Looking at tackling this job really soon,parts are on the way.I was wondering,if the coolant passes through the oil cooler to the EGR cooler and I install an EGR delete and new oil cooler.Does the flow of coolant get interrupted and engine oil overheat?How does that work?
To the OP, speaking from experience, removed the injector harness before removing the intake manifold. If not, you risk breaking the plastic connectors on the injectors. You will be very mad at yourself if you do break them as it adds lots of work to change them out.
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2004 F250 Lariat 6.0 PSD
EGR Delete, Rebuilt Oil Cooler, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Isspro EV2 EGT, Boost and Trans Temp in A pillar pod. Scangauge showing EOT/ECT. New bushwacker fender flares and paint. Next my kitty might get scared and run away!!
Here I go as well. I have all the parts I need so far. Should get the Sinister delete kit Moday in the mail. Disconected batts and drained coolant last night. Since I only have from about 5pm till dark I hope to have mine done by Wednesday or so next week. Let ya know how it goes.....
Be very careful not to drop any nuts or bolts when removing them. If you do, they will tend to hide under the intake manifold. The last thing you want is a small nut falling in the engine while you are trying to remove the intake. Do you have a detailed writeup as to what you need to remove. If not, there is a great step by step list out there I could dig up for you. 2 last tips, you may want to zip tie your belt in place after removing the alternator, this way you wont have to reroute the belt when you are done....also you may want a turkey baster to suck the oil out from under the oil cooler once you pull it. Have rags on hand as pulling that cooler is messy!!! GOOD LUCK...
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2004 F250 Lariat 6.0 PSD
EGR Delete, Rebuilt Oil Cooler, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Isspro EV2 EGT, Boost and Trans Temp in A pillar pod. Scangauge showing EOT/ECT. New bushwacker fender flares and paint. Next my kitty might get scared and run away!!
hndacr,
I have a pretty good write up and have been copy pasting tips on a Word doc from people on this site. I also have been reviewing the Sinister instructions, as this will get most of the "above oil cooler" items off and out of the way. If you can dig up a complete write up I would appreciate it. Either post or PM me. I'm sure I'll be back with questions or concerns as I go along. Thanks to all thus far. Fishing time is rapidly aproaching and I want my truck back!
Be very careful not to drop any nuts or bolts when removing them. If you do, they will tend to hide under the intake manifold. The last thing you want is a small nut falling in the engine while you are trying to remove the intake. Do you have a detailed writeup as to what you need to remove. If not, there is a great step by step list out there I could dig up for you. 2 last tips, you may want to zip tie your belt in place after removing the alternator, this way you wont have to reroute the belt when you are done....also you may want a turkey baster to suck the oil out from under the oil cooler once you pull it. Have rags on hand as pulling that cooler is messy!!! GOOD LUCK...
can you please post up what you have? or PM it to me?
Thanks
__________________ 2004 F250 SD CC 6.0L ARP Studs, HG's, FCD EGR delete, Banks CAI, Intake Elbow, turbo drain upgrade, cooling mod, Fumoto, Full MBRP, SCT X3 - Innovative tunes, 7 ISSPRO gauges, Rough Country lift kit and shocks, Rough Country steering stabilizer, 09 Mirrors, 07 HD headlight conversion, 09 rear bumper, 09 tail lights, HID's, Fresh Paint, Train Horns, Pro-Tech Cab Guard, Weatherguard Box, spray bedliner, wheels and BFG all terrain's... 1971 Nova......
This is what I have so far. If you go to the Sinister diesel site you can see the directions for install of it.
Tip1 get a freeze plug welded into the exhaust end of that new cooler.
tip2, Don't be lazy ,,Pull the connector off the first two injectors on each side.
tip3 clean the valley AFTER you pull the turbo but BEFORE you pull the oilcooler, it could save your IPR.
be sure to protect the turbo drain hole in the HPOP. fficeffice" />>> >> Getting started
Drain the coolant out of the Radiator, and disconnect the batteries. Then start taking things apart, First remove the front part of the air intake, then the intercooler lines (7/16 deep well socket). Then removed the Degas bottle (10mm socket) after it was out of the way you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the air intake elbow on the turbo in place (8mm socket). Then use a 1/2” drive ratchet in the tensioner pulley to remove the belt, once removed unplug and remove the alternator (13mm socket and 10mm socket).
After that, either drain the oil or I believe you can just loosen the cap on the oil filter and it will let the oil drain out of the housing. Then take the fuel lines off (11/16 wrench and I used a crescent wrench for the main supply lines) and remove the oil filter/ fuel filter housing. (Either a #40 or 45 hex head socket). Then remove the clamps on both side of the turbo (deep well 7/16 socket) the exhaust manifolds Y pipe clamp on the turbo can be a real pain in the butt!! Just try and stay patient and keep messing with it and it will break loose. Note: if you have aftermarket exhaust it would be easier to completely remove the down pipe. Once the clamps are removed take the 2 bolts out of the oil supply line on top of the turbo (10mm wrench) then take the 3 bolts out of the turbo (10mm socket). There are 2 on the front and one on the back of the turbo, it is on the driver’s side of the turbo and I found it easier to get with a ¼” ratchet reaching around the back of the turbo from the down pipe side. Then its time to remove the turbo, use a pry bar and wiggle it free from the mount. You have to hold your teeth just right and say the perfect combination of 4 letter words but it will wiggle free eventually. Once the turbo is removed take the 4 bolts out of the turbo mount (10mm socket) and remove the mount and turbo oil drain tube.
Now it is time to remove the intake, take the 2 bolts out of the egr cooler at the front of the intake (deep well 10mm socket) and remove the clamp that holds the egr cooler to the up pipe. I just cut the small blue/orange hose that connects the egr cooler to the oilcooler with a knife. Then loosen all the bolts on top of the intake (10mm socket and wrench) try and keep up with were the bolts that have extra threads sticking up to hold down elec. connections. Note: on the far back right intake bolt there is what I assume to be a ground wire that is held down with a 10mm nut make sure you remember to reinstall it on assembly. There are also 2 bolt the hold the fan shroud to the intake that need to be removed (deep well 15mm socket) and one bolt and clamp holding a fuel line (10mm socket). Remove the intake you might have to tap the Egr cooler out of the bottom of the intake with a hammer. Make sure as you are sliding the intake out that its not caught on any wires or the intake gasket O-rings.>> > >
Yup, remove your injector harness before pulling the intake manifold. It will make your life much easier and possibly prevent a broken connector. Don't ask how I know this bit of information >>
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2004 F250 Lariat 6.0 PSD
EGR Delete, Rebuilt Oil Cooler, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Isspro EV2 EGT, Boost and Trans Temp in A pillar pod. Scangauge showing EOT/ECT. New bushwacker fender flares and paint. Next my kitty might get scared and run away!!
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