Thanks for the troubleshooting guide. i didnt take long to find that my 4wd solenoid was damaged (there was a large crack on the back of the part). the replacement has a plastic housing around the solenoid, which i suspect was added by ford in the newer models to prevent rain water from getting to the solenoid (plastic part also). In fact, as i was changing the solenoid (in light rain), water was constantly dripping on the new housing from truck body. Thanks again
My 4X4 problem is a bit different... I have a 2003 F-150 5.4l XLT with electronic shift-on-the-fly 4X4. I had issues with the truck not going in/out of 4X4 but that's been rectified a few years ago by replacing the solenoids.
My issue is that when the truck is in 4X4 and I turn to the left or right the front wheels grab and lock up/skid. I'm not talking a really tight turn, anything smaller than the radius you'd cover turning left at an intersection will cause the wheels to grab/scuff. I'm by no means a mechanic so please go easy on me LOL!
I've been working on my 97 4x4 all day, well this morning anyway, now I have other issues, and the front drive isn't fixed yet either. But I just wanted to say that your explanation about how to trouble shoot the front axle issue, if I ever get to it, was really an eye opener, wonder if I can get the Wife to help with the lever shifting part of it? Lol Gotta solve the charging issue and get it running again first, from what I've read that's a totally different animal, not getting very far with that either.
Hi all just a quick question my 2001 f150 has the4.2l v6 but it has a dead cylinder if I was to come across a 97 mustang with the 3.8l v6 would it work for my truck if I was to use my intake manifold and accessories? Thanks in advance for any help.
I have changed the nodes on the firewall and the actuator on the front diff I'm not sure the four wheel drive works still. All the lights come on and when I I put it in four wheel I here clicking but I have replaced the plastic vacuum lines so is there a way to adjust the linkage?
Stuck in 4x4, dash lights on, new TRS switch didn't help
I am back under my 98 F250 Ford Extended Cab again. It has the 4.6 liter eng with about 50?g miles on the rebuild. The transmission was rebuilt after 46 g last month. Now, after pulling a stump out, I am stuck in 4 wheel drive.
I switched the vacuum lines on the diaphragm and it disengages the lever but the lights on the dash indicate I'm still in 4x4L. I did all the foot on the brake, in neutral, back up, go forward many times and still have problem. I changed one of the solenoids last year after reading this thread and vacuum problems were mostly solved. Fuses look good, checked them all and replaced 10a number 1 under the hood.
I just installed a new Transmission Range Sensor Switch for $70ish but no good outcome. This TRS switch doesn't look like the one pictured on the forum. The one I bought is a black box that fits on the shift lever. Did I buy the wrong thing? On the box it says Switch Commutateur Interruptor (that's the way it's spelled) S26083 or NS40241.
Do you think I have a GEM problem? Is there any indication I may have a shift motor problem?
Thanks for your time and your suggestions..
I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4L, I have already changed both front hubs, the engage and disengage hub locking solenoids but continue to get a horrendous noise over 20 coming from under the truck. I was thinking it might be the transfer case but can't tell. The actuator engages and disengages, the front drive shaft only turns while in 4x4 but both CV Axles (half shafts) turn at all times.
I checked the voltage at both solenoids and both have voltage, I only noticed suction at the vacuum lines, no blowing for the disengage
After reading this thread, I am not seeing the same symptoms I have. I have ESOF and my issue comes and goes. The lights on the dash do not come on when I shift to 4hi or 4low, and there is no noise or indication that anything happens. I also lose my dome light and power windows when this occurs and I am 100% sure that they are related. When everything works, it works correctly. Any advice is appreciated.
I have a slightly different issue. My truck is a 99 expedition with the 5.4. I have the electirc shift on the fly. It reads A4WD, 4H, and 4L. Everything seems to work fine, I get all of my lights, I can hear it click into 4L, it even changes the gearing as it is supposed to. All good and dandy. Well, when I am in A4WD the front end will sometimes make a horrendous noise. When it does this it acts like I have it locked into 4H as when I turn it bucks and jerks. It does not do it all the time though. I thought maybe my axle shift actuator might be bad so I looked for it on the axle to see if I could tell what position it was in. It is not there. I have nothing on the front of my axle like the rest of you. Is this something to do with the A4WD? If so that sucks. How does it lock in the front end?
