I've had this idea kickin' around and want to see what you guys think. There's pictures at the bottom to make some of this gibberish a little more clear.
I want to have my high idle on a toggle switch so that I can flip the switch and have the idle at around 1500 RPM for using the transmission PTO. Yes, I could install a throttle cable, but I figured the high idle solenoid is already there. I'd install the toggle switch on the dash and I wouldn't have to cut a hole to pass the throttle cable through the firewall and hack a bracket on the dash...you get the idea
A simple toggle switch on and off could be used effectively, but I'm not only one who drives my truck so it can't be too custom. Since it's cold here in the winter, I like starting the truck and setting the high idle to warm up while I brush my teeth and gather my stuff for the day. By the time I leave, the truck "kicks" itself off high idle by itself. Real nice!
So, I'm thinkin' a 3-way switch is in order: on-off-on
One side of the 'on' would be stock mode
The other 'on' side would be Manual on.
I'd cut the wire before the high idle solenoid on the Injection Pump and run the existing stock wire to the 'Stock Mode' power terminal entering the switch, and exiting on the ACC terminal. The wire would then enter a 'diode', then continue on to the High Idle Solenoid.
This is from a post from 2006: Find a switched power from under your dash panel, run it to a switch, then the other side of the switch to the Solenoid on the Injection Pump... But cut the wire leading up to the solenoid, and install a diode with band side facing towards the solenoid, then land your homemade circuit wire there (between the diode and solenoid). This will keep you from feeding power back into the circuit and also keep you from engaging the timing advance when you manual control is engaged. But the system will still function just like stock, ie. no change will be seen or felt.
go to local radio shack and get a (this is from memory) 4001 diode... I can't seem to remember the part number on the diode but it has a 4001 if I remember correctly...
As for the Manual on side, I'd find a fused wire from the fuse panel that has power when the ignition is on. I'd run that to the power terminal on the 'Manual On' side of the switch, and exit the ACC terminal of the switch and hook to the High Idle Solenoid.
My questions: What is the timing advance? If the diode is meant to prevent backfeed from the High Idle Solenoid, maybe I should install a diode on the 'Manual On' wire also?

Manual Glow Plug Switch Idea
I'd install two switches for this setup. The first inline is a toggle switch. The on position leaves the Glow Plug system to operate stock-running through the controller. The Off position basically disables the Glow Plug system-similar to just unplugging the wire from the Glow Plug Relay
The second switch is the momentary push button switch. It would have a fused power wire from the fuse panel on the power terminal, with a wire going to the Glow Plug Relay on the ACC terminal.

Whenever I drive the rig, I'd turn the Glow Plug toggle switch off, and manually fire the glow plugs. After firing, I'd flip the toggle back to Automatic Stock mode in case someone else needed to borrow the truck. This would keep my glow plugs alive!
Whenever I start the rig to warm up in the morning, I'd leave the High Idle switch on automatic stock mode. If I want to shut it off before it automatically clicks off, I'll flip the toggle to off, then flip it back to automatic stock mode when I shut it off. Whenever I use the PTO, I'd flip the switch to Manual On.

Sounds like a decent way to make things manual for my likings, but keep the stock settings available for when other people use the truck. Sound do-able guys?

This one is the High Idle switch


This one is the Glow Plug switches

 

You don't need a diode with the two way switch. You just need to run two hot wires one from the battery and one from the temp switch and run your wire to the solonoed to the center of the switch.

If you adjust your idle to be 1500 with the manual it will be the same with the temp switch.
What are you using that requires 1500 rpm's I have a fast idle setup on my wrecker but that is too high. lol

 

Several notes here:

1) this is not how a DPDT switch works, it don't bridge the end terminal together one side at a time - instead it bridges one center terminal with the terminal to the right or left of it depending on toggle position, and since it's a DPDT switch and not an SPDT switch it does that to both center terminals at the same time. To achieve what you want you'll need an SPDT switch, hook up your factory and auxiliary power wires to the end terminals, and then run a single wire from the center terminal to the high idle solenoid - basically this way you will be selecting which of the two input wires to bridge with the center output wire to transmit power to the solenoid. As Starmilt said, no diode needed in this setup, as when running on manual you are severing the connection between the solenoid and the factory harness so it cannot feed voltage back through it and to the cold advance inside the IP.

2) glowplugs - your factory controller is an unreliable pain in the posterior, just bypass it entirely and run a momentary switch alone, as when they fail controllers of this kind take out all the GPs with them too.

 

While you're at it, check the GPs to make sure what you are running. If you have the BERUs you can leave them in until they fail, then replace them with a temperature limiting type.

 

Darn. Well it was a cool concept while it lasted.
In the threads I read using the search, the information said to use a diode to keep from backfeeding power to the timing advance. If the timing advance is on while the high idle is on manually, that's not good.
I just threw 1500 out as a number. I figured that was a good speed for keeping the trasmission PTO spinning fast enough. Maybe slower will work.
What's a DPDT switch versus a SPDT. I'm guessing DPDT is a Dual Position ____ ___, and an SPDT is a Single Position ___ ____?
I know the factory controller is unreliable, I've read about guys who hae several fail and they've had horror stories to share with us. Poor guys! The reason I dont bypass it all together is sometimes other people drive my truck. I don't want them to not use the glow plugs and wear out my starter, or use the glow plugs for too long and burn 'em up. I figure 90% of the time, I drive the truck and would manually fire the plugs. At the end of the day, I'd flip the toggle into the stock normal position in case someone has to drive the truck.
Marianna, I've already got your Autolite 1109's. My rig is still on the stock factory controller. I got them because if my factory controller does crap out, hopefully it won't wipe out all my glow plugs before I can react and shut it all off. They also prepare me for the manual glow plugs in case I do have to do just a single gowplug push button. Less chance an inexperienced driver would wipe out my glow plugs!
It was all just a brainstorm, thanks guys for the critique. I appreciate the feedback, it helps me understand things a little better every night!

