03' F-250 won't start???
#19
Harbor Freight has a 100 Amp 6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester for 25.00. I purchased one about 3 months ago..
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
#20
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: N. Fort Worth, tx
Posts: 12,123
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19 Posts
Harbor Freight has a 100 Amp 6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester for 25.00. I purchased one about 3 months ago..
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
#21
ok, so it is 10 months later and this has happened again to me. all power is good, turn key, and nothing! my neighbor who has the same type of truck says his did the same thing and it ended up being the alternator. does this make sense that it wont let you turn over the engine if the alternator is bad but the batteries still have good voltage?
#23
#25
The only authoritative test of batteries is under full load.
That is, individually, each battery need to be loaded with a 200 amp load to simulate the starting load of the 6.0, which draws around 350 to 400 amps with everything running.
The starter alone is 3.0 kw
12.4volt is not great voltage for an unburdened battery.
If you are getting nothing at all... I would have checked the ignition key / harness there (a known chafe point) before I went further.
#26
Again ....
My experience is that a bad alternator is often followed quickly by a bad battery (or two). If that is your case, you can throw in an expensive FICM later unless you check it out thoroughly now. A voltage test is useless. Do the load test on each individual battery. I do it at least twice a year now as preventative maintenance - and I have new batteries.
#27
id see if i was getting a signal from the ign. switch to the starter if i were you.if its been 10 mos. since it happened again sounds like maybe your ign. switch is on its way out, or the park-neutral safety switch is acting up.also, pull the batts. out and take them to your local auto parts store and have them load tested.that would be my first step as suggested by everyone who replied to your post.if nothing else itll give you piece of mind to know theyre good.
#28
thanks. will do a load test when i get home on each battery first. one thing to note is the truck was stolen 2 years ago and the messed with the ignition to get it started, so there may be some residual problem from it that i am just now seeing. thanks for everyones responses---LOVE THIS SITE!
#29
especially if the starter isn't even cracking.
I would say look @ the ignition switch & wire harness in the column
for chaffing as well.
Could even be a PATS issue - the computer doesn't recognize your key?
Good luck
#30
My '95 does the same thing from time to time. I believe it is the neutral safety switch. It does the same thing in neutral. I have had to leave the key on and jump across the starter relay to get it started. I have noticed that depending on how I park it ( frame slightly twisted ) it will do it. I haven't crawled under it to adjust the switch yet but I wouild bet money that is what is going on with mine. I hope this gives you an idea where to look. If your ignition switch is okay it will stayrunning when you jump across the relay if it doesn't then it is probably in the ignition switch. Hope this helps.