Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Bronco II
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Bronco II Ford Bronco II

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 02:19 AM
HughJasdik's Avatar
HughJasdik HughJasdik is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 57
HughJasdik is starting off with a positive reputation.
hydraulic clutch hose?

So i just bought an 87 bronco 2 eddie bauer with a 2.9 and a 5 speed. the lady i got it from said it needed a slave cylinder. well i looked under the truck and saw that the hose that goes from the master cylinder to the slave had somehow popped out of the bellhousing??? how does it reattach? i tried to pop it back in but it seems like it wouldnt go down all the way? could really use some help im used to all mechanical linkages on my old 66 f250.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:02 AM
kernel-panic's Avatar
kernel-panic kernel-panic is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Posts: 1,915
kernel-panic is starting off with a positive reputation.
1986-90 Models
See Figure 1
Click the image to open in full size.
Fig. 1: Slave cylinder found on 1986-90 models

Removal:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission, using the clutch coupling removal tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the tube.

3. Remove the transmission assembly.

On the 2.9L (4WD) vehicles, the clutch housing must be removed with the transmission assembly.

4. Remove the slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.

5. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft.


To install:
6. Fit the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the left side of the transmission.

7. Install the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Torque to 13-19 ft. lbs. (18-26Nm).

8. Install the transmission.

9. Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.

10. Bleed the system.

11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.


BLEEDING THE SYSTEM

The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.

1. Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.

2. Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.

To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.

3. Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.

The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.

4. Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.

5. Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.

6. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.

7. Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.

8. Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.

9. Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.

10. Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.
__________________
-1987 Bronco II XLT 2.9L V-6 5-Spd 4x4 'xplorer coils & leafs, MT/R 30x9.50s, 2 1/2" cat-back
-1989 Bronco II XLT 2.9L A4LD 4x4
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab SR5 3.4L V-6 5-Spd 4WD (K&N air, all else is bone stock!)
-1994 Chevy 2500 5.7L 5-speed
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 12:06 PM
RClem RClem is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
RClem is starting off with a positive reputation.
The 86-87 had a hair pin that went into a hole to hold the 2 parts in place, I have lost that pin in the past. Started carrying a new pin and b-fluid.
Is it just the hose that is off or is there a metal piece on the hod of the line?

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:22 PM
kernel-panic's Avatar
kernel-panic kernel-panic is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Posts: 1,915
kernel-panic is starting off with a positive reputation.
RClem, are you talking about the master cylinder or slave? I know the '86 and '87 models both have a roll pin on the master cylinder end, but have not seen anything saying there is also one on the slave end inside the bellhousing. That would make it kind of difficult and prompt you to want to disconnect the end at the master and take the entire transmission out every time ....

I am personally going to modify the setup on my '87 when I do the clutch and install a flex hose with AN fittings on either end (among other things) so I don't have to deal with those darn quirks. They really did not make it very easy to bleed the clutch or mess with the slave / hydraulic line - without paying stealership prices for special tools
__________________
-1987 Bronco II XLT 2.9L V-6 5-Spd 4x4 'xplorer coils & leafs, MT/R 30x9.50s, 2 1/2" cat-back
-1989 Bronco II XLT 2.9L A4LD 4x4
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab SR5 3.4L V-6 5-Spd 4WD (K&N air, all else is bone stock!)
-1994 Chevy 2500 5.7L 5-speed
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:51 PM
rebocardo rebocardo is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 13,873
rebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud ofrebocardo has much to be proud of
>the hose that goes from the master cylinder to the slave had somehow popped out of the bellhousing?

If you mean the one that sticks out of the bell housing, the plastic broke, you need a new slave cyl. You see ads on CL "just needs to be bled", no, it "just needs a new slave cyl and clutch"
__________________
The Year 2010 Anno Domini - May it bring a great year of Revelations to you.

Libraries are like art museums for the printed word.

Bronco IIs and 4x4 E-series -
the best Fords, because I own them!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 02:04 AM
HughJasdik's Avatar
HughJasdik HughJasdik is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 57
HughJasdik is starting off with a positive reputation.
Well i just went and got a repair manual for it, and when i look at the pictures it shows a little piece of plastic that goes around the fitting at the bellhousing. that plastic piece is nowhere to be found. so is that a part of the slave or is it just a piece that pops in the hole on the bellhousing then the line goes in it? in the book they just say "To disconnect the hydraulic line, use a special tool to press the white sleeve toward the trannsmission while pulling gently on the line" thats the piece thats missing. but in a picture on line that white sleeve is not a part of the slave. i like my mechanical clutch in my '66.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 03:30 AM
kernel-panic's Avatar
kernel-panic kernel-panic is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Posts: 1,915
kernel-panic is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebocardo View Post
If you mean the one that sticks out of the bell housing, the plastic broke, you need a new slave cyl. You see ads on CL "just needs to be bled", no, it "just needs a new slave cyl and clutch"
^^^^^^ can't get any more plain than that. It needs a new slave cylinder. I'm going to have to take a look at mine and see if I can engineer a workaround when I do my 4.0 clutch swap - even if it includes doing some sort of hard line to penetrate the bellhousing.

