6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

03' F-250 won't start???

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  #16  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:23 AM
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bismic:
He is running a 7.3L not a 6.0L, so does all the advice still hold true?
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:26 AM
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I believe he has 2 trucks, and is referring to his wife's 6.0 that isn't in his sig.
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:28 AM
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Chiefn10:
Thank you, Brian42 and Cowboy69911 for your service. All in San Diego and all driving 7.3L.
 
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:48 PM
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Harbor Freight has a 100 Amp 6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester for 25.00. I purchased one about 3 months ago..

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
 
  #20  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rocky1074
Harbor Freight has a 100 Amp 6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester for 25.00. I purchased one about 3 months ago..

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...%20Accessories
Ive used that tool and not to be mean but its a great paper weight. not at all accurate. save the $20 and have a battery store test em. its free most everywere.
 
  #21  
Old 01-11-2011, 09:34 PM
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ok, so it is 10 months later and this has happened again to me. all power is good, turn key, and nothing! my neighbor who has the same type of truck says his did the same thing and it ended up being the alternator. does this make sense that it wont let you turn over the engine if the alternator is bad but the batteries still have good voltage?
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:56 PM
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No,

Do you hear starter relay clicking?

What is batt voltage?
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:58 PM
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no starter clicking--even took starter off to see if it would spin and nothing. it is almost like my ignition switch went completely out. voltages are good on both batteries
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveBricks
Why refer to them as a "stealership" when they helped out over the phone at no charge? I'd say they did you right.

Thanks Steve.
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by chiefn10
no starter clicking--even took starter off to see if it would spin and nothing. it is almost like my ignition switch went completely out. voltages are good on both batteries


The only authoritative test of batteries is under full load.

That is, individually, each battery need to be loaded with a 200 amp load to simulate the starting load of the 6.0, which draws around 350 to 400 amps with everything running.

The starter alone is 3.0 kw


12.4volt is not great voltage for an unburdened battery.


If you are getting nothing at all... I would have checked the ignition key / harness there (a known chafe point) before I went further.
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:01 AM
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Again ....

Originally Posted by bismic
My experience is that a bad alternator is often followed quickly by a bad battery (or two). If that is your case, you can throw in an expensive FICM later unless you check it out thoroughly now. A voltage test is useless. Do the load test on each individual battery. I do it at least twice a year now as preventative maintenance - and I have new batteries.
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:04 PM
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id see if i was getting a signal from the ign. switch to the starter if i were you.if its been 10 mos. since it happened again sounds like maybe your ign. switch is on its way out, or the park-neutral safety switch is acting up.also, pull the batts. out and take them to your local auto parts store and have them load tested.that would be my first step as suggested by everyone who replied to your post.if nothing else itll give you piece of mind to know theyre good.
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:10 PM
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thanks. will do a load test when i get home on each battery first. one thing to note is the truck was stolen 2 years ago and the messed with the ignition to get it started, so there may be some residual problem from it that i am just now seeing. thanks for everyones responses---LOVE THIS SITE!
 
  #29  
Old 01-12-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by chiefn10
one thing to note is the truck was stolen 2 years ago and the messed with the ignition to get it started, so there may be some residual problem from it that i am just now seeing. thanks for everyones responses---LOVE THIS SITE!
This info sort of changes the priority of things....
especially if the starter isn't even cracking.

I would say look @ the ignition switch & wire harness in the column
for chaffing as well.

Could even be a PATS issue - the computer doesn't recognize your key?

Good luck
 
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:51 PM
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My '95 does the same thing from time to time. I believe it is the neutral safety switch. It does the same thing in neutral. I have had to leave the key on and jump across the starter relay to get it started. I have noticed that depending on how I park it ( frame slightly twisted ) it will do it. I haven't crawled under it to adjust the switch yet but I wouild bet money that is what is going on with mine. I hope this gives you an idea where to look. If your ignition switch is okay it will stayrunning when you jump across the relay if it doesn't then it is probably in the ignition switch. Hope this helps.
 


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