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How to Troubleshoot and Fix F150 4X4 1997-2003
#93
fixed!
the fast track to this repair job is just buying a replacement lever and swapping it out. t55 torx/star bit, breaker ratchet, 13/16" wrench, pliers, and a flashlight and some yarn. tie the replacement part to the steering wheel with the yarn to keep it suspended, and put the bolts back in.
lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.
bushings found locally.
lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.
bushings found locally.
#95
#96
not too shabby
youll need a #55 torx bit, a ratchet breaker bar, 13/16 wrench, and yarn. also the new part's hole may not line up perfectly - for this youll need to dremel the hole larger towards the rear.
lithium grease would not hurt either. flashlight.
plastic bushings found at local auto parts store.
rip out the boot in the cabin and get under there with a flashlight and swap it out with the tools. use the flashlight. tie the new part with the yarn to the steering wheel.
$100 repair.
#97
frozen
if it's frozen, probably needs to be replaced anyway.
however, i believe it plausible that you could remove the part and rebuild it with lithium grease.
there is a nut on the lever axle that can be removed cleaned and lubed, then put back together, but cannot get to it without removal from vehicle.
horrible luck trying to rebuild it in place.
should be noted that this part is located in close proximity to the exhaust pipes, causing it to heat and expand and then shrink in cold. it seizes because it has melted in place.
best of luck.
however, i believe it plausible that you could remove the part and rebuild it with lithium grease.
there is a nut on the lever axle that can be removed cleaned and lubed, then put back together, but cannot get to it without removal from vehicle.
horrible luck trying to rebuild it in place.
should be noted that this part is located in close proximity to the exhaust pipes, causing it to heat and expand and then shrink in cold. it seizes because it has melted in place.
best of luck.
#98
Fixed it!
the fast track to this repair job is just buying a replacement lever and swapping it out. t55 torx/star bit, breaker ratchet, 13/16" wrench, pliers, and a flashlight and some yarn. tie the replacement part to the steering wheel with the yarn to keep it suspended, and put the bolts back in.
lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.
bushings found locally.
lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.
bushings found locally.
#99
This is a great thread, but I am seeing lots more questions than replies with new info after the initial post. I have a similar problem to what others have posted.
I have a 1997 F150 that I bought with the 4wd not working. The dash light doesn't come on and I don't hear any clicking. I have check all the fuses and they look good.
What actually turns on the indicator light on the dash?
I checked the solenoids under the hood and the left one wasn't clicking, so I replaced it. The new one also doesn't click with key on. It seems like it isn't getting a good power supply although the connector checks 12v.
The motor on the transfer case doesn't seem to be getting power either, so I haven't tried replacing that.
How common is it for the dash switch to go bad?
I have a 1997 F150 that I bought with the 4wd not working. The dash light doesn't come on and I don't hear any clicking. I have check all the fuses and they look good.
What actually turns on the indicator light on the dash?
I checked the solenoids under the hood and the left one wasn't clicking, so I replaced it. The new one also doesn't click with key on. It seems like it isn't getting a good power supply although the connector checks 12v.
The motor on the transfer case doesn't seem to be getting power either, so I haven't tried replacing that.
How common is it for the dash switch to go bad?
#100
Ricky B or others - Hello and thanks for looking - My 2001 4x4 crew cab auto - I believe the truck is staying in 4x4 - I replaced the vacuum actuator on the diff and that made the 4x4 work again - lights on dash work fine - it just feels like the truck stays in 4-w hi - (even though light goes off) it just feels / sounds ( kind of a slightly distinctive hum and feel) that it stays in 4wd ( despite the actuator & diff being disengaged) - what do you think ? bad Transmission Range Sensor Switch or electronic shift motor ? . . . or . . . bad x fer case? - runs and drives fine - whatchya think? thanks
#101
checked 4x4 - all good , so now. . .
Jacked truck up on all fours, checked 4x4 works, engages / disengages fine - not staying stuck in 4 hi like I thought - guess the noise is coming from trans. or rear end - its a low hum reminds me of being in 4 hi while driving - dont know just gonna get transmission guy who has done work for our family in the past to look at it - then move on - thx
#102
Jacked truck up on all fours, checked 4x4 works, engages / disengages fine - not staying stuck in 4 hi like I thought - guess the noise is coming from trans. or rear end - its a low hum reminds me of being in 4 hi while driving - dont know just gonna get transmission guy who has done work for our family in the past to look at it - then move on - thx
#104
And it's ok(safe) to run it like that?
This brings to mind...I read somewhere-maybe the FSM-not to jack the truck up from the rear diff housing. Anyone know why? The service dept. at the dealership where I once worked had a jack that made contact with the rear axle only on the axle housing(tubes) on both sides of the diff housing.
This brings to mind...I read somewhere-maybe the FSM-not to jack the truck up from the rear diff housing. Anyone know why? The service dept. at the dealership where I once worked had a jack that made contact with the rear axle only on the axle housing(tubes) on both sides of the diff housing.