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Changing Fuel Pump 6.0

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Old 03-11-2010, 11:32 AM
AWB2010 AWB2010 is offline
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Changing Fuel Pump 6.0

I am getting ready to change out my fuel pump and was wondering if I need to lubricate the o-rings on the pump with anything before installing? Also any tricks for putting it in would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:28 PM
Timon5435 Timon5435 is offline
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Do you mean the Frame Rail Mounted Fuel Pump? (HFCM)

Would you be changing out the entire pump or just the manifold cover (where the drain plug is?)
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AWB2010 View Post
I am getting ready to change out my fuel pump and was wondering if I need to lubricate the o-rings on the pump with anything before installing? Also any tricks for putting it in would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
On the banjo type fittings I always put just a smear of vaseline on the O rings to protect them when they slide in. Don't over due it. Thin coating.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:42 PM
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ok gotcha...i just changed my pump on Monday and didn't use any lubricant...they came off very easy (101,000 miles on original pump) so figured they didn't need any...I was actually surprised how easy all four came off, and how little fuel was in each of the lines.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:54 PM
mh5500 mh5500 is offline
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Do you need special tools for the lines?
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:59 PM
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Yes you do ...you can pick up the set at any autopart store...I got mine at autozone for 20 buck. Just tell them you need the fuel line tools for ford.
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:03 AM
LariatF350 LariatF350 is offline
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Two of the lines (on the engine side) use the "special" tool. The two lines on the tank side have a built in keeper that you use a small screwdrive to push the retainer in and they pull off.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:09 PM
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The little round plastic 5/16 & 3/8 tools work great. They are $5.00 for just the two. You just split them open and put them on the metal line and slide into connector. They release the spring that is holding the connector. Real easy.

Good luck.....
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:13 PM
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Sil Glyde from NAPA works real good for lubricating orings. Also holds orings in place when re-installing parts, like the oring on water pumps or HFCM.

Just a thought.....
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:33 PM
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In case I missed your entrance.. Welcome to FTE AWB2010, I see the guys are on target as usual helping out. I need to check out Sil Glyde when I am at NAPA next time Whitey, sounds interesting.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:25 PM
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I used the tools on all four lines and they worked fine. They come off real easy (no need for force) just clamp on the line and push tool in, at the same time pull the line towards the tool and the line will release. I had a shallow drain pan laying on my stomach to catch the fuel ( I was expecting a water fall of fuel) when just a little bit drained out, I laughed and unhooked the other lines.

Word of caution....if you are replacing just the manifold I suggest taking off the entire pump, changing the manifold and reinstalling the entire unit. I have a 4WD and it was no problem getting it out with the drive shaft there. You need to be able to torque the bolts to spec when installing the manifold, and I found out the hard way that you can't do that with filter housing part of the pump still attached to the frame. Good Luck.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:57 PM
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Lubriplate

this is the best stuff I have found works great on all o-rings
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:51 AM
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Still got a problem

I got the fuel pump changed and I can hear it running but I still do not have any fuel to the top filter. Is there some way to bleed the system or is there something else that could be causing no fuel through the pump? I did blow the line back to the tank thinking that it could be plugged but that did not change anything. I have tryed cycling the key numerous times but still have no fuel.
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:07 AM
zitman11 zitman11 is offline
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When I changed the manifold on mine, it took more than 10 cycles of the key to clear out all the air so the engine would run smooth. I would imagine that the recommended 3-4 cycles isnt cutting it for you either.

When you cycle the key, listen to the pump. You will hear the pump go thru its run cycle and will be able to hear the air bubbles in the fuel. Listen for the complete cycle each time and continue to cycle power until this is minimized.

This cycling is how to bleed the system.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
Lubriplate

this is the best stuff I have found works great on all o-rings
We use to think Nogall was the best until we found out it was repackaged Lubriplate. After that we would pool our money, and buy a gallon container of 930. We would get our cut in baby food jars. Good stuff.
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