dude, you did something that all americans should do ....use your brain! if everyone was like you the dealers wouldnt be the way they are. i hate it when people come on here talking about how great the dealers are, and the point blank posts they put up like their word is final say......F them guys man! i used to be a dealer tech, and i made a lot of freaking money, thats all it was about there man, $$$$$$ ! so i quit and joined the Marine Corps. so when you go in there and stand your ground against this retarded service manager, dont expect much back except for a free oil change and tire rotation.....stuff that doesnt cost him much money. screw the dealer, and screw all the lying cheating stealership prima donna techs out there, cause the only reason you might know somethin about these trucks is because you screwed it up so many times and got it right once.
I just wanted to say I do not approve of this message. As a dealer tech I do not consider myself any of the above mentioned things.
Last edited by Stewart_H; 01-26-2012 at 01:34 AM.
Reason: Moderators prerogative
05 expy eddie b. 102k 5.4 p0022 again after vct change
Hey guys my 05 eb just turned 103k. I got a p0022 last week out of the blue, changed oil and filter, changed driverside bank VCT. I only did one side. Should I do the other side? Inside of motor looks awesome honestly.
I use Valveline 5-20 oil..
Any suggestions? I am looking for any and all ideas before I have to take it to the stealer..
After following this and other forum threads, I deduced that my 04 Screw's issue was the bank 1 VCT Solenoid. Since I was already in far enough to swap spark plugs (8 for 8 unbroken!), getting to the VCTS was easy. I pulled it with the intention of cleaning it to see if that would set things right. Once it was out (excellent instructions here, use a T27), I immediately noticed that one of the filter screens was missing a scrap, which was stuck in the spool valve. Ironic that the screen designed to prevent foreign object debris from sticking the spool valve was the FOD sticking the valve.
Anyway, with a small pair of inside snap ring pliers, it was simple to pull the small snap ring in the base of the valve, remove the spring cap, spring, and (with a little persuasion due to the stuck screen) spool valve. I sprayed everything off with CRC, and reassembled. Since the first bit of debris to ever reach the valve was the debris screen, I figured leaving the damaged screen off was logical. (After all, if it now sticks due to contamination, I know how to fix it.) It turned out to be too easy to sink the snap ring too far down the bore, but it was easy to lift the spring cap back up so the snap-ring seated in the groove. Moments later, the VCTS was back in place, and I'm confident the problem will be solved, as soon as I'm able to get all 8 new spark plugs shipped here undamaged.
My guess is that the VCTS probably dies from being stuck, and that prolonged use burns up the coil. I had the Screw towed home from where the CEL came on (AAA!) so I'm confident the VCTS will function as new.
I know this is an old post but this just happened to me... exactly as Tommy75703's problem. I declined to have them touch it any further than the diagnostics after they said I needed a new engine because of sludge build up. I called an old school friend of mine "ford certified" but went out and opened his own shop and he advised me to drain the oil and poor a half gallon of diesel fuel in it and let it idle for half an hour and see if that helps ( he did advise me of possible affects do to the cleaning like smoking do to the diesel cleaning it so well. Keep in mind my F150 5.4 would not even idle cold or warmed up. When I drained the diesel it was BLACK but at least it idles now. I don’t know why I have sludge build up because I change my oil ever 5000-6000 miles I do mostly highway driving. Today I called a ford dealer in Ohio and ordered the VCT solenoid’s and gaskets I hope that fixes it because its cold out lol and I have to do this in my un-heated barn
Last edited by Webdesigner; 12-31-2012 at 08:10 PM.
Me either but he does know a lot about motors. It’s kind of strange but I think it has more power no than it did. I’m very glad I found this forum... I find the info very useful. To be honest this is my first Ford, I bought it 3 years ago with 50k on it but I wouldn't trade it for anything. The VCT solenoids must have been trashed inside because they looked ok to the naked eye. This summer me and my son will tackle the cam phasers just because I don’t know if they have ever been changed. I would recommend to everyone (at your own risk of course) try draining the oil and adding a half gallon of diesel and let it idle (no revving)for 30min (leaving the filter in place and full of oil) drain the diesel change the filter add new oil, drive it for 100 miles then change the oil again and you should be good to go. I know now to NEVER listen to the dealerships. I know it could be risky but to me it was worth it. The $8000.00 the dealer want for a new engine is money in the bank.
Hi, I am new to this kind of thing, I am not in the least mechanically inclined, I have a 2004 F150 FX4 with the same issue, a friend helped me pull the vvt solenoid I think it is the same thing as the vct ? the pins in the top of the wiring harness for the vvt solenoid were broken so we replaced the one side hooked it back up and almost instantly the engine made terrible sounds that caused my friend to throw it in neutral and stop the truck. he unplugged the new vvt solenoid and it stopped making the sound. now i can't plug the wiring harness back in without it making a grinding scrapping sound in the engine. Any suggestion? should i have replaced both sides at the same time? really wondering if something else maybe the timing chain is off? the car sales place I bought it from appears to have disabled the check engine light and i may have been driving a yr. with it on and not known. i have 189k miles as a side note. any help would be appreciated thanks