Power Assist Rocks!!
#16
Wingsrgold you will more than likely need the P/S Control Valve Repair & Seal Kit to fix the problem. The greese packs in the valve and will not let it move. You will have to "rebuild" it by replacing those seals to clean out all the greese. I tore my boot up on the old ball stud removing the controle valve from the pitman arm. It did not want to let go very easy. make sure you have that kit also. Good luck! I have a set of direction on the old computer on how to rebuld them. I can try and find it if you need directions. I think it was like eight pages long.
#17
Wingsrgold you will more than likely need the P/S Control Valve Repair & Seal Kit to fix the problem. The greese packs in the valve and will not let it move. You will have to "rebuild" it by replacing those seals to clean out all the greese.
I tore my boot up on the old ball stud removing the controle valve from the pitman arm. It did not want to let go very easy. make sure you have that kit also. Good luck! I have a set of direction on the old computer on how to rebuld them. I can try and find it if you need directions. I think it was like eight pages long.
I tore my boot up on the old ball stud removing the controle valve from the pitman arm. It did not want to let go very easy. make sure you have that kit also. Good luck! I have a set of direction on the old computer on how to rebuld them. I can try and find it if you need directions. I think it was like eight pages long.
If you have a 1973 F250 4WD, or a 1974 F250 4WD assembled before serial number T80,001, you have GARRISON Power Assist P/S.
The P/S control valve repair procedure used with GARRISON P/S is not the same as used with BENDIX P/S.
The GARRISON P/S control valve is different than the one used with BENDIX P/S. It does not have a ball stud, it uses two short draglinks instead.
These draglinks thread directly into the control valve. A C type clamp w/bolt & nut on each end, keeps the draglinks firmly attached.
#18
#20
If you have a 1973 F250 4WD, or a 1974 F250 4WD assembled before serial number T80,001, you have GARRISON Power Assist P/S.
The P/S control valve repair procedure used with GARRISON P/S is not the same as used with BENDIX P/S.
The GARRISON P/S control valve is different than the one used with BENDIX P/S. It does not have a ball stud, it uses two short draglinks instead.
These draglinks thread directly into the control valve. A C type clamp w/bolt & nut on each end, keeps the draglinks firmly attached.
#21
1974 w/ser. no. U22557/garrison
NumberDummy: I am confused;
My 1974 Highboy w/Serial Number U22557 has the Garrison Control Valve. Am I misunderstanding your info, or
shouldn't my truck have the Bendix system?
My 1974 Highboy w/Serial Number U22557 has the Garrison Control Valve. Am I misunderstanding your info, or
shouldn't my truck have the Bendix system?
Last edited by 4x4 for kids; 09-28-2012 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Removed unnecessary content
#22
According to your serial number yes it should be a Bendix, but after 35-40yrs most of these trucks have been "frankensteined" to one degree or another.
#23
4wd shift pattern
Thanks for the info Montana. Can you identify my shifter pattern, and possibly tell me if I have NP205 or 203 transfer case?
It looks like this:
| LOCK
__| LO
|
N| |LOCK
|__|HI
Also, I don't have a manual for the truck, and am not certain of steps to operate in 4wd and I don't want to damage anything.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
It looks like this:
| LOCK
__| LO
|
N| |LOCK
|__|HI
Also, I don't have a manual for the truck, and am not certain of steps to operate in 4wd and I don't want to damage anything.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
#26
you should look into a powersteering convertion kit by Benchworks steering systems in arizona. i bought the kit and love it Ford F250 Conversion
#27
Benchworks conversion
Adam, I have looked at the possibility. The cost is somewhat intimidating at first, but if it is much better than the stock power assist......
What vehicle is the steering box from? I'm wondering how hard it would be to get rebuilds later on, if it ever becomes necessary?
Thanks.
What vehicle is the steering box from? I'm wondering how hard it would be to get rebuilds later on, if it ever becomes necessary?
Thanks.
#28
i talked to them via email for about a month before ordering it. the price is scary i know but talking to them and having them explain why it is so expensive makes sense tho. the intermidiate shaft (steering column) is heavy duty!!!! its made with borgenson double d shaft with spicer u joints and yokes. the mounting bracket is cnc plasma the holes are very clean and bolts right up. comes with all hard ware hoses and pitman arm the gear box is a fresh remanufactured ford original steering box. the box is like a late 70s 2wd ford box. and they have been around for 20+years i have been referring them for ever
#29
What model truck did you convert? My truck has the closed knuckle axle with drums, no power. I have also been considering the common 78-79 axle swap, which would have the later power steering and power disc brakes, but looks like a lot of work I don't have time or space for. I cannot decide if I should try for disc brakes, or just install a power booster for the drums. Right now, the drum brakes require good leg strength to stop truck.
#30
FYI, that Adam guy is a shill for "Benchworks Steering", he's trying to sell you a kit for $1,100 that you can piece together yourself for around $300, so if you want to go the 78/79 steering route just DIY and save $800