Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 03-05-2010, 05:45 PM
clarkbre's Avatar
clarkbre clarkbre is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 45
clarkbre is starting off with a positive reputation.
Voltage Regulator Problems

My brother and I have been working on his 1970 F250 w/ a 360. At first we were having issues with the alternator so that was replaced. We are still having a problem getting the truck to charge properly. When the engine is running, it is showing about 12.5volts on the multimeter. After going through the wiring, we’ve determined that all continuity is good and set up correctly. This lead us to think it was the voltage regulator. So, we tested that by pulling the plug and jumping the “A” and “F” ports on the plug in. This made the multimeter jump to nearly 16volts showing that the voltage regulator was suspect.
fficeffice" />>>
As of now, we’ve replaced the regulator, plugged it in and turned the truck on…Again, it’s only showing 12.5 volts.
>>
What are your guys thoughts on this? What should be the next step we take? Any ideas would be great.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-05-2010, 06:41 PM
Fark_Que Fark_Que is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1
Fark_Que is starting off with a positive reputation.
certainly your on the money, im not familiar with the older american charging systems, but if their anything like the bosch systems here in Australia check the regulator has its power on the correct terminals (Constant, ignition and maybe an earth?) Bosch only run 2 pin regulators which makes it easy
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-06-2010, 03:17 AM
grockin2004 grockin2004 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 18
grockin2004 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Have the battery load tested. Make sure all of the wire connections are solid and not corroded, especially the battery ground wire attached the the engine and make sure the amp meter gauge in the gauge panel is connected and the printed circuit board has not burned out.

I just had the same problem with my 1970 F-250 390 charging system. replaced alt., regulator, and battery. just like you, I could not get over 13 VDC. After checking and replacing a few questionable wire connectors. I took the alternator to autozone to have it checked. Turns out the "new" re-conditioned alternator was bad too. I returned it for a refund and went to NAPA. now I get 14.5 VDC. at idle.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-06-2010, 03:18 AM
grockin2004 grockin2004 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 18
grockin2004 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Have the battery load tested. Make sure all of the wire connections are solid and not corroded, especially the battery ground wire attached the the engine and make sure the amp meter gauge in the gauge panel is connected and the printed circuit board has not burned out.

I just had the same problem with my 1970 F-250 390 charging system. replaced alt., regulator, and battery. just like you, I could not get over 13 VDC. After checking and replacing a few questionable wire connectors. I took the alternator to autozone to have it checked. Turns out the "new" re-conditioned alternator was bad too. I returned it for a refund and went to NAPA. now I get 14.5 VDC. at idle.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-08-2010, 05:17 PM
MidMich67's Avatar
MidMich67 MidMich67 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 85
MidMich67 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Glad Im not the only one this is happening to. So I will enlighten you on what I did. Got the truck going this summer and put a new deep cycle Interstate battery in it. Made it all summer and into January before I started having problems. Did a Starting and Charging system test on it and determined the alternator was bad. Put a new Motorcraft in it. literally lasted a week and once again bad battery. So got it warrantied and still wasnt charging. Went to Napa and got a new voltage regulator and it charged once again for about a week. after going through all the same steps as you did and another regulater I got upset. My father ended up being the genious and put a electronic voltage regulator off a late 70s ford. Havent had a problem since. For the 12 bucks or whatever it was its worth seeing if that fixes your charging system woes.
__________________
67 SWB F-100, 460, C6
08 H-D Street Glide
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-08-2010, 07:09 PM
clarkbre's Avatar
clarkbre clarkbre is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 45
clarkbre is starting off with a positive reputation.
After looking at the schematics (a lot), I think I finally zoned in on the actual problem...correct wiring, or lack there of.

The plug to the VR has 4 designated wires going into it, labeled F,S,A, and I. Here's how the plug looks vertically going into the VR on our pick up:

I- No wire
A- Yellow- To solenoid
S- Green w/ red stripe- To harness plug
F- Orange- To field

Now, the '69 and '70 schematics both have the same wire number designation and it looks as though the stock wiring was like this on the plug:

I- Green w/ red stripe- To harness plug
A- Yellow- To solenoid
S- White w/ black stripe- To stator
F- Orange- To field

What do you all think? Could it be?

Also, for what it's worth, the alternator that was replaced didn't have a stator post. Only the Battery, Field, and Ground posts.

Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-09-2010, 10:20 AM
clarkbre's Avatar
clarkbre clarkbre is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 45
clarkbre is starting off with a positive reputation.
I thought I'd give you all an update and a thank you. After reading through numerous threads, I found that the "S" Green/red wire needed to be hot when the ignition was in the on position.

We went out and tested it and, of course, no voltage. So, we hooked that wire up to a switched lead and it worked perfect. The wire is getting 12v when the ignition is in the "on" position.

We started running the truck and the battery was charging steady at 14.62v. When we turned all the lights on, the voltage dropped slightly to 14.57v for just a second and then went right back up to 14.62v.

So thank you guys for the good information on this website.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-19-2010, 04:11 PM
Thipdar's Avatar
Thipdar Thipdar is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 422
Thipdar is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Sounds like what's wrong with my truck... and I've also got the 3-wire connector coming off of the VR. Well, it's kind of a three and a half wire connector - there seems to be a test point wired into the connector, to check the "A" pin on the VR.

So it sounds to me like "S" stands for "Switch", and not for "Stator".

BTW, I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram you showed above isn't the one you need. I believe the "I" contact from the VR would drive the Amps INDICATOR (light), if you had that on your dash. I'd bet that yours, like mine, has an Amp METER on the Instrument Cluster. Since the current flow is through the wiring, it doesn't need the "I" wire (#904) to drive a light; the meter is driven by other wiring. You should try to find the wiring diagram that is appropriate for the Amp meter.

