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1997 - 2003 F150 1997-2003 F150, 1997-1999 F250LD, 7700 & 2004 F150 Heritage SPONSORED BY:

     
Old 11-18-2014, 05:52 PM
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  #91  
Old 07-27-2014, 07:25 PM
Mike0421 Mike0421 is offline
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i had the check engine light come on and it is reading too lean and comes up with several different scenarios. i have no clue where to start!!
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  #92  
Old 08-04-2014, 01:37 PM
Stephen Tucker Stephen Tucker is offline
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Can anyone tell me what this hose is? it goes to the transfer case next to the vacuum lines?


Click the image to open in full size.
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  #93  
Old 08-15-2014, 06:12 PM
housekids248 housekids248 is offline
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Talking fixed!

the fast track to this repair job is just buying a replacement lever and swapping it out. t55 torx/star bit, breaker ratchet, 13/16" wrench, pliers, and a flashlight and some yarn. tie the replacement part to the steering wheel with the yarn to keep it suspended, and put the bolts back in.

lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.

bushings found locally.
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  #94  
Old 08-15-2014, 06:17 PM
housekids248 housekids248 is offline
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Smile post script

forgot to mention that you may need to dremel the rear hole in the replacement part to get the bolts to line up.

a couple of bits and a power drill, no problem.
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  #95  
Old 08-30-2014, 11:30 PM
aslbow aslbow is offline
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read all this, still have question!

All of the 4x4 info is great. IF the floor shift lever actually moves. Mine is frozen. Help. 2002 F-150 Xl 4.6l v6 4x4. floor shift for 4x4. this is a Vermont truck so it's rusty.
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  #96  
Old 09-05-2014, 08:35 PM
housekids248 housekids248 is offline
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Thumbs up not too shabby

Quote:
Originally Posted by aslbow View Post
All of the 4x4 info is great. IF the floor shift lever actually moves. Mine is frozen. Help. 2002 F-150 Xl 4.6l v6 4x4. floor shift for 4x4. this is a Vermont truck so it's rusty.
buy a replacement part on ebay and swap it out. $50.

youll need a #55 torx bit, a ratchet breaker bar, 13/16 wrench, and yarn. also the new part's hole may not line up perfectly - for this youll need to dremel the hole larger towards the rear.

lithium grease would not hurt either. flashlight.

plastic bushings found at local auto parts store.

rip out the boot in the cabin and get under there with a flashlight and swap it out with the tools. use the flashlight. tie the new part with the yarn to the steering wheel.

$100 repair.
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  #97  
Old 09-05-2014, 08:43 PM
housekids248 housekids248 is offline
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Talking frozen

if it's frozen, probably needs to be replaced anyway.

however, i believe it plausible that you could remove the part and rebuild it with lithium grease.

there is a nut on the lever axle that can be removed cleaned and lubed, then put back together, but cannot get to it without removal from vehicle.

horrible luck trying to rebuild it in place.

should be noted that this part is located in close proximity to the exhaust pipes, causing it to heat and expand and then shrink in cold. it seizes because it has melted in place.

best of luck.
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  #98  
Old 09-05-2014, 09:00 PM
aslbow aslbow is offline
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Fixed it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by housekids248 View Post
the fast track to this repair job is just buying a replacement lever and swapping it out. t55 torx/star bit, breaker ratchet, 13/16" wrench, pliers, and a flashlight and some yarn. tie the replacement part to the steering wheel with the yarn to keep it suspended, and put the bolts back in.

lithium spray grease gets that lever working like butter.

bushings found locally.
I had a buddy put it up on the lift while his son was inside to move the lever around. We used a lot of break free and a long solid steel bar and a small sledge hammer to work it loose. It took some muscle and about 30 minutes. Works fine now and the 4x4 also works fine. Thanks for your help though!!
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  #99  
Old 09-09-2014, 09:43 PM
baileyj76 baileyj76 is offline
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This is a great thread, but I am seeing lots more questions than replies with new info after the initial post. I have a similar problem to what others have posted.


I have a 1997 F150 that I bought with the 4wd not working. The dash light doesn't come on and I don't hear any clicking. I have check all the fuses and they look good.


What actually turns on the indicator light on the dash?


I checked the solenoids under the hood and the left one wasn't clicking, so I replaced it. The new one also doesn't click with key on. It seems like it isn't getting a good power supply although the connector checks 12v.


The motor on the transfer case doesn't seem to be getting power either, so I haven't tried replacing that.


How common is it for the dash switch to go bad?
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  #100  
Old 10-07-2014, 04:38 PM
medicbran100 medicbran100 is offline
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Ricky B or others - Hello and thanks for looking - My 2001 4x4 crew cab auto - I believe the truck is staying in 4x4 - I replaced the vacuum actuator on the diff and that made the 4x4 work again - lights on dash work fine - it just feels like the truck stays in 4-w hi - (even though light goes off) it just feels / sounds ( kind of a slightly distinctive hum and feel) that it stays in 4wd ( despite the actuator & diff being disengaged) - what do you think ? bad Transmission Range Sensor Switch or electronic shift motor ? . . . or . . . bad x fer case? - runs and drives fine - whatchya think? thanks
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  #101  
Old 10-08-2014, 01:15 PM
medicbran100 medicbran100 is offline
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checked 4x4 - all good , so now. . .

Jacked truck up on all fours, checked 4x4 works, engages / disengages fine - not staying stuck in 4 hi like I thought - guess the noise is coming from trans. or rear end - its a low hum reminds me of being in 4 hi while driving - dont know just gonna get transmission guy who has done work for our family in the past to look at it - then move on - thx
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  #102  
Old 11-02-2014, 01:11 AM
FordTruckChuck FordTruckChuck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medicbran100 View Post
Jacked truck up on all fours, checked 4x4 works, engages / disengages fine - not staying stuck in 4 hi like I thought - guess the noise is coming from trans. or rear end - its a low hum reminds me of being in 4 hi while driving - dont know just gonna get transmission guy who has done work for our family in the past to look at it - then move on - thx
How did you go about jacking it up with all 4 tires off the ground?
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  #103  
Old 11-02-2014, 07:26 AM
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77mud 77mud is offline
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A jack and a couple stands is the easiest way.
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95 F350 CCDRW 7.3PSD HD Torque convertor Hayden trans cooler, shift kit. 6637 filter kit
97 F-150 4.6 4x4 manual trans case flow master's
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88 Comanche 4.0 HO engine few little tweeks on 35's
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  #104  
Old 11-03-2014, 01:29 AM
FordTruckChuck FordTruckChuck is offline
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And it's ok(safe) to run it like that?
This brings to mind...I read somewhere-maybe the FSM-not to jack the truck up from the rear diff housing. Anyone know why? The service dept. at the dealership where I once worked had a jack that made contact with the rear axle only on the axle housing(tubes) on both sides of the diff housing.
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  #105  
Old 11-03-2014, 08:38 AM
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May of been for stability. And yes I have ran mine like that just make sure it is stable
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95 F350 CCDRW 7.3PSD HD Torque convertor Hayden trans cooler, shift kit. 6637 filter kit
97 F-150 4.6 4x4 manual trans case flow master's
77 F-150 BBF c6 205 9" rear 44 front 5.13's 38.5x15 Boggers rear 38.5x11.00 Boggers front
88 Comanche 4.0 HO engine few little tweeks on 35's
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Old 11-03-2014, 08:38 AM
 
 
 
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