'53 Clutch Confidence Builder
#1
'53 Clutch Confidence Builder
'53 Ford F-100 - Flat Head 8 with a 3 on the tree light duty trans but with the clutch burned out.
I've never messed with a clutch or tranny before but got a new disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, release bearing, and alignment tool coming Tuesday from NAPA.
Yesterday got it jacked up, the trans cover off and started looking at what I was gonna tackle. I see that the motor mounts are part of the bell housing. That means I've got to support the engine before I take that baby off.
Y'all got more advice for the rook?
I've never messed with a clutch or tranny before but got a new disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, release bearing, and alignment tool coming Tuesday from NAPA.
Yesterday got it jacked up, the trans cover off and started looking at what I was gonna tackle. I see that the motor mounts are part of the bell housing. That means I've got to support the engine before I take that baby off.
Y'all got more advice for the rook?
#2
If this is your first time.
MOST important to work safe.
Proper jack stands and a back up system ( jack or additional blocking )
Try and shake the truck off the stands Before you go under.
This is the way to start and finish the job.
A wood block under th back of the oil pan with a small bottle jack will give you the support you need to remove the bellhousing.
Good luck with your project.
Brian
MOST important to work safe.
Proper jack stands and a back up system ( jack or additional blocking )
Try and shake the truck off the stands Before you go under.
This is the way to start and finish the job.
A wood block under th back of the oil pan with a small bottle jack will give you the support you need to remove the bellhousing.
Good luck with your project.
Brian
#3
It looks intimidating, but like most everything else its a simple process of undoing bolts and nuts unitl you get it done.
I agree with Fedman - work safe, that's #1.
Try and clean the excess mud and grease off the tranny before you unbolt it. Clutches are like brakes when it comes to grease or oil tolerance - there isn't any.
Be sure to drain the transmission prior to removing the drive shaft. I'm not sure if you have a bolt up or slip yoke, but it will make it lighter to handle anyway. Refill it with new SAE 90 gear oil after you reinstall.
A pair of leather gloves when breaking bolts may save some nuckles and prevent those "more colorful metaphores."
Take it slow and don't be in a hurry. If you need a new part, and the parts place is closed, wait until tomorrow and get the right part - IOW no shortcuts.
Be sure to get the flywheel surfaced. And replace the pilot bushing.
Replace both the front and rear transmission seals.
Clean clean clean. Clean those hands before starting the reinstall.
When reinstalling, be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all your bolts to the correct specification.
Lightly wipe the contact surfaces of the flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure with a CLEAN rag moistend slightly with Lacquer thinner to remove any oil or fingerprints. Don't touch the contact surfaces again after that.
When reinstalling the pressure plate, insert the plastic alignment tool into the clutch plate to hold it in the proper place.
When torquing the pressure plate, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern (like when you put a wheel on) in stages of 5 to10ft/lb - never tighten one side down completely with the others loose.
Keep it clean. (did I mention that already?)
You might check your U-joints while you have the drive shaft off and replace them as necessary.
Don't forget to refill the tranny with new SAE 90.
If you can turn a wrench, you can do this. It's not hard - just one step at a time - divide and conquer.
I agree with Fedman - work safe, that's #1.
Try and clean the excess mud and grease off the tranny before you unbolt it. Clutches are like brakes when it comes to grease or oil tolerance - there isn't any.
Be sure to drain the transmission prior to removing the drive shaft. I'm not sure if you have a bolt up or slip yoke, but it will make it lighter to handle anyway. Refill it with new SAE 90 gear oil after you reinstall.
A pair of leather gloves when breaking bolts may save some nuckles and prevent those "more colorful metaphores."
Take it slow and don't be in a hurry. If you need a new part, and the parts place is closed, wait until tomorrow and get the right part - IOW no shortcuts.
Be sure to get the flywheel surfaced. And replace the pilot bushing.
Replace both the front and rear transmission seals.
Clean clean clean. Clean those hands before starting the reinstall.
When reinstalling, be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all your bolts to the correct specification.
Lightly wipe the contact surfaces of the flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure with a CLEAN rag moistend slightly with Lacquer thinner to remove any oil or fingerprints. Don't touch the contact surfaces again after that.
When reinstalling the pressure plate, insert the plastic alignment tool into the clutch plate to hold it in the proper place.
When torquing the pressure plate, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern (like when you put a wheel on) in stages of 5 to10ft/lb - never tighten one side down completely with the others loose.
Keep it clean. (did I mention that already?)
You might check your U-joints while you have the drive shaft off and replace them as necessary.
Don't forget to refill the tranny with new SAE 90.
If you can turn a wrench, you can do this. It's not hard - just one step at a time - divide and conquer.
#4
Thank you both! Yesterday I was ready to punt and take it down the street to a shop. But overnight I had second thoughts and your detailed advice gives me confidence. Time I got...Money is the short thing.
When we got the truck my wife (29 years tomorrow) said, "We got the money to get it." I tried to remind her that procurement was only the beginning (Chicago song).
Thanks again.
Howie
When we got the truck my wife (29 years tomorrow) said, "We got the money to get it." I tried to remind her that procurement was only the beginning (Chicago song).
Thanks again.
Howie
#5
Best of luck
#6
#7
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#8
Remember that tranny is heavy get help or have adequate support under it when you remove the last bolt. You don't want to end up pinned to the floor with it sitting on your chest while you hollar for help. Also be prepared that it might want to roll to the side once it is out. If you have a floor jack, tranny cradles are fairly inexpensive at places like Northern tools and Harbor Freight. A 4 wheel simple wood furniture dolly can be pressed into service to set the tranny on and makes it easy to roll it out from under the truck.
Don't forget to disconnect the speedo cable (and backup light switch if so equipped).
Don't forget to disconnect the speedo cable (and backup light switch if so equipped).
#9
#10
THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU
I took my time. Worked safely. Worked cleanly (even the mouth amazingly). Finished the clutch work tonight and it works great. I preciate all the advice. Wish I had found this forum last April when I got the truck.
Next up, the temp and fuel gauges.
I took my time. Worked safely. Worked cleanly (even the mouth amazingly). Finished the clutch work tonight and it works great. I preciate all the advice. Wish I had found this forum last April when I got the truck.
Next up, the temp and fuel gauges.
When you get ready to do the gauges, start a new thread for those - we have plenty of good info there too.