is an 2002 4.0 one of the dreaded timing chain problem engines?


thanks wayne

 

Yes. I got screwed by one yesterday to the tune of $5500.00. Thanks Ford. Next truck after I take my beating from this POS Ford is going to be a Chevy or Toyota. I had this truck for 6 days, put 50 miles on it. The chain went and it ruined the engine. Gave ZERO warning.

 

so what would anyone recommend preventative maintenance for these timing chain bombs?

 

The best you can do is spend the $1500.00 to have the chains...yes, chains(there are three of these dreded things)changed. The engine has to be pulled. Ford dropped the ball big time. I paid $5100.00 for my 2002 Explorer this past Sunday. Yesterday my wife was driving it to work and it quit. No warning, no noise prior. No nothing. Four cylinders were running at 50 pounds, one at zero. Damaged the pistons. The best thing to do is sell it before the problem comes. I am going to go ahead and buy another engine but when the warranty gets close to expiring, It is for sale...

 

thanks for your input

Would anyone recommend changing the guides and tensioner as a pm to prevent this failure?

Does anyone have repair guide for doing this job?

 

Not sure but I am assuming that the only fix would involve pulling engine. Not clear on this though. I am going to talk to the guy that is ordering my engine Monday and find out if there is possibly another type of an engine out there that doesn't have the plastic tensioner in it. A dervice person told me that as long as you keep the oil changed and level up that there shouldn't be any trouble. I just find it hard to take in when I talked to another guy that had this happen when he turned only 35,000 miles on the truck which he bought new. I am still collecting info on this.

 

no thoughts on changing the guides and tens as a PM?

 

The 2002 and up 4wd model Explorer's are supposed to come with only 1 timing chain up front, the 2wd used the old type 3 chains; then in 2004 and up all used the updated engine.

 

so could i change the tensioners and guides without all of the special tools i see listed in my alldata manual?

 

With the 3 chain motor, you have to pull the engine, or so I've heard.

Chain 1: crank to a blank shaft where the original cam was for the OHV engine.

Chain 2: Off that shaft to the driver side cam.

Chain 3: Of that shaft at the rear of the engine for the passenger side cam.

If you had it down for the guides and tensioners, you might as well replace the chains.

My '98 has 92,000. Maybe time to sell......

 

welll it talk about no timing marks in my manual that you need special tools to do chains thats why i would just do guides and tensioners how would i know if it has a the rear chain?

 

If it has two chains up front, with one going to the driver side, then there has to be the third chain in back.

Special tools? Like a gear puller? Do it right or have it done. You're wasting your time to just replace the soft parts as the major part of this job is the labor. Replace EVERYTHING once it's apart.

What's the cost of the tools or even paying for the job compared to the cost of replacing the pistons and everything that goes with that?

 

tools are about 200 bucks

One of you guys said 2002 plus everything will be in the front is there anyway to verify that? prior to getting in and going o****

thanks wayne

 

well after reading all of the post about this problem and the TSB's I have an extended warranty for another 5000 miles with 100 deductable so im going to try and get it fix for 100 bucks

thank wayne

 

This thread only serves to reinforce my conviction that I will stay with the I-6 300s, Windsors, and 385 series engines. Perhaps an enterprising gearhead/T-shirtmaker could develop and market a product with a suitable picture and slogan along the line of: "If the Lord meant for camshafts to be overhead He would not have given us pushrods".

dn.