Hey Gang....

My slave cylinder is leaking big time (4.9 ZF 5 speed 4x4) and I'm growing tired of pouring brake fluid thru it with increasing regularity. I recognize I'll have to drop the transfer case and trans to replace it. While I'm in there, I might just as well replace the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bushing. The truck has 140k mileage and I don't know if the clutch assy. has ever been replaced.

My questions are revolving around whose parts to get for this effort. I don't want to have to drop the trans and transfer case again anytime soon so..... Do I get Ford stuff? Does anyone have a preference on another manufacturer? Do I need to replace the flywheel? Is there anything I'm missing?

All opinions appreciated...... Thanx! BTV

 

Get good parts from a big-name parts store, like NAPA, CarQuest, or All-Pro. Cheaper places (like Advance, O'Reilly, or Parts+) are usually OK, but a little more risk. I'd definitely stay away from the bottom-of-the-barrel places like Discount & the Zone . Ford parts are probably as good as NAPA, but cost -2-3x as much and have almost no warranty. Have the flywheel resurfaced & balanced, and consider replacing the rear main seal and freeze plugs.

 

I would even consider doing the clutch master and the line to the slave. Also shoot the bucks on the Ford slave cylinder or at least the Napa one. A friend of mine did his slave clutch etc 15,000 miles ago (used the non Ford) and the slave is leaking again. I did mine about 30,000 miles ago (used Ford slave/master) no problems. Steve is right though do as much as you can while you have the trans out. Do the trans mount and u-joints too.


PATS2002

 

Thanx for the responses, I appreciate the input.

Is anyone's clutch kit better than another? Any upgrades available? My choice for auto parts is usually NAPA or Ford so I guess I'm headed in the proper direction there.

The rear main is the one piece style, correct?

Wondered also about having the flywheel cut. If I have it cut, resurfaced, whatever; does the slave cylinder still have enough throw to disengage the clutch? Wouldn't it ultimately kill the slave cylinder prematurely? Overextention or something?

Also, I seem to have no issues with the clutch master or the line running to the slave cylinder. If I'm successful with the proper line removal tool at the slave cylinder, do the master and the line need replaced at this time? The master and the line are in good order. No leaks in the truck from the rear of the master, and while I don't have X-ray vision, the line seems to be great also.

Thanx again for the input..... Definately helpful.... Later BTV

 

I wouldn't mess with "upgrades" unless you have a torquemonster that ruined this clutch by slipping it.

One piece.

Cutting the flywheel thinner will allow the slave to move LESS than before - it operates thru the lever of the pressure plate's diaphragm, so the slave ends move away from the flywheel as the pressure plate ends move toward it.

Ford recommends replacing the master, line, & slave as a unit, but I know people who have successfully replaced only one piece.

 

Thanx Steve! Are you sure about the flywheel? Cutting it thinner moves the slave cylinder less? Is there a shim or something that maintains the location of the flywheel? I'm not getting the big picture I guess.......

Oh.... One more question.... Does a clutch and associated assemblies ever fail when it's warm and sunny outside? Single digit temperatures and a few inches of snow will make for a wonderful experience. Later BTV

 

My mechanic says he always gets clutch components from Ford. He makes less money on them, but he has more confidence that the same person won't be back in next week when aftermarket clutch components have failed. Check on the type of hydraulic clutch you have, some can have the individual components replaced, some have to have the entire system replaced at the same time. I think it has to do with being able to bleed the system or not.

 

Yes. The slave adjusts itself automatically every time you let off the pedal, so no shim is needed. It's like a see-saw - if the low end goes lower, then the high end goes higher. Imagine that the ground is the flywheel and the sky is the slave cylinder. If you lower the ground, then the high end of the see-saw will move higher into the sky.
Murphy says NO.

 

Use "Brute Force" brand..........one of the best in the business....