they are custom CNC machined pieces dude. we don't have the gasser luxury where companies make gobs of these parts and so they are cheaper. i will GAURANTEE if wipe out was to find a cheaper way to build them(say use forged roller rockers) then it would be reasonable to sell them for around $300-350 and A LOT of ppl would buy them. only bad thing is that due to the way our heads our build and everything else our valve clearance from the factory is MINIMAL at best so any increase in valve movement will put you in a lot of danger so an increase in rocker ratio would need flycut pistons to make sure your not in danger of contact. mahle pistons for us aren't bad. i think they are under $1000 and can have them cut with valve reliefs(.050 or more is what mine will be) and shave the bowls to allow more timing to be run with out blowing it up. so with all that said our engines basically can't run a larger than stock cam(there is a .5 stage cam that we can run stock, but i wouldn't), higher ratio rockers, etc due to the poor valve clearancing, but once that issue is taken care of then it's fair game. there are many people that get valve to piston contact with stock cam and valvetrain. my buddy's SD use to do it pretty bad.

There are many parts that costs us well over $1000 when it should cost us conciderably less, but due to the lack of demand prices stay way over inflated so the businesses can continue to do what they do. if they offered the parts for what they should cost they would go out of business is probably the logic behind that, but in reality MANY people want their parts, but can't afford to spend that on them so a price drop on many items such as rods, rockers, etc would get MANY more people buying those parts since they can now afford to do so. thats just my thoughts on stupid powerstroke costs in the aftermarket. sorry for the rant guys. LoL

 

So I know that the Diesel Innovations pushrods would be best...

my question is, how much power can stock pushrods hold? I'm looking for about 400hp eventually. My stock pushrods have 172k on them and are just now acting up, as far as I know.

Also, what do you need to change them out? Just basic tools and a torque wrench? Also what torque specs?

Just have to pull the valve covers and rocker arms right?

 

i dont think its a horepower thing with pushrods, just a hugh RPM thing is what will get you.

 

So just to be safe I should probably get the chromoly pushrods... I guess that wouldn't be the stupidest thing I've spend $200 on...

I really hope that it really is a bent pushrod making that popping sound... it's coming from the intake/6637 filter. Not all the time, just maybe 3 times a week.

 

most likley it is, if it was a bad valve then it would problably do it more consistantly. a slightly bent rod i can see doing it inconsistently

 

Ok, sounds good.

 

Did you see the pics i posted of the DI rods Brownie??? i posted 'em up several weeks ago. you will be quite impressed with them i'm sure. the torque spec for the rocker arms are 20 ft lbs... inspect your rocker arms real good. our rocker arms suck and like to crack.

 

Hmmm, I wonder about this! I had an issue prior to pulling mine into the shop to remove the engine for the swap. I went to fire it up, and it had a bad GPR, which I replaced, but I am also guessing the GPs themselves are bad. Anyways, I got a backfire out the intake with a flame. Another thing to check!

 

I have a question about this pushrod talk: Rideracelivemx7 commented that revving over 3K could bend pushrods. How likely is that to happen? Once in a while on here folks will give troubleshooting advice that includes revving at WOT, which will take it over 3K for sure. When towing I've revved over that to get her moving in 1st and 2nd gear and it doesn't seem to bother it a bit. Gassers rev to twice that high and I'm sure our pushrods are at least as beefy as a gasser's, so under what conditions can they bend over 3K or is there really not much to worry about?

Thanks for any input.

 

I'm not sure if I saw that one... you have the link to it?

 

the thing is probably how quick it revs. i have revved the SH** out of my truck(accidentally seen 4k+ twice free rev) and when i run it on the drag strip it sees over 3k every shift(about 3500 RPM). i now have the big DI rods, but when i pulled my stock pushrods out none of them were bent. sometimes they will bend b/c of piston to valve contact which can happen quite easily on these trucks as the stock valve clearance is not very much at all. so if a valve spring is weak then it will allow the valves to touch when you rev it that high. this will hurt the valvetrain in some way most likely. this is what i'm worried about on Brownie's truck. may need to look into some comp 910 springs if his are weak. my stock springs have 308k miles on them though so it's really hard to judge whether or not the springs are weak. my buddy's SD used to do it pretty bad and it only had 220k miles on the stock springs. his would bend pushrods too. ended up having to replace 3 pushrods IIRC. when he cracked the block we found that most of the valves were hitting b/c we could see the print on top of the pistons where the valves were hitting. something else to look into while doing pushrods... comp 910s. they are around $100 at summit and i think they are 910-16 or something for the part number. might need to search to verify that number though.

here are the pics for you. you might look into upgrading your springs while your in there if you think your having a problem bending pushrods. if you pull the VC's and see no bent pushrods then you may have a valve not sealing too. i would personally take a look at everything first so you know whether or not you have a bent pushrod unless you don't mind getting the pushrods and springs also. they are pretty nice and definitely a good addition if you plan to use an aftermarket turbo later down the road.

 

cool, thanks travis