Finally installed my tach. I also installed some LED cubes behind the grille.

 

Fixed my drivers mirror, and did some adjusting to my timing. Truck starts easier, runs better, and over-all I am impressed. Now to see if this translates to a few more MPG in the long run.

Probably not, since we all know just how thirsty FE's are.

 

Well this thing sat in pieces for a month and a half, I got it all back together today and had it where I thought it would start. I don't know what happened but I cranked the key and it fired right up like it had been running all day I must know what Im doing, that or lucky. I'll take luck anyday

I ended up using JBA 1 3/4 long tube headers for 64-70 mustangs. It wasn't a bolt in affair by any means but I was able to modify my Z-bar to make it work. The only thing that sucks is the clutch engage/disengage all takes place in the top 1/8 of pedal movement. I might through bolt the clutch fork to gain some more throw on the pedal. IDK yet.

I've only ran it about 5 miles so far, my first impressions are it seems quieter than before and it has more snort for sure and I haven't even leaned on it yet. I left the radiator cap on loose, so the system could burp, when I went for the drive and apparently it was to loose because it decided to jump off about half way through my drive. So now I have a green tinted air filter I'll be up early tomorrow to put my new radiator cap on and take the truck out and about.

 

In the past few weeks since I have not updated:
Fuel pump
Fuel tank sending unit
fuel lines
fuel filter
distributor
MSD coil


That still did not fix the problem so I came to the conclusion that it MUST be the carb. A rather expensive learning curve!


So today a friend of a friend came out with about 6 carbs to try. A 700 double pumper worked very nicely and solved the problem. Mechanical secondary's really drink down the fuel!! Tomorrow a 650 double pumper is being brought over and hopefully is here to stay. Anyone looking to buy an Edelbrock 600 with a bad accelerator pump?

 

It wasn't a bolt in affair by any means but I was able to modify my Z-bar to make it work. The only thing that sucks is the clutch engage/disengage all takes place in the top 1/8 of pedal movement. I might through bolt the clutch fork to gain some more throw on the pedal.

Can you shorten the link rod that goes between the z-bar and fork?

 

I did, its about 1 1/2 long now, lol. I had to move the pivot point back about two to two and a half inches to clear the headers.

 

Holy crap! It must have changed the angle on the top rod quite a bit then. I don't suppose you could lengthen and put a bend in that rod?

 

My thought was if I drill through the clutch fork where the rod normally pivots I could pass the rod through and nut it each side and gain a little more throw toward the bottom of the pedal movement like normal. Ultimately I will go cable clutch and have a 5spd, a worked T5 or TKO. I posted pictures a few posts back of my new bell housing bracket for the z bar.

 

The pivot shaft is now where my thumb is.

 

That should work. Is the clutch really touchy now ( fully engaged or disengaged in a short movement)?

 

Yeah like I say, about 1/8th movement over all. I guess I could cut and straighten the pedal a little to put it closer to the floor. Not really touchy, but way different than what I am used to.

 

37's back on tonight after shock upgrades

 

I had something like that happen too, I cut off the arm on the Z-bar and repositioned it and extended the top rod to gain some movement

 

That's just cool.! I like it.

 

Added cab lights finally!