Witnessed you to the rescue on numerous electrical questions... The pinouts for the van helped a lot.
Everything works now, but I can either have a working volts gauge or a working fuel gauge but not both. I've traced, swapped pins, digital metered and more. It must be a "forest vs. trees" issue that I can't see.
Putting the original cluster back for now as the camping trip departure is tomorrow. I'll try this one again another time.
BTW, do you folks think a '96 Bronco w/tach cluster OBDI would interchange?
I've been considering this same sort of operation for my own '03 E250 using most likely a tach cluster from an F-Series. I'd want to rewire (so to speak) the cluster itself instead of changing the chassis wiring.
I'm fully convinced this can be done and might have just found the motivation to get my rear end into action!
It seems I misunderstood what was happening. Both the PSOM and the RABS/4Channel modules pull this information from the axle speed sensor at the same time. The ABS unit also uses that same circuit on the later units to send diagnostics info out to a connector near the PSOM. Heres the diagram.
I finally took time and re-visited this project on my van and had success!
So for those of you driving vans old enough to benefit, here's what was different on my '95 Club Wagon using a '95 F-250 tach cluster from a dual tank truck.
I used Fox Fader's excellent write-up, and followed everything to the letter only to discover that the 92-93 (his) and 94-96 (mine) pinouts were different. This created all sorts of issues. Thanks to Subford's diagrams and Steve83's info from the Bronco folks (anti-slosh writeup), I made a chart using my stock pinouts vs. the new truck cluster pinouts.
pin 1 move in from Grey #11 LG/Red
Pin 5 move in from Grey #6 Y/W
Pin 9 new Tach positive wire TBD
Pin 10 move in from Brown #12 BK/W (for V8)
pin 13 move in from Brown #11 R/Y
Pin 14 move in from Grey #12 R/LG
pin 1 move in from Brown # 14 BK/W
Pin 2 move in from Grey #5 PK/LG
Pin 11 move out to Brown #1 LG/Red
pin 12 move in from Brown #10 BK/Y
pin 14 make jumper wire from Grey 13
Pin 14 is used to power the anti-slosh module which will only work when the fuel trace is cut on the circuit board. If the trace is cut without a powered anti-slosh module, the fuel gauge goes past full (open circuit). When you cut the trace, and install the unpowered module the fuel gauge is inoperable, showing empty. Apparently the truck clusters have the circuit to feed the anti slosh module but no harness wiring to support it. The van circuit board already feeds the 12v input to the anti-slosh module so I had a hard time figuring out why the fuel gauge would not work after the swap.
I guess if I hadn't cut the trace or tried to install my module the fuel gauge would have worked the first time, but been bouncy while driving?
Additionally, I chose to use the check engine light circuit on the face of the tach (Grey pin 2) because the van light location on the dash trim mated to the truck anti theft light circuit location. This didn't work right when I powered it.
I also sent the airbag signal to the 4x4 low light on the cluster to match the van dash trim location for airbag light (Brown pin 2)
So if I didn't mess up this write-up, this should work for you 95-96 folks if interested.
This is a neat modification, I'll find it really useful towing as I can readily target the best RPM and gearing for maximum torque on my 5.8L. Never would have attempted without you helpful folks.
Last edited by 95CWChateau; 02-05-2014 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: Edited F-150 to correct F-250 donor cluster