I went out to adjust my clutch today cause it felt like it needed it. Seemed like the clutch was releasing very close to top. I looked in the factory shop manual for the proper technique just to double check.
So get the truck jacked up and loosen lock nut and bring adjustment nut out some tighten lock nut. Lower truck put in neutral and start truck but now I cant get it into gear. Trying to figure out whats wrong here as there was lots of rod left to to bring the nut out more. I am tempted to try bringing the adjustment nut out more but kind of nervous.
Any ideas or what am I doing wrong? Also when I bought the truck about a year ago he claimed it had a newer clutch and it would seem that way since the adjustment nut was pretty close to the threads closet to the rear of the truck.
It sounds like you made it looser, not tighter. While you're under there, grab the clutch pedal from underneath, and watch how the linkage moves as you "pull" it down. You have to pull the pin out of the clevis, then turn the clevis on the rod, to make a difference; it isn't a turnbuckle (at least on 48-52's).
It is a 53 f100 with the standard 3 speed light duty shifted on the column with the v8 flathead. It says in the manual it its just a adjustment nut and lock nut on a threaded rod for the clutch pedal adjustment.
Hey have a 57 F100 with 3 speed light duty. The clutch slips and angrily engages sometimes, especially at low RPM with too much throttle ( more than 1/4 or so ). Anyone with experience think this is probably a simple adjustment, and if so what would be your guess. I was told by a friend that owns a '55 and '56 that it probably just need the hydraulic fluid level checked or some other minor adjustment.
The pedal has at least a half inch of free play at the top. Sorry Julie meant clutch fluid for the system. Figured it needed a new clutch but was just hoping I could get by with some minor adjustments for now to keep it going. Just another thing to add to the list for the truck.
Most clutches in our era were mechanical linkage, not hydraulic. Unless you have two master cylinders, one on each pedal, there is no fluid in the clutch mechanism.
If you have ~ 1/2" of free play at the top (push on the pedal by hand and see how far it depresses before it begins to get stiff, that's the free play) if you have much more than 1/2" it is adjusted too loose. Sounds to me like a worn out clutch disk or a worn/hardened engine rear main bearing seal leaking oil onto the clutch. Baby that clutch until you can determine the problem and fix it, or you may find yourself having to make an unexpected long walk late at night. Not the way to impress a SO!
I thought '57 - on were hydraulic clutches?? We get a lot of complaints about burst or leaking hoses etc. I "think" I see a clutch master on the firewall in the pictures in his gallery (note to Blue -- cell phone pics won't cut it around here! )
Yah '57 was the first year for hydraulic clutches. The clutch works fine for me I just drive nice and easy and its okay but in the long run it would be nice to be able to give it a little throttle so it can get out of its own way. I don't own a digital camera so cell phone it will be, thats enough technology for me.
well what do ya know learned something today and it didn,t hurt. didnt think hyd clutches started that early. never mind the free play comment. dont know if there is a bleed screw for air in system and dont know directions for bleeding
Does it have an internal hydraulic throwout bearing or a mechanical type TB with a slave cylinder to activate it? Unless you have no free play at all the hydraulics won't make a "juice" clutch slip. Still sounds like a worn or oily clutch disk.