I am getting sick of these plastic chunks of ****!!!
Does anyone know if anyone makes metal interior handles.
I have two trucks that i maintanace on the farm that the handles beak every time i turn around.
I have taken apart the 96 and added bracing to the pivot and spring mechacnism but the 92 is completely stock.
Its always my brothers breaking them and i have told them 100 times to take it easy. But i need to find some metal ones.
If i cannot find any then i will try to fab some up.
is there a lot of resistance when you pull on the handle? I had a guy who broke his tell me that if the handle starts sticking, to pull everything apart, clean it and solicon spray it. It wasn't two months later, mine started sticking. I did what he said, and now couldn't imaging pulling on the handle enough to break it.
I had that problem. I put a spacer on the cable inside the door so that the pull was not as long and then I greased the %#$@@@%% out of all of it. works great. have to regrease periodically but shorter pull is great. less stress on the handle.....
just wondering but how are yall breaking these things. only thing I've broken are the door pad arm rests. im still on the originals.
1991 F-150 ext cab 302 auto E40D 2wd.Gone. But I miss my baby. It's true you never forget your first love!!
1997 F-250 HD 7.3 PSD 4x4 auto. 6637 filter,rebuilt trans, Full 4" Diamond eye exhaust,Kitty ran away,Glowshift gauges.
It's a good thing you guys don't drive newer cars! I feel like my trucks handles (inside and out) are much more sturdy than what they put in new cars nowadays. Granted, I'd be interested in a steel handle just for the looks.
These handles must be among the worst designs I've ever seen. When I bought my 1996 F150 (used, high mileage) the driver's door had one broken, which was replaced by a OEM handle. A week later, the passenger door handle cracked, and I stopped at the dealer to buy a replacement. As I opened the door to go in the parts department, the driver's door handle once again did the St. Louis toodleloo - I wenr in, bought a handle and came out to install it on the driver's door. That evening's task was welding up 2 steel handles, which I installed as raw steel. They have aged to look good, similar to the browned appearance of an antique weapon-and the truly great thing is, they haven't cracked. I still have a very lightly used stock OEM item to install if one ever does... Somehow, I don't think I'll ever need it.
On another door related issue, has anyone any idea on how to remove the driver's side door lock actuator? I haven't seen it as a subject here, but mine has stripped it's gears and should be replaced and I've no idea of the procedure or even where to begin to replace it. Please let me know where to begin to remove it, if you have ever had one fail. Thanks!
No the pull is good so the cable should be good. but like someone said i would love to find a anodized aluminum replacement. and i dont think the ones from 80 to 86 will work. they are sort of triangular if i recall properly.
Im up in canada and break most from the cold(i think) but i probably have gone through 16 or 17 in the last 2 years. that is for the 2 trucks i service.
but i pay like 27 bucks at the dealership so it ads up.
I would pay 100 or 200 bucks for anodized aluminum ones. just for not having to reach for the handle to remember its not there and then roll down the window to open the door.
Other thing i might do is make a iron handle but they are never the same as a cast piece.
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