I recently have had the fan clutch replaced due to a front end collision, I'm on my second new one from the dealer now cause they don't seem to ever release, turning all the time, sort of a loud roar all the time. Fuel milage is down to 13, normally 16. The part number installed is F5TZ-8A616-KB. The OEM fan clutch only engaged when it was really hot and I was towing my boat. The noise is driving me crazy not mention the fuel milage. Any ideas, different brand? This is a Borge Warner they have installed now.

 

It shouldn't be a BW part from the dealer. It should say Ford on it. Those things are going to be loud. Your old one was worn out if you only heard it when it got hot towing a boat. A good one should always turn the fan enough that you hear it and you should really hear it when the radiator gets warm.
I'll bet your AC works good this summer!

If you want a worn out one I probably have on in my closet and I'll trade you. I can use a good spare.

 

X2 what Ranch said, you can hear them. It turns me on XD

 

So do you hear yours all the time, sisce the new fan clutch has been installed the fuel milage is down to 13, it hs always been a solid 16. I have owned the truck since new and don't rember hearing that roar all the time.

 

I hear mine all the time. I have the same one you have though. The Motorcraft clutch doesn't pull near as much air as this one.

You should be getting more mileage than that though and I doubt the clutch is at fault for it. This winter fuel, ULSD winter grade crap, just sucks for mileage, power and performance. Could be something else but this is probably the reason.

 

RRanch, thanks for the response, you are probably correct about the fan, I have ridden in 2 others latley and I don't hear the fan, maybe they are worn out? The noise is new for me so it is bugging me, maybe I'll get used to it

 

I say its the winter mix, my trucks milage has been sucky lately, since I put the 40 bucks worth of winter mix in it. So yeah. I say its the winter mix.

 

I've never changed mine and I don't hear it? I've pulled heavy loads in hot weather and motor stays cool. Now you guys have me wondering about mine. Isn't there a way to test it, like turn it and feel the resistence?

 

Is anyone using the Four Seasons Extreme Duty thermal fan clutch? It appears to be the only aftermarket fan clutch available. I don't mean to beat a dead horse but I'm still not convinced I should hear the fan roaring all the time. The 2 other trucks I've been recently you can not hear the fan both 97's. Just wondering?

 

I have that one on my 97. It's just as loud.
Really, if it's working right you should always hear it to some degree. Your Wife will thank you for it when it's 100 degrees outside and your stuck in traffic. Your ac will work better than the quiet ones.

You could always trade it in for a GM. People have complained so much about noise, vibrations and smells over the years that their trucks are all like cadillacs now. The new Fords are too. Ours are much better built trucks though. Better built AS A TRUCK. It's not a car.

 

Cientific part1:




Disengaged Fan Clutch Requirement Test — Cold <O</O

1. WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.
   
   Using a suitable marker, mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312). <O</O

1. Connect a tachometer to the engine. <O</O

1. Install a throttle adjusting tool. <O</O

1. Connect a Sun Strobe Light or equivalent. This can be an SLT-1 or SLT-2 Strobotach or an STA-1 Strobe Trigger adapter for the Sun Distributor Test Stand. A Digital Photoelectric Tachometer 055-00108 or equivalent can also be used for this test. <O</O

1. Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm until engine temperature has normalized. <O</O

1. Adjust the engine to the testing speed in the Specifications at the end of this section. <O</O

1. Operate the strobe light at water pump test speed and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flashes and the water pump pulley marks are synchronized. <O</O

1. Aim the timing light at the fan retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until it is synchronized with the marked fan retaining bolt (fan appears to stand still). <O</O

1. The fan speed must not be greater than the specified fan test speed at water pump test speed. <O</O

1. Turn the engine OFF. <O</O

1. If the fan speed was greater than the specified fan test speed, check for proper parts usage.
   
   If the correct parts are used, replace the fan clutch.
   
   If the part(s) are not the correct ones, replace the part(s) and perform the test again. <O</O

1. If the Engaged Fan Clutch Requirement Test is going to be performed, do not remove the tachometer, strobe light or throttle adjusting tool. <O</O

1. If an Engaged Fan Clutch Requirement Test is not going to be performed, remove the tachometer, strobe light and throttle adjusting tool. <O</O

<O</O

 

Cientific part 2:
Engaged Speed Fan Clutch Requirement Test <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

1. WARNING: TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE HOOD OPEN UNTIL THE FAN HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.
   
   If the Disengaged Fan Clutch Requirement Test was not performed, follow Steps 1 through 5 under Disengaged Speed Fan Clutch Requirement Test. <o></o>

1. Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed. <o></o>

1. Place the air conditioning selector, if so equipped, in the maximum position and the blower switch in the high position. <o></o>

1. Adjust the strobe light to water pump test speed. <o></o>

1. Start the engine and adjust it until the water pump pulley is synchronized with the strobe light. This will be near the engine testing speed given in Specifications. <o></o>

1. Synchronize the timing light with the fan to fan clutch retaining bolt. <o></o>

1. The fan speed must meet or exceed the specified minimum fan blade test speed at water pump test speed. <o></o>

1. If the fan speed was less than the specified fan test speed, replace the fan clutch. <o></o>

 

Practical test:
FAN CLUTCH TEST
<O</O
Heres how I checked fan clutches when I was a mechanic YEARS ago.

Crank the vehicle. Take a broom and use the bristle end to try and stop the fan. You can stop any of them even with a good clutch so thats not the part your looking for but if it seems like it doesnt want to stop to the point its scaring you then stop there and rest assured the fan clutch is fine.

If it does stop dont count it as bad yet. What you want to see is how fast it spins back up when you pull the broom bristles off of it. If it seems to slowly start spinning again then the clutch is bad. If it starts back to spinning almost instantly its a good clutch. Bad clutches also dont pull on the broom when stopped. Its like its not connected at all.

Also for the record for the flaming Im sure I'll catch from this, you dont just RAM the broom in there either. Use the brush part to slow the fan down till it stopped or refuses to stop easy.

Anyone that comments after this with anything about "id never do this" or thats crazy, etc. Its been used for years by mechanics to test fan clutches and if you have old enough service manuals "pre 80's era" its in there as a test method.<O</O

 

Fan specs for our truck:

 

And at the end:
FAN CLUTCH NUMBERS.
HAYDEN 2835
Napa it is PN TEM273392
O'Reilly, it is PN 2835
FORD:

FAN CLUTCH NUT TORQUE

48mm fan clutch nut. Tighten to 84-113 lb-ft,
pretty hard to get a torque wrench on it though. I just tighten it a much as I can pull the wrenches.... Never had one come off.