 

Hooked up like I am talking the advance would not be hot while you had it on manual.
I think crew dually has his set at either 900 or 1100 I.m not sure which. But it will work like you want. My wrecker will put all the driveline pressure on it it needs with the high idle solonoid. My wife took it to the river once to pull out a sanded in scout while I was out of town and I forgot to tell her to just let it idle, it was an 1100 dollar mistake. lol

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I know that AC, Autolite, & Bosch GPs have a tendency to expand when they overheat. I hope you know what's in your IDI. Don't want you to have any unnecessary trouble.

 

Marianna geralt has a new fuel pump thread show him a picture of your epump.

 

Hopefully crewcabdually will see this thread and tell us about his setup. 900 - 1100 would probably be fine. It would definetly be a great RPM for continued use.
Star, you gotta tell us about the repair. What happened?

 

I figured out what the DPDT and SPDT are.
DPDT is 'Dual Post Dual Throw', SPDT is 'Single Post Dual Throw'.
They're available in toggles and rockers from what I see.
Now that I understand how the switches work, I FULLY understand what LMAC was talking about. I'm gonna wire it up that way! The end result will have 'Stock Power' one side and 'Manual Power' on the other side.

I don't know what speed to set the High Idle at. I'd like the motor to turn pretty fast so it will turn my PTO hydraulics pretty fast. I guess I'll just tune that when I get my PTO Hydraulics finally all set up and working.

Here's a picture diagram to explain my gibberish


Each side terminal on the switch receives it's own power source. The center terminal sends power to the High Idle Solenoid whichever way the switch is flipped. The Stock Setting will receiver power from the factory wiring that normally is hooked to the High Idle Solenoid. The Manual On setting will receiver power from a fused power source that has power only when the truck ignition is turned on. The switch will also have a center area between the two On's for the Off position.

 

My winch exploded, even had to replace part of the case and the 2"solid shaft that runs through the drum. That price included 150 feet of new cable too.
If your pto and pump is matched right you will not have to idle too fast. What are you going to be running.

 

Yeps, that's just how you wire it up. About the idle speed, you can only get so much out of the factory solenoid - the throw of its plunger is only good for about 200 rpms increase over low idle, so if your base idle is at 650 rpms (factory setting) you will only be able to get 900 rpms out of it, if that. If you can find another solenoid that has more plunger throw then you could get higher fast idle, but I don't know where to get such a solenoid.

 

Actually SPDT is single pole double throw as in on - off - on

If the switch says (on) off on, one side is momentary and one side is a regular switch.

DPDT is double pole double throw.

Just thought I would help with terms.

 

JEEZ star! So all the extra RPM ends up being too much sometimes. WOW! I see your point now!
I have an extensive truck plan, but here's the hydraulic ideas I've got. I'd like to have hydraulic quick-disconnections at the front and rear bumpers on the truck, and also a set mid-mounted on the chassis like behind the cab on the driver's side. I want to run hydraulically-operated skid steer implements (tractors are shaft-driven while skid steers are hydraulic). I have custom bumpers all drawn up on sketch pads with my ideas of integrating the mounting points for the implements, as well as the hitches, hydraulic lines, on-board hydraulic jacks (just hydraulic pistons pointing down to lift the truck off the ground to change tires and level off when I sleep in the truck camper), air lines (from the on-board air source, story another time), and weatherproof 12v plugs. I'd like to be able to tow a utility trailer and have a log splitter mounted on front of the truck when I gather firewood. I can cut it, split it, and toss it in the trailer ad leave the mess of loose bark in the woods. That's just one example, there's a bunch of other implements to use. The hydraulics are also going to power the hydraulic dumping roll-off bed, with the hydraulic winch mounted at the headboard. I have drawings all sketched out with dimensions on building my own "Mini Roll-Off" to have removable bodies so I don't have to keep dedicated trucks around. My single truck can handle 30 bodies ranging from flatbeds, stake sides, enclosed bodies, a service/utility toolbox body, etc. I can drop a body right to ground for un-loading, and pick up loaded bodies. Talk about nice easy loading for like heavy green firewood!

LCAM, I've seen similar plungers on the 80's Jeep CJ's. I'm unsure of how far they plunge, but a lot of the 80's emissions-friendly carbs have had them from what I've noticed. If a Solenoid ends up being a problem for not revving high enough, I'll just do the throttle cable anyways.

Thanks for the clarification Dave, the guys at Napa appreciate it when I know what I want. The kids behind the counter can hardly tell the difference between a toggle switch and a rocker switch. They're older than me, yet I continue to tell THEM how to do THEIR job to find MY parts. I guess that's why I go to Carquest...

Sorry for the long rant guys, I just get excited and want to share my ideas sometimes. Sometimes they're practical, sometimes people have pull me back down to practicality, and sometimes they're outrageous! These ones rank practical with the help of FTE users with constructive criticism! Thanks guys!

 

Yah, worked on plenty of those - the problem is the solenoid is permanently affixed to the mounting bracket, it's spot-welded or kinda-sorta riveted to it through its body, so while you could grab an A/C idle bump solenoid from a carbed vehicle you'll have a rather interesting time bolting it up to the IP. And by the way Archangel is actually my middle name, thanks to my probably a bit too religious grandparents, then my buddies kinda transferred it to my truck too, lol

And I hear ya on them parts guys, that's why I fired my local Advance guys and only shop at AutoZone now. But that's a situation with about any parts store these days, it seems t be getting rather hard to find folks who know their thing...