shouldn't i be able to shift into 4wd manually with the actuator disconnected by moving the lever back and forth? it seems to me that it's just not moving far enough, about 1", it's not sticky at all. solenoids are good and actuator works. i'am wondering if the fork inside transfer case is bent or broken.
I have a 1997 f150 4.6l AT, manual TC(on the floor) that wont lock in. The 4x4 dash light comes on when I start the truck but not when i shift into 4x4. The low light comes on when I shift to 4x4 low. The front driveshaft spins. I changed the switch on the front of the tansfer case already. Did not solve the problem. I'm going to put a posi-lock on it but would like the lights to come on. I have vaccum at on the bottom hoses that go to the front differential. I don't hear any clicking when shifting the TC. Any ideas? Thanks
I got my problem fixed. Just needed to spray some weasel **** on the front axle vacuum acuator motor. I moved it through the motions and got it to lock in like it's supposed to. Still no 4x4 light... but I'll live with it.
Hi, great reading all these posts. I have a 2000 f150 Lariat 4x4. After reading some posts and doing some tests it looks like the problem with my 4wheel drive not working is the shift fork. My question is, do I need just the fork or the whole kit?
revytrucks, thanks for the post. Helps a great deal. i have the same issue as jackpinner and that is my 4 wheel will engage in high or low range but when I shift back to 2 high it does not disengage. I turn the truck off and for awhile then restart and it is back in 2 high. The question is how do I know that the front hubs are not engaged because it seems fine. I am planning to get to the dealer to purchase the range sensor but can't replace it today. I don't want to harm the truck. Thanks again!
Hey guys so I have narrowed it down to it being my shift fork in the front differential, but I cant seem to find anywhere they describe on how to take the differential apart to get to the shift fork if anyone knows how or can send me to a thread that has it, that would be awesome!
Hi my friends
Thanks for the great info
I have a 1998 xlt truck
4x4 dont work, no dash lights, no clicks
I check the transfer case motor is ok but no electricity when I turn the 4x4 switch (test 12v direct and works)
Check Actuator and is fine
I try with other gem module (not exactly the same part number) and no difference.
I really apreciate your help
No error codes in the scan........
Local dealer said...... "I Don´t know"........
I looked at my 4x4 front actuator, the vacuum moves long and easy , i tried moving the arm with a long screw driver and wouldn't budge(in 4x4hi) dose the front actuator engage the 4x4 hi and 2x4 or dose the motor on the transfer case?
I am posting this because it took me AGES to find this information and peice it together from many sources all over the internet. From a girl who knew NOTHING about these systems a few weeks ago - here is a quick and easy guide to troubleshooting your 4X4 problems -- mostly for Manual shift on the floor (MSOF) systems or what goes on mechanically after you press the button on the electronic systems. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set.
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem "The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!>> They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as: Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position) Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!
I do have to add one thing I own a 03 ford f-150 fx4 that I got for my 16th birthday but I do have to say I am only still 16 I'm not an expert but I have worked on problem after problem trying to get if running to my standards. If your rubber vacuum hoses are old and when you rub them your hand comes off black from the hose then replace them cause the smallest vacuum leak will prevent your actuator from locking in properly. But that is not my current problem.... Inside the actuator are metal diaphragms like you said but, I figured out that mine were rusted to dust inside of mine... I found this out the hard way when it was to late down in a mud hole. I have to manually pushin in and lock in my 4x4 and thankfully got out. But anyways I noticed that it sounded like dirt and trash was inside the black plastic piece of actuator when I manually pushed it in so when I got home I took the cover off and after a hour trying to get it off my truck I took it apart an my diagram floated away in the wind and that will cause a problem with your 4x4 locking in also haha... I promise!
Need help I have a 03 screw fx4 f150, was out playing around ad the 4x4 kicked out and won't come back on, light comes on hear a click and then nothing, I crawl underneath and I saw two lines which looked to be vacuum lines not connected to anything and I saw a little switch like gizmo that moves side to side, is that the actuator for the front diff? Thanks
Yes Adam. The small round thing with the place to plug your vacuum lines into is your actuator for your front differential.
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