(tentative) Voltage Regulator Pin-out:

"I" = "Indicator"
"A" = "Alternator"
"S" = "Switch"
"F" = "Field"

For trucks with Amp indicator:
"I" = Wire #904
"A" = Wires #152 & 152A
"S" = Wire #4
"F" = Wire #35

For trucks with Amp meter:
"I" = Not Used
"A" = Wires #152 & 152A
"S" = Wire #904
"F" = Wire #35

Come to think of it, "S" may stand for "Stator" if there's an Amp Indicator.

Last edited by Thipdar; 04-19-2010 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Additional Info
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-28-2014, 10:46 PM
UNTAMND's Avatar
UNTAMND UNTAMND is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 3,026
UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.
Regulator gets switched power.
Regulator goes to S which is stator and F which is field. (regulator adjusts voltage to f to regulate charging. More voltage to f the more it charges until it self destructs... If it could)
__________________
JR Strout..aim UNTAMND..00psd4x4ccsbLariet37sTwinTurbo
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=untamnd#g/u
90 F150 xlt lariat supercab 4x4 long bed 5.8 auto red interior (stock for now) 61000miles
67 Mustang GTA Fastback 390 UNTAMND.com
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-29-2014, 01:26 AM
351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4 351Cleveland C4 is online now
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
Posts: 2,456
351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.
Old thread, huh?

Easiest way to fix all the charging problems is by far the 3G swap. It completely eliminates the regulator and a whole bunch of wiring.
__________________
Gas is great, but Diesel kicks Gas
'71 F100 351C 2V, Edelbrock Power Pack, AOD trans
and 7 other fords...
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-29-2014, 01:40 AM
UNTAMND's Avatar
UNTAMND UNTAMND is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 3,026
UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.UNTAMND has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4 View Post
Old thread, huh?

Easiest way to fix all the charging problems is by far the 3G swap. It completely eliminates the regulator and a whole bunch of wiring.
Holy crap!!! Yeah
I replied to the op other thread (ebrake not staying engaged), and then because he only had 5 posts I figured I'd see where else he posted... And apparently he last posted in 2010. Haha. I didn't even look at the dates.

Easiest way.... Buy a 100a gm 1wire, drill mounting hole to 1/2" and bolt it in place. Anything with external regulator I get rid of. And the gm alt is super cheap.
__________________
JR Strout..aim UNTAMND..00psd4x4ccsbLariet37sTwinTurbo
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=untamnd#g/u
90 F150 xlt lariat supercab 4x4 long bed 5.8 auto red interior (stock for now) 61000miles
67 Mustang GTA Fastback 390 UNTAMND.com
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-29-2014, 01:42 AM
clarkbre's Avatar
clarkbre clarkbre is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 45
clarkbre is starting off with a positive reputation.
Hey guys. Glad to be back. Sadly, my brother and I corrected the issue then he never did anything with the truck. He sold it a year later for a 10% loss.

I, on the other hand, became a happy owner of a 1990 F150 XLT Lariat on Sunday so I will be back and posting. It feels good to have a truck in the driveway!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-29-2014, 01:44 AM
351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4 351Cleveland C4 is online now
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
Posts: 2,456
351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.351Cleveland C4 has a good reputation on FTE.
Welcome back Clark!
__________________
Gas is great, but Diesel kicks Gas
'71 F100 351C 2V, Edelbrock Power Pack, AOD trans
and 7 other fords...
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-29-2014, 02:33 AM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is online now
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 54,695
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by MidMich67 View Post
Glad Im not the only one this is happening to. So I will enlighten you on what I did. Got the truck going this summer and put a new deep cycle Interstate battery in it. Made it all summer and into January before I started having problems. Did a Starting and Charging system test on it and determined the alternator was bad. Put a new Motorcraft in it. literally lasted a week and once again bad battery. So got it warrantied and still wasnt charging. Went to Napa and got a new voltage regulator and it charged once again for about a week. after going through all the same steps as you did and another regulater I got upset.

My father ended up being the genius and put a electronic voltage regulator off a late 70's Ford. Haven't had a problem since.
Motorcraft electronic alternator voltage regulator introduced in 1982 (E2PZ-10316-A / Motorcraft GR-540-A), replaced the points type alternator regulators used 1963/81.

Regulator has a flatish aluminum cover with MOTORCRAFT embossed on it.

E2PZ-10316-A was replaced in 1990 by FOPZ-10316-A / Motorcraft GR-540-B
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-29-2014, 05:54 PM
Alex from GA Alex from GA is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Gainesville, GA
Posts: 553
Alex from GA is starting off with a positive reputation.
About 30 years ago I went with a GM one wire internally regulated alternator also. It's lasted this long so far.
Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2014, 05:54 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1967, 1970, 2005, 360, battery, charging, circuit, electronic, f250, ford, ground, motorcraft, picture, printed, problems, regulator, truck, voltage, wiring

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
3 Post to 4 Post Alternator Question clarkbre 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 04-28-2014 10:40 PM
2000 Ford Expedition xlt battery saver relay clicking no start websurfer Expedition & Navigator 6 08-03-2013 06:25 PM
My shoulder harnesss mount mod 84espy 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 8 04-12-2013 12:10 AM
She lives… But one issue remains. cbr600rx7 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 9 03-19-2013 06:16 PM
Trouble reinstalling headlight switch knob Don.Padou 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 11-07-2012 05:06 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup