Help, I'm new too engine mods and need advise
#1
Help, I'm new too engine mods and need advise
I just got a 76' F-150 stock with a 360, I want to upgrade 2 a bigger carb and new intake manifold and I'm not sure what too go with. I want a four barrel and I would like some feedback on what carbs and manifolds you or people you know have gotten good results out of.
Feedback is greatly appreciated, Thank you
Feedback is greatly appreciated, Thank you
#5
#6
Solid info here, and a p-ing contest for entertainment.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-choices.html
The FE suffers from poor exhaust manifolds, so you should consider the exhaust side as well. Good headers aren't cheap, so shop around.
As for the 360, it will only come up so far due to low compression.
Without a teardown, the only other thing to consider after the intake/exhaust is checking your timing set and replacing it with a pre-smog "straight up" set, vs. the retarded cam timing sets used with smog motors after '72 or so.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...e-choices.html
The FE suffers from poor exhaust manifolds, so you should consider the exhaust side as well. Good headers aren't cheap, so shop around.
As for the 360, it will only come up so far due to low compression.
Without a teardown, the only other thing to consider after the intake/exhaust is checking your timing set and replacing it with a pre-smog "straight up" set, vs. the retarded cam timing sets used with smog motors after '72 or so.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Retarded cam timing reduces cylinder pressure, reducing Nox emissions. It also robs low end power and reduces fuel economy.
Google 'retarded cam timing' and find many hits, including a lot on the 351m/400 engines, which also suffered the change. (almost every engine did, but some get talked about more than others)
Retarded Cam Timing
Google 'retarded cam timing' and find many hits, including a lot on the 351m/400 engines, which also suffered the change. (almost every engine did, but some get talked about more than others)
Retarded Cam Timing
#9
A couple of things off the top of my head:
1) 4bbl stock iron intake, or Edelbrock Performer RPM (or just the base performer if you can get it cheap enough) with a 600cfm 4bbl Holley.
2) Swap out the timing set (timing chain and gears) for a pre-1972 360 set, or any year 390 set. The 360s from 1972 and up were setup with the cam timing way retarted (or advanced, I keep forgetting) and it made it a DOG compared to the earlier years. This was for emissions. It shouldn't be too expensive to get a timing cover gasket set (gasket and seal) and a timing set. Just a bit of work, and make sure you get the timing marks aligned right. After that, retime the ignition timing.
3) Headers, even shorties. If you can, find long-tube headers for your chassis type.
4) Delving even deeper into things, a 390 crank and rods swap using your stock 360 pistons. This will bump the compression a bit, but the extra stroke and compression will DEFINITELY make a big difference.
ON EDIT: Thanks 85e150six4mtod for bringing up the cam timing
1) 4bbl stock iron intake, or Edelbrock Performer RPM (or just the base performer if you can get it cheap enough) with a 600cfm 4bbl Holley.
2) Swap out the timing set (timing chain and gears) for a pre-1972 360 set, or any year 390 set. The 360s from 1972 and up were setup with the cam timing way retarted (or advanced, I keep forgetting) and it made it a DOG compared to the earlier years. This was for emissions. It shouldn't be too expensive to get a timing cover gasket set (gasket and seal) and a timing set. Just a bit of work, and make sure you get the timing marks aligned right. After that, retime the ignition timing.
3) Headers, even shorties. If you can, find long-tube headers for your chassis type.
4) Delving even deeper into things, a 390 crank and rods swap using your stock 360 pistons. This will bump the compression a bit, but the extra stroke and compression will DEFINITELY make a big difference.
ON EDIT: Thanks 85e150six4mtod for bringing up the cam timing
#10
Headers
I am doing the same mods on a F100 beef up on a 360 (farm truck / daily driver). Edelbrock 390 intake, 600 cfm Holley, new complete gasket set. I am all done, back in the truck, buttoned up and ready to turn the key less one item. Headers or manifold. I got a set of used headers with the engine, long tube. Where do I see the benefit with the headers? 2,000 rpm? 3,000, 4,000, . . . ?
I am at the decision point, put 16 bolts in and call it a night which is much less work OR cutting and welding flanges under a greasy farm truck. I guess I am hoping to hear compelling evidence from the pro header crowd.
I am at the decision point, put 16 bolts in and call it a night which is much less work OR cutting and welding flanges under a greasy farm truck. I guess I am hoping to hear compelling evidence from the pro header crowd.
#11
#12
I suggest you take up another hobby, like drugs, or gambling. They are less expensive and less addictive!
As stated above, Performer RPM manifold, smaller vacuum secondary Holley, and a set of headers and good flowing mufflers. Timing set is easy and cheap too. Without a teardown, there isn't much else can be done. When I did my first FE, I was amazed at the difference a manifold, carb, and headers made.
When it comes time to do a rebuild, there are many choices available to make good usable gains without breaking the bank.
-Scouder
As stated above, Performer RPM manifold, smaller vacuum secondary Holley, and a set of headers and good flowing mufflers. Timing set is easy and cheap too. Without a teardown, there isn't much else can be done. When I did my first FE, I was amazed at the difference a manifold, carb, and headers made.
When it comes time to do a rebuild, there are many choices available to make good usable gains without breaking the bank.
-Scouder
#13
#14
So, looks like ONLY the 360 had the retarded set (no pun intended)
#15