Rear End Gearing
#16
#17
The wheel base for an F1 is 114 inches, for an F2+ is 122 inches - from spindle center to axel center (center of the hub caps).
Also, if I'm not mistaken, the "HY" in your serial number says the truck is a 6 cylinder F3! An F2 would have a "D" there (in place of the "Y"). Merc, Stu, yes/no?
Ok so, let me ask you another question. How much space is there between the back fender and the front edge of the back stake pocket?
Also, if I'm not mistaken, the "HY" in your serial number says the truck is a 6 cylinder F3! An F2 would have a "D" there (in place of the "Y"). Merc, Stu, yes/no?
Ok so, let me ask you another question. How much space is there between the back fender and the front edge of the back stake pocket?
#18
Yeah, according to my book an 87HY is a 226 c.i. 6 cyl. F-3. So the 122" wheel base is now established too. Interesting that the p.o. went to the trouble of swapping out both front and rear axles, or at least the front hubs and rear axle. Dino is at least saved the indignity of having to deal with the stock 17" widowmakers. Stu
#19
#20
Okay, still a 3/4 ton. Here is what we have: lug bolt pattern is 5.5 X 5; wheel base 114 inches (measured wrong again!); Short box (~78 inches); proper Vin on frame to match title; F1 chrome piece on side of cab; springs front 1.75 inches by 9 leaves; springs rear 2.0 inches by 10 leaves. 226 inline flathead 6, 4 spd transmission. brake drum rear is 11 inches by 2 inches. Frame ends ~ 2 inches from end of box (bedliner). Thoughts??
Anyway, Thank-you for all the information and your time. Dino
Anyway, Thank-you for all the information and your time. Dino
#21
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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IMHO, from all the information the truck appears to be an F-3 that someone converted to an F-1. It apparently has F-3 front fenders but an F-1 bed and F-1 rear fenders. The front and rear springs are F-1 and the brakes and bolt pattern have been converted to F-1. I would look carefully at the frame just behind the cab for evidence of welding. If this is a converted F-3, eight inches of frame would have had to be removed to shorten it. Also, twelve inches of frame would have had to be cut off the rearmost part of the frame in order to make the F-1 bed fit so look for evidence of cutting there too.
#25
as long as it's one right it's safe. Lots of folks cut, shrink and Z frames. It's only metal. In Pa it's legal bolt on repaired sections of frame. My frame was cut in half and welded together with a plate to allow a gap in the frame. I believe folks did this years back to prevent frames from cracking???
#27
Well, I hadn't realized that you had photo's on your user CP.
The front fenders are F1, the bed is F1, And, everything you describe above are F1 specs including the brakes, wheelbase, springs, and box length. So, this truck has either had an F3 Frame with an entire F1 truck transplanted on it..........or
OR, it's one of our famous trucks where the 3rd grade educated guy stamping the numbers on the frame stamped a "Y" instead of a "C" in the VIN. We've seen this before.
Last thing to check is the F1 has 4 frame cross members, the F2 and F3 have 6 frame cross members.
I think its a mismarked F1! And with the characteristics you described, it's an F1 now (1/2 ton rated) whether it's mismarked or not.
More Specs:
And this is what your rear end should look like if it were cleaned off (somewhat):
This one is on my F1 rear half that I am converting to a trailer! Both this one and the one you have pictured are most definately F1 rear ends. The one Stu has pictured in post #4 is the F2/F3 rear end.
The front fenders are F1, the bed is F1, And, everything you describe above are F1 specs including the brakes, wheelbase, springs, and box length. So, this truck has either had an F3 Frame with an entire F1 truck transplanted on it..........or
OR, it's one of our famous trucks where the 3rd grade educated guy stamping the numbers on the frame stamped a "Y" instead of a "C" in the VIN. We've seen this before.
Last thing to check is the F1 has 4 frame cross members, the F2 and F3 have 6 frame cross members.
I think its a mismarked F1! And with the characteristics you described, it's an F1 now (1/2 ton rated) whether it's mismarked or not.
More Specs:
And this is what your rear end should look like if it were cleaned off (somewhat):
This one is on my F1 rear half that I am converting to a trailer! Both this one and the one you have pictured are most definately F1 rear ends. The one Stu has pictured in post #4 is the F2/F3 rear end.
#29
I'm going to go with Julie's information. I have a valid title that matches the frame VIN. The rear end pictures above are what my rear end looks like (mine is dirtier). I will look very closely at the frame once I get all the body parts off of it. I certainly appreciate everyones advice/information/suggestions and especially their time. Thank-you and I owe you all.
Dino
Dino
#30
Well, the important thing to remember is what it was that made the F2 or F3 capable of carrying a heavier payload than the F1: Bigger wheels, bigger tires, heavier frame and more cross member bracing, bigger bed, bigger brakes and heavier suspension.
It's definately an F3 Serial number, but with all the F1 gear, it's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is going to be limited to F1 capabilities - the half ton realm (or a max GVWR of 4700 lbs).
Here's a comparison you may find interesting about GVW Ratings differences between models.
Important thing is it's a good looking truck that appears to be in pretty good shape - a definate winner! I'm not sure if you were planning on making it a daily driver work truck that needs to haul that kind of weight or not, but if not, you might actually like the compactness and superior ride of the lighter rated truck.
It's definately an F3 Serial number, but with all the F1 gear, it's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is going to be limited to F1 capabilities - the half ton realm (or a max GVWR of 4700 lbs).
Here's a comparison you may find interesting about GVW Ratings differences between models.
Important thing is it's a good looking truck that appears to be in pretty good shape - a definate winner! I'm not sure if you were planning on making it a daily driver work truck that needs to haul that kind of weight or not, but if not, you might actually like the compactness and superior ride of the lighter rated truck.