I have a 2005 F150 King Ranch with 20500 miles. Looks like oil pan seal is leaking in the rear. I put a tweak on the bolts and it may have slowed or stopped...not sure yet. Not under warranty so I may replace it myself. I remember in my old truck I had to remove the engine mount bolts to jack up the motor to get it off. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience doing this.

thx

Bob

 

I have an '05 Lariat (5.4) and the pan gasket was leaking. I bought the new gasket at Advance along with some fresh RTV. Aside from lifting the front of the truck for easier access, I did not release the motor mounts and jack the motor. I did remove a cross piece below the pan. Four bolts to remove that piece and I had fairly easy access to all the pan bolts. The only difficulty I ran into was access to the forward pan bolts. I believe I used a 1/4" drive with a universal joint to get up into the tight area the best I could. I was able to accurately torque all the bolts upon reinstall except for the front ones because of the steering rack so I "felt" the torque. It has been fine ever since with no leakage.

 

Nope...there more to it. In the process of removing upper fan shroud and engine mounts. Not sure if I'll have to drain the antifreeze and remove a hose or not. I'll probably be jackin up the motor by the time anyone replies. Sum of the pan bolts were a hoot to get out too!!

 

Sorry. I just now noticed you have a 4 X 4. Mine is not so that probably explains the difference. Mine was fairly easy. Good luck.

 

I appreciate the input!! I'm stuck on the motor mounts. Mounts look offset with the passenger side being futher to the rear. From underneath on the passenger side I can see two 3/4"+ nuts on vertical bolts. Looks to be the bottom [/B]of the engine mount. Not sure if the bolts are stationary or require a wrench on top. I can't access the top. The drivers side is a
~~3/4"+X 4" bolt going forward thru the mount horozontally. Not sure if it's has a stationary nut on the other end or not. I can't acces the back side nut. Would have to remove front pumpkin ball etc... I await you wisdom!!

 

Service manual doesn't mention the motor mounts. Still looks like a big 'o headache though...

Removal
All vehicles
1.With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2.Drain the engine oil.
3.Remove the 4 bolts and the frame crossmember.
4.Detach the starter wiring harness support bracket.

4WD vehicles
5.Position a suitable hydraulic Jack under the front axle. Securely strap the Jack to the axle.
6.NOTE: Rotate the steering column so the pinch bolt for the steering column coupling allows clearance for the isolator bolt. Remove the upper front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt.
7.Remove the axle shaft housing carrier bushing bolt.
8.Remove the lower front axle carrier mounting bushing bolt.
9.CAUTION: Use care when lowering the front axle housing, or the vacuum lines to the axle solenoid may become disconnected or damaged. Lower the axle to allow clearance for the oil pan to be removed.
All vehicles
10.NOTE: Be careful when removing the oil pan gasket. It is reusable. Remove the 16 bolts, the oil pan and the gaskets.
•Inspect the oil pan gasket for damage.
•If damaged, discard the oil pan gasket and the oil pan-to-oil pump gaskets.

Installation
All vehicles
1.CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant. Inspect the oil pan. Clean the mating surface for the oil pan with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
2.NOTE: If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or 4 minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
3.NOTE: If not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or 4 minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage. Apply silicone gasket and sealant at the engine front cover-to-cylinder block sealing surface.
4.Install the oil pan gasket and the oil pan and loosely install the 16 bolts.
5.Tighten the bolts in 3 stages, in the sequence shown.
•Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.) .
•Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
•Stage 3: Tighten an additional 60 degrees .

4WD vehicles
6.CAUTION: Use care when positioning the front axle housing, or the vacuum lines to the axle solenoid may become disconnected or damaged. Position the front axle housing and loosely install the 3 bolts, aligning the bolt location marks made during removal.
7.Install the front axle housing RH mounting bolt.
•Tighten to 89 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) .
8.Install the front axle housing LH front mounting bolt.
•Tighten to 89 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) .
9.Install the front axle housing LH rear mounting bolt.
•Tighten to 89 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) .
All vehicles
10.Position the frame crossmember and the 4 bolts.
•Tighten to 102 Nm (75 ft. lbs.) .
11.Attach the starter wiring harness support bracket.
12.Fill the crankcase with clean engine oil.

 

Yup that's pretty much what i did. The upper diff bolt had to be turned 500 times with a 15mm closed end, angled wrench with your finger tips. Should be hoot getting back in. The instructions for applying the rtv are a little wordy. Hope it don't leak. The tranny cooler lines are a tad in the way...not sure about removing them. I don't think I can can the pan back on cleanly the way it is now.

 

I have the pan back on a torqued to 2nM. I used a bead of Ultra Black Permatex in the front and rear of the block. How long should I wait to
re-torque.?

 

Hey Bridge....what are the torque specs for the (4) throttle body bolts on a 05 F150, 5.4L