Not a good picture as I did not remove the plastic cover. Anyone know why my truck is like this?
Also, this is the tag on the front axle. Not sure if it would help anyone out or not.
I am posting this because it took me AGES to find this information and peice it together from many sources all over the internet. From a girl who knew NOTHING about these systems a few weeks ago - here is a quick and easy guide to troubleshooting your 4X4 problems -- mostly for Manual shift on the floor (MSOF) systems or what goes on mechanically after you press the button on the electronic systems. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set.
The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. It also causes a relay to ground one of two solenoids that cause vacuum lines to activate an actuator which engages the front differential. If either of these do not work, your 4X4 won't work.
In my case, ad most that I have read, the 4X4 simply does not engage and the dash light either always goes on or does not go on.
1. Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. If the front drive shaft is turning, your transfer case is fine and engaged.
2. Check the fuse! #23 by the hood lever and parking brake under the front dash.
3. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. The solenoids are located in the passenger side of the engine compartment directly behind the battery on the firewall.
From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
<i>"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!<o></o</i> They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.
The latest designs are listed as: Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position) Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).
3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)
4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.
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If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?
If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA
Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!
I KNOW THIS IS AN OLD POST, HOWEVER IT FOUND IT VERY INFORMATIVE AND STRAIGHT TO THE POINT! HOWEVER, AFTER CHECKING EVERYTHING, I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM: FRONT 4WD IS NOT ENGAGING. HERE IS WHAT I HAVE CHECKED: 1) FUSE #23 IS GOOD. 2) 4X4 & LOW RANGE LIGHT COMES ON AND I CAN HEAR THE CLICKING BEHIND THE DASHBOARD. 3) WHEN "ENGAGED," THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT TURNS (SO I KNOW MY TRANSFER CASE AND TRANSFER CASE SWITCH IS WORKING), 4) BOTH SOLENOIDS IS WORKING (CAN HEAR AND FEEL THE CLICKING AFTER TURNING ON AND OFF THE 4X4; ALTHOUGH I WAS NOT ABLE TO CHECK THE VOLTAGE DUE TO NOT HAVING RIGHT TOOL). 5) CHECK BOTH VACUUM HOSES FOR ANY WEAR/TEAR BUT FOUND NO LEAKS, 6) BOTH VACUUM HOSES HAVE EQUAL SUCTION AT THE VACUUM ACTUATOR. 7) THE VACUUM ACTUATOR IS WORKING FINE AND DIAPHRAGM MOVES SMOOTHLY (I TRIED MOVING THE LEVER WITH HAND AND THEN BACK IN; WORKS FINE). 8) AND THE SHIFT FORK IS NOT BENT.
IN YOUR POST YOU ALSO RECOMMENDED THAT IT MIGHT BE AN ISSUE WITH FRONT DIFFERENTIAL, HOWEVER WHEN TURNING STEERING WHEEL THERE IS NO NOISES OR RACKING AS SUCH . I HAVE A 4X4 MECHANIC IN TOWN WHO I WENT BY FOR MORE ADVICE, HOWEVER AFTER EXPLAINING THE STEPS THAT YOU PROVIDED THEY ARE ADVISING ME THAT IT MIGHT BE AN ISSUE WITH THE TRANSFER CASE. MY RESPONSE WAS THAT MY FRONT DRIVESHAFT WAS TURNING SO IT COULDNT BE THE TRANSFER CASE. SO THEY RECOMMENDED THAT I TAKE IT IN ON MONDAY (JULY 22, 2013) SO THAT THEY CAN GIVE MY TRUCK AN "GENERAL 4X4 CHECK UP" (AT NO COST, HOWEVER IF WILL CHARGE $150 IF THEY NEED TO DROP THE TRANSFER CASE )
PLEASE PLEASE PPPPPPLEAASE HELP ME . IVE SEARCHING MANY FORUMS, HOWEVER FOUND YOURS TO BEST EXPLAIN HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT.
ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS OR ADVICE? ANY WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!