I do and don't like mechanical linkage clutches. Cable-operated ones are a pain and the mechanical link / z-bar setups on the older F-series trucks are far from 'maintenance-free' - but they are much better than cable-operated setups, IMO. Not saying hydraulic clutches are perfect by no means, either. Everything has it's quirks, just got to work with it, you know?
__________________
-1987 Bronco II XLT 2.9L V-6 5-Spd 4x4 'xplorer coils & leafs, MT/R 30x9.50s, 2 1/2" cat-back
-1989 Bronco II XLT 2.9L A4LD 4x4
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab SR5 3.4L V-6 5-Spd 4WD (K&N air, all else is bone stock!)
-1994 Chevy 2500 5.7L 5-speed
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 01:09 PM
RClem RClem is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
RClem is starting off with a positive reputation.
Look some what like this?[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.[/IMG]
The plastic ring can be gotten from a dealer. Until you can get one, wrap a short piece of sheet metal around it and push it in while pulling the connector out.

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 11:09 PM
HughJasdik's Avatar
HughJasdik HughJasdik is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 57
HughJasdik is starting off with a positive reputation.
Photobucket
by the white arrrow is a small hole. the hose goes into the small hole with a white piece of plastic. there is no way it could be attached to the slave because it goes in from the outside.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2010, 01:22 AM
kernel-panic's Avatar
kernel-panic kernel-panic is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Posts: 1,915
kernel-panic is starting off with a positive reputation.
Since I can't see Photobucket images while on the work computer.... which of the follwing does the slave look like?

THIS:
Click the image to open in full size.

OR THIS:
Click the image to open in full size.

... both look like they could be re-engineered somehow to make things better
__________________
-1987 Bronco II XLT 2.9L V-6 5-Spd 4x4 'xplorer coils & leafs, MT/R 30x9.50s, 2 1/2" cat-back
-1989 Bronco II XLT 2.9L A4LD 4x4
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab SR5 3.4L V-6 5-Spd 4WD (K&N air, all else is bone stock!)
-1994 Chevy 2500 5.7L 5-speed
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2010, 01:30 AM
HughJasdik's Avatar
HughJasdik HughJasdik is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: southern oregon
Posts: 57
HughJasdik is starting off with a positive reputation.
I dont acually have it out of the truck yet. but from the research i have done i would say the lower one.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2010, 03:32 AM
kernel-panic's Avatar
kernel-panic kernel-panic is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Posts: 1,915
kernel-panic is starting off with a positive reputation.
If that is the case, the '86-'90 procedure in the book is wrong, or so it would seem. There's a hole for a roll pin, or so it looks like to me, on the hydraulic line coupling:

Click the image to open in full size.

If that is the case, then you should be able to put the line in and put a new roll pin in and be good to go. I'd like to figure out the dimensions of that (both) ends of the hydraulic line so I could make a fitting that could stay in place permanently and convert it over to AN connectors so I could just run a flex hose or something. I really don't like how these are set up, I like the external slave setup better.
__________________
-1987 Bronco II XLT 2.9L V-6 5-Spd 4x4 'xplorer coils & leafs, MT/R 30x9.50s, 2 1/2" cat-back
-1989 Bronco II XLT 2.9L A4LD 4x4
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab SR5 3.4L V-6 5-Spd 4WD (K&N air, all else is bone stock!)
-1994 Chevy 2500 5.7L 5-speed
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:43 AM
RClem RClem is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
RClem is starting off with a positive reputation.
The style Kernel is showing is what came stock on 86-88, 90 had both styles, dependent on the transmission.
Use a piece of wire about 3" long, bend one end over about an inch then put the long end in the hole till you have about an inch sticking out and bend the end sticking out to form a sort of "u" shape. This will leave you some movement of the wire, very important if you ever take it apart again. Just cut the wire and pull it apart.

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2010, 07:54 AM
Mattb6679 Mattb6679 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 17
Mattb6679 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Does he need a new slave? looks like he needs Clutch master cyl, it comes with those QDC ends attached to it.
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2010, 09:39 AM
RClem RClem is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 14
RClem is starting off with a positive reputation.
He should only need a new slave if the one he has is leaking, (that is very possible). The long nose on the hose end fits into the slave and is pushed in till it bottoms out on the shoulder, that is supposed to make it so the groove behind the shoulder is lined up with the hole in the slave that accepts the pin, wire is my recommendation as I lost a couple while wheeling. It is a tight fit to put anything in the hole to hold the pieces together.

Ray
Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2010, 09:39 AM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Bronco II

Tags
1987, 89, bronco, clutch, cylinder, diaphragm, disconnect, ford, hydraulic, instal, line, removal, remove, reservoir, slave, tool

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.5.2 ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup