 300 I6 had the 7psi switch and no resister when I got it. Keeping in mind a PO could have put the wrong part on...
I have still had an intermitent check engine light since I switched to the variable pressure sender. Something I am soon to get into... I'm guessing I used too much tef tape and the sender isn't grounding to the block properly...
I have still had an intermitent check engine light since I switched to the variable pressure sender. Something I am soon to get into... I'm guessing I used too much tef tape and the sender isn't grounding to the block properly...
#22
I need to make a correction to this thread for anyone reading about how to do this swap.
It turns out after research my cluster IS a real oil pressure guage cluster. However the OP switch is not the real OP switch. I have the 7psi idiot light OP switch.
here is my cluster out of "Thumper" ignore the red circle and arrow. This cluster is from a truck already wired for REAL oil pressure (ie: no jumper wire needed!)
Here is the Oil pressure switch that was OEM (ie: 7psi idiot light) Motorcraft SW2178A
Here is what I replaced the above switch with Motorcraft SW873B (from 87 F250 4.9L)
It turns out after research my cluster IS a real oil pressure guage cluster. However the OP switch is not the real OP switch. I have the 7psi idiot light OP switch.
here is my cluster out of "Thumper" ignore the red circle and arrow. This cluster is from a truck already wired for REAL oil pressure (ie: no jumper wire needed!)
Here is the Oil pressure switch that was OEM (ie: 7psi idiot light) Motorcraft SW2178A
Here is what I replaced the above switch with Motorcraft SW873B (from 87 F250 4.9L)
#23
So if I have low or no oil pressure, the red "ENGINE" light won't come on? If that's true I better pull my codes... Seems like the engine light came on just after I did the swap and hadn't gotten back to it yet since the 83 has been eating up my time.
#24
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