Time to rebuild or do what myself and Dan did. OEM long block from Clay.

 

Deven, I'm really sorry to hear about this development.


As for the "engine failure survey versus mods", I've read through the survey thoroughly and there were too many questions that were not asked, the answers to which would have provided much better context for interpreting the data from the limited set of questions used. Without that additional context, it's easy to misinterpret the limited data from that survey and arrive at wrong conclusions.


The issue of synthetic should not have any role in this situation.

Frist, the synthetic base stocks have higher flash points from the very beginning, and are then refinined at more severe temperatures than conventional petroleum based oils. This severe refining process produces a synthetic product that is extremely tolerant of high temperatures without breaking down and will also not evaporate as quickly as conventional oils (generally observed as needing less topping off between oil changes).

That said, the synthetic oil was probably doing a better job of luricating than a conventional oil would have. This is especially true of a synthetic oil which has an extreme pressure additive (like moly). In particular, moly will actually bond to the metal surfaces and provide a solid lubricant barrier for those times when you have an "impulse load" and the liquid oil barrier is squeezed out of place from the increased pressures between the moving metal surfaces.

Although Shell does not advertise the fact, the Rotella synthetic does have a small amount of moly in its additive package. There are other oils which have higher moly contents and sometimes different forms of moly (soluble, particulate, etc.), but the Rotella would definitely have been providing Deven with more protection than either Delo 400 or even Amsoil.

 

Got some news. Allegedly I over reved it causing a push rod to come in contact with one of the pistons. So in turn I have a bent pushrod. He wants to send the head off to a machine shop to make sure it is fine and put upgraded pushrods and valve springs in it. Does this all sound right to you guys?

 

Along with fixing the broken piston, that sounds like a good idea.

 

Also he said the piston wasn't damaged and I found out I have the forged rods.

 

I'm not following but that can be me. The pushrod came into contact with the piston? How can that happen? Do you mean the valve?

 

Yeah the valve, he said I over reved it and floated the valve I guess.

 

OK, gotcha now. With that being said, usually in those situations, the valve wins that battle. I assume they will pull the head to replace the valve and other R&R stuff. i would be nervous that the piston is somewhat damaged by kissing the valve. Maybe I'm just over-cautious.

 

I am too, he they are going to measure everything out just to make sure there wasn't any damage to the piston and they are sending the head into a machine shop.

 

How many rpms does that take to do that?

 

Good to know it wasnt anything expensive time to look at some comp springs.

 

Not sure how many rpm's it takes. But, they are cleaning up the heads, putting in chromoly push rods, and putting in high performance valve springs.

 

Dev, for what its worth, we are happy nothing more super expensive than that happened. This whole windows 7.3 thing has me nervous. Kinda been driven the rig like its my grandpa's.

 

So it was a bent pushrod?

What about the rod where that happened? Can't that tweak a rod? Might be wise to swap that one out where the contact took place. You might never know it until down the road.

Now that it is out, stick a set of headstuds in there...

 

Thats what mine does also, but I have half the mods you do.