I've read through more threads than I can count but never found a definite answer on the all too common hard/harsh 1-2 shift on a 4R100.

Pretty much my transmissions works wonderfully in my basically stock 84k mile 99 V10 F250 except for the 1-2 shift. When cold, it shifts ok first thing in the morning for a minute or two. Then when everything is warmed up, 1-2 is "neck snapping" and ONLY 1-2. Everything else is fine.

I've read about a broken spring, particularly the accumulator spring. Also noticed something about TPS and shift solenoid.

So I've got a few questions.

1) Where is a good place to source parts to rebuild my valve body? Particularly swapping out the springs.

2) Is there a guide to rebuilding my valve body?

3) Where can I find an electronic copy of a service manual for my 99 V10 Auto 4x4 F250?

I've decided to also change out the tranny fluid to synthetic and filter when I do.

I do NOT tow, so I don't need a beastly transmission but improvement is always a plus. I just need my transmission to work properly. Future (6 months) plans include a small lift 4" and 35" tires max. No major towing plans.

Guide the way gentlemen! I'm all ears!

 

Most of the time I have one of these that has a very hard 1-2 shift and no codes, the problem is in the accumulators part of the valve body. There is a little valve behind the 1-2 accumulator that sticks. I would recommend installing a Trans-go shift kit. The kit will give you a steel valve that replaces the stock aluminum one, it also has the springs for all the other accumulators, I use this kit on all E40Ds and 4R100s I build, it makes these transmissions shift great it will have very detailed instructions to answer all your concerns and a phone number to call for extra assistance if needed.

Here is a quick link to someplace I just found, scroll down to the bottom its the last one, you wont be able to use some of the kit because it requires the transmission to be out and apart but it is still worth it.

Results for SHIFT KITS:TRANSgo SK KITS

 

For a shop manual check out ebay and also fleet.ford.com for a download.

 

Thank you gentlemen for the help.

Unfortunately fleet.ford.com requires a password.I remember someone listing a database jam packed with service manuals on another forum I frequent. I'll see if I can dig it up there.

 

OK, since Koolaid and I seem to be having the exact same issue, and I did verify with the dealer that I have the 4R100 tranny, I'll just reply to this thread so we both get the info.

I am about to purchase the shift kit in the above link. Can anyone who has done this job say what special tools might be needed (snap ring pliers, bottle jack)? Also, how difficult is this repair for someone who has worked on cars, but never worked on a tranny before, and how long does it usually take?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t-install.html Have a read here. It seems to be a good how to.

 

Well, it doesn't look too bad, except for all of the drilling. I wonder if I could just replace the valves and springs to fix the hard shifting?

 

Rex, we seem to be in just the same boat. I was planning on just replacing the parts in the accumulator valve body but I'll do whatever comes in the kit. I've seen kits that just include the parts for the avb. I'm just glad I won't have to mess with those millions of tiny springs and check ***** that are stuck in some valve bodies. That's what worried me.

BTW thanks for the link!

 

Actually, according to the linked instructions it looks like you have to pull the plate that has the check ***** in it and possibly move some check *****. I am worried about the check ***** coming out, and the drilling.

I don't have a drill press, and I am worried that if I move the drill too much that I won't get a perfect hole. I am not sure how tight the tolerances is on the holes, but I would rather just fix the hard shifting problem.

Maybe it's not as big of a deal as it sounds, I just want to be cautious.

I couldn't find a smaller kit except for this one, which does not look like it contains the springs.

E40D 4R100 transmission accumulator valves E40D shift kits

 

You don't have to do the drilling on the separator plate, if I were you guys I would just keep it simple and just remove the acc valve body and replace the springs and the one 1-2 acc valve. This should fix your problem and improve the shifting of the transmission all by itself. You wont have to worry about check ***** or drilling or even unplugging the harness and just so you know the shift kit does not come with valve body gaskets, so if you tear one trying to work on the plate you will be out of luck. Yea you wont be using half the kit but that's ok I don't know of any other kit that just addresses the acc valve body and I am very familiar with the Transgo kit, you should be fine.

*tip*
Use one of the valve body bolts to screw in the end plugs to aid in getting them out of the valve body, you will see when you get there. Use a pick to pop the retaining clips out that hold the plugs in, its ok to bend them up a bit they will straighten out easily.....party on



.

 

That's exactly the answer I was hoping for. I wouldn't mind finding a cheaper kit that has just what we need, but my sister will be happy if I can fix her tranny for less than $100.

Should we go ahead and replace the valves and springs for 3rd and 4th since the springs commonly break?

Thanks guys.

 

Just the springs they are also in the kit, you only get one valve in the kit and the 1-2 valve is the only one I have ever seen stick.

 

I am trying to fix my 1-2 accumulator spring. can I not just buy the stuff for the accumulator body? If I do buy the shift kit i just want it to shift like stock. since this is a shift kit if i just use the stuff for the accumulater body will it make it shift ok? I just want a stock shift feel but i may have to buy that kit just to fix mine because i can't find a stock one

 

The spring is not really the problem, the little valve that the spring controls can stick and cause a harsh 1-2 shift. If this is what is going on with your transmission you can simply clean the valve and its bore and it should shift "stock" again. The shift kit gives you a new valve that is not prone to sticking.

Have you checked for codes? If there are any codes stored the harsh 1-2 shift may be due to high line pressure from the computer in a fail safe mode.

 

I thought the spring is prone to getting broken. Thats where I have read everywhere and I haven't taken mine out yet