1995 F150 4R70W 1-2 Accumulator Spring Replacement?
Good Afternoon. New To The Site. Owned The Truck Since 90K Miles. 150,000 Current Miles, 302 5.0 4x4. Always A Hard 1-2 Shift Under Slight To Moderate Accellerator Pressure. All Other Gear Shifts Flawless. Can The 1-2 Accumulator Spring/Piston Be Replaced Without Pulling The Transmission? Secondly Is There An Upper & Lower 1-2 Accum Spring & Piston? Does Replacing The Spring & Piston Require Removal Of The Valve Body? Any Ballpark Figures On What This Would Cost. The Tranny Shop Said This Would Require A Complete Overhaul Which Im Hoping Is Not True! Any Help Or Words Of Wisdom Would Be Appreciated.
You can replace those spring by just removing the pan, you should also replace the accumulator piston and cover too, you my have the "old style" aluminum one, the new style is steel with molded rubber lip seals.
Here is some info I found
1-2 Bottom springs (For use with 1997 and later molded style pistons)
jk080 thanks for your help on this. Are the part numbers you gave me okay to use with the earlier 4R70W as it said for 97 & Newer? When you are talking about the upper spring and piston assembly, how is that accessed? Directly Above the lower spring & Piston assembly? Do I Need to unbolt the valve body to access these springs and pistons? Any expert tips when unbolting and removing the valvebody? Thanks For any help anyone can offer!
No you wont have to remove the valve body, this is located in the upper corner of the case next to the valve body, you will need a pair of internal snap ring pliers.
Just remove the snap ring then the cover will come out, next is the lower spring then the accumulator piston then the upper spring.
The last picture shows the old style and the new style pistons, they will interchange with your transmission. I would not worry about the 2-3 piston, just leave it, you will have to remove the valve body for that one.
Okay. Got All The Parts From Ford. everything is correct & fits in. Big Question. Ford dealer gave me a white spring for the top to replace the yellow that was there. This is a MUCH more rigid spring(F7AZ-7F284-AA). When the lower spring is installed below the piston and I go to close it up with the cap at the bottom with the retainer it seems it is going to take a TON of force to close it up. Me & A Buddy couldnt press it back in. Is this right that there should be this much pressure on it? To The Point That It Seems It Would Take A Press Of Some Sort. Maybe I Should Go Back To The Yellow Spring That Came Out? The Piston is snugly & properly seated after reviewing the previous pics in this post. Thanks For Any Help anyone can offer.
Hello, Getting the spring back in was a royal pain! You will laugh but I took a floor jack and used a round socket on the top of it to help push the piston and cover back into the bore. It took nearly three tries but that finally did it.
The 1-2 shift was noticeably firmer/quicker. It to this day still shifts better 3 years later. any of the other accumulator springs require removal of the valve body I was told, I didn't feel like getting that in depth.
I won't laugh cause ill probably be doing the same thing. How did it run after you switched it out and is there a 3 and 4 spring as well?
Update to an old post....
I have been researching this very issue. I found this youtube vid. at about 9 min he breaks out a home made tool that might work with the tranz still in the truck. Might have to use longer bolts cause the valve body is still mounted on mine.