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  #1  
Old 03-06-2010, 11:58 AM
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Question 1995 F150 4R70W 1-2 Accumulator Spring Replacement?

Good Afternoon. New To The Site. Owned The Truck Since 90K Miles. 150,000 Current Miles, 302 5.0 4x4. Always A Hard 1-2 Shift Under Slight To Moderate Accellerator Pressure. All Other Gear Shifts Flawless. Can The 1-2 Accumulator Spring/Piston Be Replaced Without Pulling The Transmission? Secondly Is There An Upper & Lower 1-2 Accum Spring & Piston? Does Replacing The Spring & Piston Require Removal Of The Valve Body? Any Ballpark Figures On What This Would Cost. The Tranny Shop Said This Would Require A Complete Overhaul Which Im Hoping Is Not True! Any Help Or Words Of Wisdom Would Be Appreciated.

Thanks
Jeremy
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2010, 12:31 PM
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You can replace those spring by just removing the pan, you should also replace the accumulator piston and cover too, you my have the "old style" aluminum one, the new style is steel with molded rubber lip seals.

Here is some info I found


1-2 Bottom springs (For use with 1997 and later molded style pistons)

Part Number
From
To
Color
Comments
Suggested Retail
(March 2005)
F7AZ-7F284-BA
1992
1994
Violet
Bottom
$34.37
F3LY-7F284-A
1995
1997
Purple
Bottom
$11.93
F4UZ-7F284-A
1998
2000
Pink
Bottom
$4.22
1L3Z-7F284-AA
2001
2005
Dark Blue
Bottom Inner
$4.22
1L3Z-7F284-BA
2001
2005
Yellow
Bottom Outer
$4.52

1-2 Upper springs (For use with 1997 and later molded style pistons)

Part Number
From
To
Color
Comments
Suggested Retail

1992
1993

Top spring not installed in production

F7AZ-7F284-CA
1994
1994
Dark Blue
Top
$34.45
F7AZ-7F284-AA
1995
1997
White
Top
Supercedes: F4UZ-7F284-B
$4.52
F75Z-7F284-AA
1998
2000
Light Blue
Top
Supercedes: F3LY-7F284-B
$4.52
1W7Z-7F284-AA
2001
2005
Light Green
Top
$4.28






F75Z-7F284-BA



Top spring used in econoline vans, explorers, mountaineers, and f-150 pickup trucks. Very stiff. Never factory installed in production crown victorias.
$4.22

1-2 Accumulator piston and related parts

Part Number
From
To
Comments
Suggested Retail
F7AZ-7F251-AA
1997
2005
Molded accumulator piston
$14.48
F4AZ-7F247-A
1992
2005
Accumulator case bore cover
Outer edge contains a rubber seal that may be damaged during removal
$5.57
F2VY-7384-A
1992
2005
Accumulator case bore cover snap ring
$2.33
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2010, 06:20 PM
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A Couple Follow Up Questions?

jk080 thanks for your help on this. Are the part numbers you gave me okay to use with the earlier 4R70W as it said for 97 & Newer? When you are talking about the upper spring and piston assembly, how is that accessed? Directly Above the lower spring & Piston assembly? Do I Need to unbolt the valve body to access these springs and pistons? Any expert tips when unbolting and removing the valvebody? Thanks For any help anyone can offer!


Jeremy
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:10 PM
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No you wont have to remove the valve body, this is located in the upper corner of the case next to the valve body, you will need a pair of internal snap ring pliers.Name:  DSC04961_thumba.jpg
Views: 6263
Size:  61.0 KB

Just remove the snap ring then the cover will come out, next is the lower spring then the accumulator piston then the upper spring.
Name:  1342213-Accumulator.jpg
Views: 4128
Size:  29.6 KB



The last picture shows the old style and the new style pistons, they will interchange with your transmission. I would not worry about the 2-3 piston, just leave it, you will have to remove the valve body for that one.
Name:  DSC04959_thumb.jpg
Views: 4464
Size:  172.1 KB
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2010, 08:42 PM
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JK080. Pictures Say A Thousand Words! Thanks A Bunch For The Help & Advice! If This Fixes The Trucks 1-2 Shift & Your Ever In Kansas City I Owe You A Six Pack.

Thanks
Jeremy
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2010, 06:49 PM
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Okay. Got All The Parts From Ford. everything is correct & fits in. Big Question. Ford dealer gave me a white spring for the top to replace the yellow that was there. This is a MUCH more rigid spring(F7AZ-7F284-AA). When the lower spring is installed below the piston and I go to close it up with the cap at the bottom with the retainer it seems it is going to take a TON of force to close it up. Me & A Buddy couldnt press it back in. Is this right that there should be this much pressure on it? To The Point That It Seems It Would Take A Press Of Some Sort. Maybe I Should Go Back To The Yellow Spring That Came Out? The Piston is snugly & properly seated after reviewing the previous pics in this post. Thanks For Any Help anyone can offer.

Jeremy
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:25 AM
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do you have any tips on getting the spring and piston in, i replaced mine and am having a really hard time getting in back in.
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2013, 05:03 PM
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how did you get it back in??
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2013, 08:47 PM
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Hello, Getting the spring back in was a royal pain! You will laugh but I took a floor jack and used a round socket on the top of it to help push the piston and cover back into the bore. It took nearly three tries but that finally did it.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:50 AM
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How does the transmission behave after all this?
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:18 AM
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I won't laugh cause ill probably be doing the same thing. How did it run after you switched it out and is there a 3 and 4 spring as well?
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:02 PM
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The 1-2 shift was noticeably firmer/quicker. It to this day still shifts better 3 years later. any of the other accumulator springs require removal of the valve body I was told, I didn't feel like getting that in depth.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:02 PM
 
 
 
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