i had the check engine light come on and it is reading too lean and comes up with several different scenarios. i have no clue where to start!!

 

Can anyone tell me what this hose is? it goes to the transfer case next to the vacuum lines?

 

the fast track to this repair job is just buying a replacement lever and swapping it out. t55 torx/star bit, breaker ratchet, 13/16" wrench, pliers, and a flashlight and some yarn. tie the replacement part to the steering wheel with the yarn to keep it suspended, and put the bolts back in.

lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.

bushings found locally.

 

forgot to mention that you may need to dremel the rear hole in the replacement part to get the bolts to line up.

a couple of bits and a power drill, no problem.

 

All of the 4x4 info is great. IF the floor shift lever actually moves. Mine is frozen. Help. 2002 F-150 Xl 4.6l v6 4x4. floor shift for 4x4. this is a Vermont truck so it's rusty.

 

buy a replacement part on ebay and swap it out. $50.

youll need a #55 torx bit, a ratchet breaker bar, 13/16 wrench, and yarn. also the new part's hole may not line up perfectly - for this youll need to dremel the hole larger towards the rear.

lithium grease would not hurt either. flashlight.

plastic bushings found at local auto parts store.

rip out the boot in the cabin and get under there with a flashlight and swap it out with the tools. use the flashlight. tie the new part with the yarn to the steering wheel.

$100 repair.

 

if it's frozen, probably needs to be replaced anyway.

however, i believe it plausible that you could remove the part and rebuild it with lithium grease.

there is a nut on the lever axle that can be removed cleaned and lubed, then put back together, but cannot get to it without removal from vehicle.

horrible luck trying to rebuild it in place.

should be noted that this part is located in close proximity to the exhaust pipes, causing it to heat and expand and then shrink in cold. it seizes because it has melted in place.

best of luck.

 

I had a buddy put it up on the lift while his son was inside to move the lever around. We used a lot of break free and a long solid steel bar and a small sledge hammer to work it loose. It took some muscle and about 30 minutes. Works fine now and the 4x4 also works fine. Thanks for your help though!!

 

This is a great thread, but I am seeing lots more questions than replies with new info after the initial post. I have a similar problem to what others have posted.


I have a 1997 F150 that I bought with the 4wd not working. The dash light doesn't come on and I don't hear any clicking. I have check all the fuses and they look good.


What actually turns on the indicator light on the dash?


I checked the solenoids under the hood and the left one wasn't clicking, so I replaced it. The new one also doesn't click with key on. It seems like it isn't getting a good power supply although the connector checks 12v.


The motor on the transfer case doesn't seem to be getting power either, so I haven't tried replacing that.


How common is it for the dash switch to go bad?

 

Ricky B or others - Hello and thanks for looking - My 2001 4x4 crew cab auto - I believe the truck is staying in 4x4 - I replaced the vacuum actuator on the diff and that made the 4x4 work again - lights on dash work fine - it just feels like the truck stays in 4-w hi - (even though light goes off) it just feels / sounds ( kind of a slightly distinctive hum and feel) that it stays in 4wd ( despite the actuator & diff being disengaged) - what do you think ? bad Transmission Range Sensor Switch or electronic shift motor ? . . . or . . . bad x fer case? - runs and drives fine - whatchya think? thanks

 

Jacked truck up on all fours, checked 4x4 works, engages / disengages fine - not staying stuck in 4 hi like I thought - guess the noise is coming from trans. or rear end - its a low hum reminds me of being in 4 hi while driving - dont know just gonna get transmission guy who has done work for our family in the past to look at it - then move on - thx

 

How did you go about jacking it up with all 4 tires off the ground?

 

A jack and a couple stands is the easiest way.

 

And it's ok(safe) to run it like that?
This brings to mind...I read somewhere-maybe the FSM-not to jack the truck up from the rear diff housing. Anyone know why? The service dept. at the dealership where I once worked had a jack that made contact with the rear axle only on the axle housing(tubes) on both sides of the diff housing.

 

May of been for stability. And yes I have ran mine like that just make sure it is stable