Hi,
I'm looking to do new bearings and rotors on a 99 f150 4x2 on the front. I've got some warp on the rotors... I think they are the originals and have been turned by the previous owner. I'm doing the bearings because I just got new tires and was told that I had some play in the passenger bearing. I was just wondering if you buy new rotors do they usually have the race already installed in them? Or will I have to press them in?... If I do have to press them in, would that be something to take to a shop or is there a way to do it at home. By the way, I'm planning on Duralast gold rotors (around 70 bucks a piece) and pads (about 35 dollars) (semi metallic)... anyone have experience with them? I'm not an aggressive driver so I don't think I need any high performance parts. As for bearings... I'm not sure, any suggestions would be appreciated... though I don't really want to break the bank.. Thanks in advance

 

New rotors usually have races in them already.

I have always read that you should use the races that come with the new bearings, but having no way to press new races in I always used the races that were in the rotors and I never had any problems. I also have used old bearings with the new races in rotors with out any issues.

I'm sure that someone somewhere has some horror story of bearing failure due to not using the races that came with the bearings, so your "mileage may vary".......
Just visually inspect your old parts (bearings or races) to make sure there is no damage and pack them well with good quality grease

I've used Duralast rotors with no issues.
I usually get the mid priced ones. They all probably come from the same foundry in China anyway.

 

Thanks for the Reply n3up. I am thinking that if I'm going with new bearings and new rotors it shouldn't be a problem. I could see where it could possibly cause issues using (for instance) an old race with new bearing, as there might be some wear or grooves that aren't visible to the naked eye that could cause undesired outcomes... maybe like putting new brake pads on ridged rotors...you just won't get the life out of them. That shouldn't be the case with new rotors and bearings I wouldn't think. I was wondering what kind of pads do you run? I've heard some pretty good things about the duralast gold. Also, do the brand of bearings matter? They are kind of like everything else on the truck, you can really pay what you want to? I think i'm kind of like you, I shoot for the mid range price items. Also I was thinking to use Mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease... about 8 bucks at autozone. I also saw a bearing driver set at Harbor freight for about 30 bucks... I'm sure a shop would probably charge about that to press the races in... so maybe that would be the way to go if decide to put the new races in. Just not sure how hard it is to do it...

 

Not sure what the production date is on your truck,but we offer these brake pad and rotor kits for a late 99

Ford F150 Brake Pad & Rotor Kit

 

Your choice and your money but I would highly recommend ceramic brake pads, and be sure to wash the new rotors with water and dish soap before installing.

 

Or CRC Brakleen doesn't require "scrubbing" or drying...it evaporates after taking off all the shipping grease and junk

 

Hi and thanks for the replys. I was actually staying away from ceramic pads because I had read they can be hard on the rotors... really the price of them isn't that much more. The biggest concern i had was putting the new bearings in the races that come on the new rotors. Has anyone had any trouble with doing this? I had done some reading on "matched" bearings and races, but it seems like that might be for high performance situations... not a commuter truck. Please let me know your thoughts. I priced things at autozone, timken bearings/seal, regular duralast rotor (they don't have the golds for my truck) and duralast gold pads around 250 bucks. Went to kragen... raybestos/aimco rotors, national bearings/seals, forgot to price pads and it was 150, I assume pads will run about 40-60 bucks so it is a bit cheaper, but the parts were only one year warranty and two year at autozone. Let me know what you think.

 

many bearing companies sell the inner bearing and outer cone seperate. THey are not a matched set. That being said, it is not a real good idea to mix a new bearing with an old cone, or mix a bearing from company A with a cone from company B. You might get by, but a wheel bearing gets a lot of use, and i would not mix and match. Normally outer races are not hard to install, you take a punch and poke them out from the back side, then tap the new race into position. done beat too hard on the edge and roll a lip or distorte it.

 

Thanks steve for the reply. Would you use any special tool to set the new race or is there any way to do it with out the driver tools. I really don't want to have to buy a whole set of bearing drivers (not sure if that is the correct name) to only use one size this one time. If anybody has any shade tree mechanic tips for it please let me know.

 

couple of ways to install the new bearing race.
1. set the new race in, use your old bearing & a large socket to tap it in.
2. rent a bearing race driver set from a parts store.
3.- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Question for everyone. The front Bearing retainer ring from Ford are made of nylon, and from NAPA the retainer rings are made of steel. which is better, seems to me the steel would be better? any opinons???