So i just bought an 87 bronco 2 eddie bauer with a 2.9 and a 5 speed. the lady i got it from said it needed a slave cylinder. well i looked under the truck and saw that the hose that goes from the master cylinder to the slave had somehow popped out of the bellhousing??? how does it reattach? i tried to pop it back in but it seems like it wouldnt go down all the way? could really use some help im used to all mechanical linkages on my old 66 f250.

 

1986-90 Models
See Figure 1

Fig. 1: Slave cylinder found on 1986-90 models

Removal:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission, using the clutch coupling removal tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the tube.

3. Remove the transmission assembly.

On the 2.9L (4WD) vehicles, the clutch housing must be removed with the transmission assembly.

4. Remove the slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.

5. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft.


To install:
6. Fit the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the left side of the transmission.

7. Install the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Torque to 13-19 ft. lbs. (18-26Nm).

8. Install the transmission.

9. Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.

10. Bleed the system.

11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.


BLEEDING THE SYSTEM

The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.

1. Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.

2. Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.

To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.

3. Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.

The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.

4. Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.

5. Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.

6. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.

7. Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.

8. Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.

9. Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.

10. Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.

 

The 86-87 had a hair pin that went into a hole to hold the 2 parts in place, I have lost that pin in the past. Started carrying a new pin and b-fluid.
Is it just the hose that is off or is there a metal piece on the hod of the line?

Ray

 

RClem, are you talking about the master cylinder or slave? I know the '86 and '87 models both have a roll pin on the master cylinder end, but have not seen anything saying there is also one on the slave end inside the bellhousing. That would make it kind of difficult and prompt you to want to disconnect the end at the master and take the entire transmission out every time ....

I am personally going to modify the setup on my '87 when I do the clutch and install a flex hose with AN fittings on either end (among other things) so I don't have to deal with those darn quirks. They really did not make it very easy to bleed the clutch or mess with the slave / hydraulic line - without paying stealership prices for special tools

 

>the hose that goes from the master cylinder to the slave had somehow popped out of the bellhousing?

If you mean the one that sticks out of the bell housing, the plastic broke, you need a new slave cyl. You see ads on CL "just needs to be bled", no, it "just needs a new slave cyl and clutch"

 

Well i just went and got a repair manual for it, and when i look at the pictures it shows a little piece of plastic that goes around the fitting at the bellhousing. that plastic piece is nowhere to be found. so is that a part of the slave or is it just a piece that pops in the hole on the bellhousing then the line goes in it? in the book they just say "To disconnect the hydraulic line, use a special tool to press the white sleeve toward the trannsmission while pulling gently on the line" thats the piece thats missing. but in a picture on line that white sleeve is not a part of the slave. i like my mechanical clutch in my '66.

 

^^^^^^ can't get any more plain than that. It needs a new slave cylinder. I'm going to have to take a look at mine and see if I can engineer a workaround when I do my 4.0 clutch swap - even if it includes doing some sort of hard line to penetrate the bellhousing.

I do and don't like mechanical linkage clutches. Cable-operated ones are a pain and the mechanical link / z-bar setups on the older F-series trucks are far from 'maintenance-free' - but they are much better than cable-operated setups, IMO. Not saying hydraulic clutches are perfect by no means, either. Everything has it's quirks, just got to work with it, you know?

 

Look some what like this?[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
The plastic ring can be gotten from a dealer. Until you can get one, wrap a short piece of sheet metal around it and push it in while pulling the connector out.

Ray

 

<a href="http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii205/jr620226/?action=view&current=hose.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii205/jr620226/hose.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
by the white arrrow is a small hole. the hose goes into the small hole with a white piece of plastic. there is no way it could be attached to the slave because it goes in from the outside.

 

Since I can't see Photobucket images while on the work computer.... which of the follwing does the slave look like?

THIS:


OR THIS:


... both look like they could be re-engineered somehow to make things better

 

I dont acually have it out of the truck yet. but from the research i have done i would say the lower one.

 

If that is the case, the '86-'90 procedure in the book is wrong, or so it would seem. There's a hole for a roll pin, or so it looks like to me, on the hydraulic line coupling:



If that is the case, then you should be able to put the line in and put a new roll pin in and be good to go. I'd like to figure out the dimensions of that (both) ends of the hydraulic line so I could make a fitting that could stay in place permanently and convert it over to AN connectors so I could just run a flex hose or something. I really don't like how these are set up, I like the external slave setup better.

 

The style Kernel is showing is what came stock on 86-88, 90 had both styles, dependent on the transmission.
Use a piece of wire about 3" long, bend one end over about an inch then put the long end in the hole till you have about an inch sticking out and bend the end sticking out to form a sort of "u" shape. This will leave you some movement of the wire, very important if you ever take it apart again. Just cut the wire and pull it apart.

Ray

 

Does he need a new slave? looks like he needs Clutch master cyl, it comes with those QDC ends attached to it.

 

He should only need a new slave if the one he has is leaking, (that is very possible). The long nose on the hose end fits into the slave and is pushed in till it bottoms out on the shoulder, that is supposed to make it so the groove behind the shoulder is lined up with the hole in the slave that accepts the pin, wire is my recommendation as I lost a couple while wheeling. It is a tight fit to put anything in the hole to hold the pieces together.

Ray